gauges
Hi all,
Finally bought a 3 gauge pod, which I am going to have boost gauge and oil temp gauge!
Two questions:
1) What 3rd gauge should I go for?
2) how much bar do I need on boost gauge?
Thanks
Finally bought a 3 gauge pod, which I am going to have boost gauge and oil temp gauge!
Two questions:

1) What 3rd gauge should I go for?
2) how much bar do I need on boost gauge?
Thanks
I would say oil pressure also, since a lot of subaru's engines have failed due to oil pump bearings etc failing and not providing enough oil to pistons etc.
Having an oil pressure gauge will give you that all important warning if things are on their way out!
Reminds me, i must get around to fitting mine soon been sat in the garage for too long!
Rob
Having an oil pressure gauge will give you that all important warning if things are on their way out!
Reminds me, i must get around to fitting mine soon been sat in the garage for too long!
Rob
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Id never have gauges in my car again. You start to get paranoid in the end
You start the famous gauge watching. I didnt drive my car for a month due to low oil pressure,then i found it was a faulty sender unit
Go for top quality gauges if your getting them
You start the famous gauge watching. I didnt drive my car for a month due to low oil pressure,then i found it was a faulty sender unit
Go for top quality gauges if your getting them18 June 1815 - Waterloo
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A faulty sender is cheaper than an engine.
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18 June 1815 - Waterloo
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From: Llanelli with a spanner in my hand!
You should fit a water temp gauge, and oil pressure. Water heats quicker than oil and will tell you earlier if something has gone wrong with the heads, cooling system, etc.
By all accounts mate the Water gauge is crap and sits basically at mid range, as its not that sensitive a proper gauge will save you before the standard one notices anything is wrong.
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What he said ^^^
The factory gauge is 'dumbed' down, the needle will sit at the half way point for a wide temperature range. Only when the water temp hits the higher end of this range will the needle start to go up.
By the time it creeps up high enough for you to worry, it could be too late and damage may have already been done.
The factory gauge is 'dumbed' down, the needle will sit at the half way point for a wide temperature range. Only when the water temp hits the higher end of this range will the needle start to go up.
By the time it creeps up high enough for you to worry, it could be too late and damage may have already been done.
It's not the water temp gauge which is at fault, it's the sender unit - rather than give true readings it's been designed to give readings in 3-4 stages. If we could find a sender unit that gave accurate readings then there would be no need to fit an aftermarket water temp gauge.
Apparently the general public don't like gauges that give too much variation as they can't cope with gauges that go up and down too much.
And I'm fitting a Defi water temp gauge soon.
Apparently the general public don't like gauges that give too much variation as they can't cope with gauges that go up and down too much.
And I'm fitting a Defi water temp gauge soon.
Waste of time, the 3/4 gauges you should have are
Boost Pressure
Oil Temperature
Oil Pressure
Coolant Temperature
Only after these have been fitted would I look at air intake temperature, fuel pressure, exhaust gas temperature or any other gauge.
Boost Pressure
Oil Temperature
Oil Pressure
Coolant Temperature
Only after these have been fitted would I look at air intake temperature, fuel pressure, exhaust gas temperature or any other gauge.
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2 bar should be good 