RayC

Hi all

i'm looking at two subaru impreza's this weekend one 98 S with 75k and 99 T with 80K both the same price and both at same dealer, 99T has dump valve and SS exhaust both same colour bot saloons

can anyone impart some wisdom on any differences in 1 year and 5k plus the modifications and what i should look out for on cars that age both are UK cars

many thanks

ray

Gutmann pug

I would suggest you drive both cars, check service history, take a good look at the current owner, how long has he had the car? Check all details and buy whichever is the cleanest, best, smoothest ride.......

When choosing between two cars of that age alot of the time its down to instinct.

Oh and dont be afraid to walk away from both

corradoboy

I'd be wary of the one with the chav valve It's well known that a vta dv does sweet fa for performance so the only reason to fit one is to look like a tit. Did he drive it like a tit too ? Of course, the other may have had a chav valve too at some point, but the previous owner may have had a bit more sense and removed it.

HOWY

does it really make good financial sense to buy any car that age/mileage?

Jamescsti

Neither are massive milage for the ages, don't see how tha's a problem personally,

depends on the price

The Trooper 1815

iTrader: (31)

The "T" plate is a better spec car it's the revised 99-00 MY model. Newer front end and some bits and bobs. www.sidc.co.uk FAQ's is a good guide to the differences.

Regards

1998

1998 saw a major overhaul of the interior, with the introduction of a new dashboard, taken from the Forester, featuring white dials, a computerised odometer and a low fuel light. Other improvements include a passenger airbag, Momo leather steering wheel, leather covered handbrake lever and a shorter throw gear lever. ICE equipment remained the same but the apertures and grills (and reportedly wiring) for the "tweeter kit" is supplied as standard. Revised inner door panels and centre console that includes the current trend for putting cup holders in cars, completes the changes. The only external changes are the 16 inch alloys on 205/50 VR16 Bridgestone Potenza tyres now fitted as standard to the Turbo model.

1999

The 1999 car continues the trend of fitting parts from the Japanese STi cars, including the front seats (although with a bit more padding) including height adjustment for the drivers seat; 4-pot front brake calipers and vented rear discs; and the high rear wing. Suspension, in line with STis, is now considerably firmer.
The front bumper has been slightly modified, being a little deeper and with just one vane (instead of two) and a naff orange plastic wedge outside the fog lights. The bumper now passes a 5 mph impact test. The fog lights and headlights have multifaceted reflectors and clear lenses.
The engine is a "Phase 2" boxer incorporating some changes to the head, and claimed power output is 7 bhp higher at 215 bhp (although torque stays the same).
Inside, the car benefits from cup holders and a slightly different Momo steering wheel. The car is at last fitted with a Thatcham "Category 1" alarm and immobiliser.
The price has risen by a very reasonable (in view of the changes) £1200, now taking the car over the £20,000 mark.

2000

The 2000 car added some minor but welcome changes to the 1999 model, following the theme of contunual development.
The most obvious changes are the wheel design. Out went the much loved curved 5 spoke design, to be replaced with a 6 slender spoke design. Opinions on the new wheel style are generally mixed, but more owners prefer the older 5 spoke design to the newer one.
Other changes include colour coded mirrors and door handles, adjustable intermittent wiper speeds, remote central locking (was already fitted prior to delivery for UK cars with the alarm system), a metallic fascia, map reading lights and a new gear ****.
The very popular Dark Blue Mica colour was replaced by a slightly lighted Deep Blue Mica, and a new Red Mica Metallic colour was added to the range.
The Impreza has been in the same basic form for nearly 8 years now, and a completely new model is expected for the 2001 model year.

RayC

HOWY


i am questioning the price but just cant find anything thats not an import with the mileage in the ball park

does anyone know what sort of problems i will be facing, i want it as a daily driver for a coulple of years, both are at a dealer who has done cam belts and major service, i am more wary of the dump valve car to be honest

thanks all any input is appreciated

~Ray

RayC

I can make out in the pictures the differences on bumpers and colour coding, typically the one with the chav bits is the newer model!!

hedgehog

The better brakes etc. on the 99 car are certainly worth having but as others have said i'd be very careful of any modified car, specially with a dump valve. I believe there was some discussion that there was a possibility that a dump to atmosphere dump valve could actually allow the turbo to spin backwards under certain circumstances and that it usually resulted in a reduction in performance.

So, it looks like a tricky one to balance up and in the end it is a case of getting a feel for both cars and seeing which one feels right. It must be said that the MY99 car is probably the best UK Subaru in terms of driving fun, lots more fun that the 03STi i had for example, so it will put a smile on your face.

The other thing i would say is don't raid the bank to buy it, keep a goodly sum of cash in reserve to pay for repairs etc. as you just can't keep one for the same cost as a Ford.

simo

How much are they up for Ray? There are usually a lot of good cars on here & it is a buyers market. Re 98/99 model, def worth getting a 99 if you can just for the brakes / revised front end. Has either got air as that was a 1.5k option at the time?

Re the 'Chav' bits. You can soon remove the dump valve & swap for a standard one (there are plenty on here who would like a load DV, just post in the Essex threads ) & the SS exhaust, if it is a good make it will be fine depending on your noise/looks taste (just check with your insurer before buying) but again you could prob swap for a oe one with cash back to you.

hoskib

iTrader: (1)

other than maybe a clutch going at that sort of mileage i can't see why you'd have any probs with a FSH scoob. if it fits your budget, go for it.

why all the frowning at the one with a dump valve? doesn't make the driver any worse than one without it. everyone drives these cars hard and they're a bloody liar if thet say they don't. you can only hope it's been driven hard with respect and TBH you're not going to find this out unless you know the prev. owner.

same for the exhaust, short of needing a centre cat pipe for MOT (if it's got decat downpipe) again what's the problem? if it's in your plans for the car it's saved you a few hundred quid and if you don't like it get a std one off ebay for about fifty quid and sell the SS for big profit.

personally i'd be going for the 99 model as it's got more going for it (brakes,suspension,taller spoiler etc) and i don't imagine the prices are wildly different.

if you do get the 99 and want shot of the D/valve i've got a spare std one you can have for a tenner delivered

RayC

Hi all thanks for input,in response to Q's bot cars are same price at £5995 from same dealer, usual dealer facilities with warranty etc seems the best price i can get a classic for with less than 100k on the clock! will also do PX on celica i want to change as its too slow after last scoob!

swtmerce

I'd spend less and buy something like Andy Downes £3500 car which looks well looked after and mint. Leaves you with money to do other things (and I don't mean mod - I'd be afraid to engine mod an old car), or you can put the money away in case anything major happens with the car. Whether it's a T reg with 85K or a P reg with 100K, IMO they are at an age where other things fail othe than just the engine. For example, I just paid for my old Nissan to get through MOT. It's been sat doing nothing for about 5 months and until then it was used daily and relatively well cared for. It's needed power steering rack seals, suspension bushes ALL over the place, brake lines and pads. It's only done 90K.

Paul3446

This looks a better buy, it's a bit more money , but lower mileage and newer.

http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=485075

pnbond007

iTrader: (1)

My MY93WRX-Ra could be for sale for the right price.

Absolute genuine motor with pedigree & very little mileage '1800 miles' since RCM work.

Very little use, in lovely condition


PNB
Nuneaton

RayC

Thanks guys i really need dealer service due to needing to px m other car, i need it for work and cant afford to sell then look for right scooby, i also want minimum age of 98my i've found lots of 100k plus cheaper including one which is 98my with onlyone owner from new,but am really worried about higher miles75/80kis my max and feel happier with warranty, does any one know of any particlar traits i should look out for, common faults etc?

corradoboy

98-00 cars had troublesome MAF sensors which were prone to failure, especially if induction kits were fitted. Watch for uneven idle and a flat spot in the power delivery at around 4k revs. Check for clutch slip by setting off in 2nd uphill. Make sure all gears slot home nicely on both up and down changes. If you buy the one with the chav valve, ask the dealer to return it to standard before you collect as it doesn't help with the smooth running of the engine and ultimately could cause problems.

RayC

Corradoboy thanks for advice i will check,

ray

RayC

thanks for all advise, i looked at 6 in total, all rubbish, i've never seen a genuine 80k car with the clutch pedal rubber so worn its falling off! plus some other nasty things like a very deisel like sound and one with mayo in the oil and rusty water marks round the coolant expansion tank!

will keep sniffing about but its looking like there is not much about

swtmerce

I feel for you RayC. I looked at an S reg '40,000' miler with a worn through brake pedal rubber! So funny. Fingers crossed I have now found the car I will be buying at last! (then again, 3 weeks and 4 cars viewed wasn't particularly tough). I think my strategy of using a checklist and asking all the questions over the phone (usually takes about 30 minutes) filters out a lot of the dross. Also, when talking to someone, if you get a bad vibe, just move on. One's gut feeling is usually right!

pnbond007

iTrader: (1)

I maintain my my standpoint on this, good classics are worth a great deal more than they are currently fetching.

I have a mint MY93 WRX-RA with pedigree & it aint goin nowhere for anything less than 7/8k, good luck you may say.

Good classic's are all under estimated in value, because so many of the newer breads are fetching peanuts.

Mark my words, good example 'un-blinged' classics will comand high prices in the very near future, classics are the very reason Subaru has taken off in the UK & long may the classic reign.

My opinion....

StudentScooby

MAF, rockers, crank seals. sure someone has said before and i second that these are the major culprits so check if they have been done.