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How much will a turbo replacement cost me? 2010 Wrx?
Was driving home last night and started hearing strange noises from the turbo I.e long diesel style whistles and random now and again what sounded like induction suction although we still run the standard airbox, loss of power so I slowed right down and crawled home, on inspection under the bonnet today there is a rattle sound inside the turbo when the revs are coming down, so we are guessing there is a bent turbo blade catching the housing. How much around could I expect to pay to get this sorted?
If you READ the "Item Specification" section at the bottom of the web pages they are both listed as TD04DL 's for both items......
and
Each to their own but personally, I'd get the original OEM item repaired/refurbished rather than fitting cheap Chinese replacements.
Good luck with your purchase.
Last edited by Don Clark; 10 May 2023 at 09:26 PM.
Max pedo rods......disaster waiting to happen. I think you're confusing convienience, ie going local, with doing the job properly, ie using a oem turbo or a recognised rebuilder.
There are loads of these turbos sitting on shelves second hand. Buy one, get it rebuilt by Craig or Fastline, then swap it in.
Max pedo rods......disaster waiting to happen. I think you're confusing convienience, ie going local, with doing the job properly, ie using a oem turbo or a recognised rebuilder.
There are loads of these turbos sitting on shelves second hand. Buy one, get it rebuilt by Craig or Fastline, then swap it in.
Thanks you're 100 percent correct and I'm having the existing 1 reconditioned
If you READ the "Item Specification" section at the bottom of the web pages they are both listed as TD04DL 's for both items......
and
Each to their own but personally, I'd get the original OEM item repaired/refurbished rather than fitting cheap Chinese replacements.
Good luck with your purchase.
You're right mate and yes I'm going to have the existing 1 repaired
ive got a vf43 turbo on my hatch wrx which uses the vf52 housing because of the inlet manifold layout being different to the sti. mine produces nearly 350, but i am fully forged, because the headgasket went on mine. if you are gonna upgrade the turbo id switch the radiator aswell because the standard rad is awful. mine was built by craig belworthy. have it done properly otherwise it could lead to some real problems.
Each to their own but personally, I'd get the original OEM item repaired/refurbished rather than fitting cheap Chinese replacements.
Good luck with your purchase.
Sorry to pop up. Usually I'd totally agree with this, recently I've had a right headache with refurbished "OEM" Turbos. Admittedly on VAG PD diesels with Garret GT17 VNTs, which can be fussy, but being so common you'd think professional UK based rebuilders would get them right!
Nope. Original unit, seized/sticky VNT due to bonnet/scuttle seal allowing rain to fall on top of turbo - bad luck sh*t happens.
Replacement Turbo (2): recon exchange supplied by GSF motor factors branded as "Recoturbo" which are supposed to be a good UK based supplier. Genuine Garret casting, looks ok visually identical to factory turbo. However, laggy; VNT badly setup, blew turbine oil seal and dump 2 litres of oil into the exhaust on a 1 mile road test; The half mile it took to realise the smoke out the back was more than just machine oil burning off and turn around (engine oil was changed during turbo swap, so knew how much it lost).
Turbo number 3. Another recon exchange. Again genuine Garret casting etc. Bit less laggy off the mark, but then spooled and surged like the clappers. But just below the max boost threshold so no limp mode/overboost code etc. So again wrong VNT calibration. Turbo audibly over-speeding, which on extended road test (to see if zi could get ECU to adapt to new VNT) progressively got louder as core probably didn't like the overspeed and probably nicked a blade on the housing. Lots of black smoke on spool up. MOT emissions fail on smoke tester as ECU was getting confused by airflow/boost readings caused by the bad VNT creating too much back pressure (high boost, low airflow etc).
Turbo 4: F*ck it. Getting desperate as was driving it to Spain the following week. Fitted a Chinesium totally brand new unit. Branded as 'Turbofit' that came from Alliance Automotive (Alledged to be via BTN in Bristol - same contact details on box) so they may use these cores in recon turbos). Clearly copied castings, so not OEM. However so far so good. VNT calibration spot on, quiet, no lag, no surge, no smoke. Bit boring as it doesn't kick like a mule like the last turbo, but it's not supposed to kick LOL. Cheaper too!
Ok, it'll probably blow up next week, but it managed better than the others so far. On the bright side I can probably do a turbo swap on a 16v PD in less than 30mins whilst blindfolded. 😂
So for me I'd be avoiding motor factor supplied (or pretty much any) reconditioned unit. As I suspect they are just cleaning up the housing, throwing in random quality cores, brief test and then sending it in hope it'll be OK. Exception is BTN (which I know are good but couldn't get delivered in time).
But sometimes the Chinesium comes up trumps if it's from a reputable supplier (i.e not via eBay drop-shippers and bedroom traders etc). With the amount of iffy CHRAs floating about with rebuilders pushing quantity/cost over quality. Outright totally new (so long as it's not counterfeit) or well reputed supplier is the way to go.
Are td04l’s newage on or did any classics have them? Reason being have been offered a td04l that has been refurbished but not fitted to the car as it’s been sold. Car was a classic uk2000 so not sure if it fits a newage.
The chap is a mechanic and his neighbour is a turbo refurbishing company, has had several turbos from him that all performed as they should.
edit: regarding Chinese quality, the only experience I’ve had so far is with a set of billet aluminium adjustable brake and clutch levers that cost me £17 for my motorcycle. Only problem was the anodising on them turned from black to gold but as my forks are gold it didn’t bother me. The other option was paying £80 for a set from a known brand in this country for basically the same thing. One of these sets had issues, as a few owners that had fitted them were thrown over the handlebars when the brake lever somehow managed to slam the front brakes on and it wasn’t the cheap Chinese set!
Sorry to pop up. Usually I'd totally agree with this, recently I've had a right headache with refurbished "OEM" Turbos. Admittedly on VAG PD diesels with Garret GT17 VNTs, which can be fussy, but being so common you'd think professional UK based rebuilders would get them right!
Nope. Original unit, seized/sticky VNT due to bonnet/scuttle seal allowing rain to fall on top of turbo - bad luck sh*t happens.
Replacement Turbo (2): recon exchange supplied by GSF motor factors branded as "Recoturbo" which are supposed to be a good UK based supplier. Genuine Garret casting, looks ok visually identical to factory turbo. However, laggy; VNT badly setup, blew turbine oil seal and dump 2 litres of oil into the exhaust on a 1 mile road test; The half mile it took to realise the smoke out the back was more than just machine oil burning off and turn around (engine oil was changed during turbo swap, so knew how much it lost).
Turbo number 3. Another recon exchange. Again genuine Garret casting etc. Bit less laggy off the mark, but then spooled and surged like the clappers. But just below the max boost threshold so no limp mode/overboost code etc. So again wrong VNT calibration. Turbo audibly over-speeding, which on extended road test (to see if zi could get ECU to adapt to new VNT) progressively got louder as core probably didn't like the overspeed and probably nicked a blade on the housing. Lots of black smoke on spool up. MOT emissions fail on smoke tester as ECU was getting confused by airflow/boost readings caused by the bad VNT creating too much back pressure (high boost, low airflow etc).
Turbo 4: F*ck it. Getting desperate as was driving it to Spain the following week. Fitted a Chinesium totally brand new unit. Branded as 'Turbofit' that came from Alliance Automotive (Alledged to be via BTN in Bristol - same contact details on box) so they may use these cores in recon turbos). Clearly copied castings, so not OEM. However so far so good. VNT calibration spot on, quiet, no lag, no surge, no smoke. Bit boring as it doesn't kick like a mule like the last turbo, but it's not supposed to kick LOL. Cheaper too!
Ok, it'll probably blow up next week, but it managed better than the others so far. On the bright side I can probably do a turbo swap on a 16v PD in less than 30mins whilst blindfolded. 😂
So for me I'd be avoiding motor factor supplied (or pretty much any) reconditioned unit. As I suspect they are just cleaning up the housing, throwing in random quality cores, brief test and then sending it in hope it'll be OK. Exception is BTN (which I know are good but couldn't get delivered in time).
But sometimes the Chinesium comes up trumps if it's from a reputable supplier (i.e not via eBay drop-shippers and bedroom traders etc). With the amount of iffy CHRAs floating about with rebuilders pushing quantity/cost over quality. Outright totally new (so long as it's not counterfeit) or well reputed supplier is the way to go.
Blimey Ali B, that's an interesting write up. What PD was this on? I have a Passat B5.5 1.9 AWX 130 and a Golf Mk4 1.9 AJM 115
About 6 months ago I had the limp mode on the AJM so did the Mr Muscle trick....to be fair...so far it's been fine after that. I worked the actuator by hand while the oven cleaner was in there.....not ideal to do this trick, but the car now gets regular harder use, so I'm hoping the vanes stay pretty free...
The Golf had only done 42k miles, and has belonged to my mum since new - we flew to Hamburg and drove it out the showroom back in 2000 when importing a UK bound car saved about £5k off the on the road price compared the to UK.
Trouble is, it was 42k of short journeys, never driven hard etc....literally one careful lady owner 6 speed manual, bought it from my dad for £800...sports seats, sunroof, climatronic etc...nice little tidy car.
EGR valve only had a very thin layer of soot so I cleaned that for what it was worth, and inlet the manifold was clear.
Do not start it ask about the condition of the compressor wheel and check is it in the intercooler. If not then check the intake hose and hope its in one or the other. Meticulously clean the intercooler and hope for the best.
??? there are no "bolts" inside the turbo.
The only moving parts are the "turbine wheel and shaft", the "compressor wheel" and it's retaining nut.
If the nut had come loose (unlikely as it's LH thread) it would be in the air intake side not the exhaust.
that's the the 1 mate the retaining nut, it was found inside the intake as you say. Collected the car today, drove 20 minutes before going back into limp mode, engine warning light on, power loss, increase in noise
Started to run normally again, taken back to garage and it cam up something about electronic throttle body fault, code cleared and been fine nearly a week now and over 300 miles
09 May 2023, 12:33 PM
How much will a turbo replacement cost me? 2010 Wrx?
