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Looking at refreshing the rear of my jdm while I have the shocks off I did lano guard the rear when I bought it but was looking at refreshing the paint in the inner arch no rust just want to pro long it . Would stone chip paint be up to the job
Stonechip is good stuff and cheap. Looks OEM, and is pretty durable with 2 or even 3 generous coats.
Here's some pics of my recent inner OSR turret work on my 2007 STi Hawk. First used Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80, then they grey sealant is ThreeBond 1215, then Isopon all purpose aerosol grey primer, then finally the black is Stonechip.
It seems a good combo and all in all was several layers applied of the various products I used. It's the factory seam sealant that goes brittle and comes away from the seams and allows water into the seams, that's the start of it. Generally it was awkward with the strut and spring still in place.
This gives you an idea of Stonechip when it dries it's a uniform matt black. The shiny black is where the Stonechip was still wet and the flash on my phone camera :
Stonechip is good stuff and cheap. Looks OEM, and is pretty durable with 2 or even 3 generous coats.
Here's some pics of my recent inner OSR turret work on my 2007 STi Hawk. First used Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80, then they grey sealant is ThreeBond 1215, then Isopon all purpose aerosol grey primer, then finally the black is Stonechip.
It seems a good combo and all in all was several layers applied of the various products I used. It's the factory seam sealant that goes brittle and comes away from the seams and allows water into the seams, that's the start of it. Generally it was awkward with the strut and spring still in place.
This gives you an idea of Stonechip when it dries it's a uniform matt black. The shiny black is where the Stonechip was still wet and the flash on my phone camera :
don't mean any offence but unless you have cut that rust out or taken it back to bare metal first you are just sealing overtop of the issues and they will come back later on but will be a lot worse due to it being all sealed over and moisture sitting behind it all ,, seen loads done like this and its a patch at best but doesnt last,,, only way to keep rust away is either to remove it completely or take enough off the surface that you can then treat with rust encapsulation then put stuff ontop
I basically went with:
- remove as much as I could
- small sections in hydrate 80
- coats of bilt hamber epoxy mastic
- seam sealer (bilt hamber)
- second coat of epoxy mastic
- cavity wax in the chassis rails
- cavity wax in places where I wasn’t totally sure about getting 100 coverage with other wax
- clear underbody wax (ub50 clear)
I haven’t, and will not, bother with stonechip. I think the ub50 creeps enough to fill in any small holes that stones make, and I want to be able to keep an eye on the underside and arches and fix if something does start rusting, rather than it all being hidden by under seal until it’s too late (but my car doesn’t typically get driven much anyway - other people have different driving patterns and may want stone chip).
It’s taken me from December to now, and I’m finally putting bits back on. I only work on it here and there, but don’t underestimate the amount of work… scraping all that stuff off is the worst!
Yea as said, why not grind it back to bare metal? Might be able to save it. Once back to bare metal, then use rusty eating stuff can't remember the name I have used it on mine after rubbing it down before spraying to make sure there's no rust there.
There's other stuff you can use to stop the air and water getting to it and rust progressing any further, lanoguard.
i'll start to change my rear arches and inner arches next week,
first i'll clean old paint/stonechip guard with wire brush
control corrosion, use rust converter or cut the corroded panels,
alwasy use rust primer(glasurit 183-30) for bare metal before epoxy primer
then apply epoxy primer then apply mastic(if necessary)
then stonechip guard(paintable ones) then factory base paint(like n42 or samething similer ral code paint)
i think always paint after stonechip guard, this product very prone to retain moisture inside
epoxy primer(high zinc about %90 like jotamastic) for inner arches
i prepared rear arches same method first rust primer then epoxy primer
Last edited by semih; 12 September 2022 at 12:10 PM.
11 September 2022, 12:57 AM
Repainting inner rear arch (refresh)
