Henrik

iTrader: (5)

as per title, any ideas how to get this sucker off?

it’s the bolt that holds in both the bottom arms.

Henrik

iTrader: (5)

Both sides are cut off, because the bushes had rusted themselves to the bolt. I've soaked it in wd40 a bunch of times already, and whacked it with a hammer and punch, but it's not moving at the moment.

Problem is as well that the hub is difficult to hold in the vice - I would love to whack it with a proper sledge hammer, but not sure i can actually hold it well enough in the vice...

I could buy a new used hub, I guess, but I'd rather use this one as it's the original to the car etc etc.

Should I try drilling it out next? Feels like a time consuming task, but needs must... Also considering the bolt in two in the middle, so that I'm only fighting one bit of rust at a time, rather than both sides.

NOSSY_89

Looks like you've tried the things I was going to suggest that leaves only heat now.

Henrik

iTrader: (5)

Yeah I think you're right... I've been wanting to buy a torch for a long time anyway, maybe it's time I take the plunge...

NOSSY_89

Really can't stress this enough, gloves, thick gloves the rigger type or even fire resistant. I normally use rigger gloves . If you can feel the heat through your gloves it is getting hot, stop and take a moment to cool down.

joey_turbo

iTrader: (26)

Did you take it off to do a wheel bearing?

Henrik

iTrader: (5)

no, just doing a bit of a rear end refresh, and it’s gotten out of hand 😂

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

I love these lateral arm bolts, almost as bad as the upper balljoint bolts on Audi A4/6/7/8s : I've wrapped them in rags soaked in diesel over a weekend and they were still solid. Lots of heat with blows around the bush from a lump hammer and a heavy dolly on the opposite side (the dolly redirects the shock back into bush...also good for splitting ball joints, can use another lump hammer if you want). The shock on the bush housing helps break the bond. Last one I did was on a T30 X-trail, same rear lower arm design as a scoob with that same **** of a long bolt that rusts in place...but I didn't cut off the nut so I still had something to turn!

RockyRoad

MAP torch and a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone works for me but I try to keep the bolt intact so I can twist it with a big breaker bar. It’s probably going to quite a fight with it cut flush. Getting a cheap air hammer if you have a compressor could help out.

If you’re going to use heat you’ll ruin the bearing so you might as well remove the backplate to help get a better hold of the knuckle in a vice.

Russell38

Henrik

iTrader: (5)

Me again.. I’ve removed the spindle from the hub, and the bolts holding the backing plate on, but the backing plate is stuck still.

im assuming that it’s just a matter of pressing : beating it off, but thought I’d check here first before I clout it and bend it..

basically as far as I can tell, all bolts are undone here:





both the hub and plate are available to purchase separately, so I’m thinking it’s just rusted together?

RockyRoad

A few sharp taps with a hammer should break the seal between them.

Henrik

iTrader: (5)

just needed to go medieval on its a** and drill the core out on both sides, and then whack it with a bigger hammer (lots and lots of times).

it was only stuck on one side in the end, but it fought valiantly to the very last mm.



the weapons of choice

hedgecutter

iTrader: (5)

Well done