Classic - rear Caliper / brake overheating ?
09 June 2022, 03:33 PM
#1
Classic - rear Caliper / brake overheating ?
Car just back from its MOT (passed) and the garage said the rear wheel / brake is overheating.
It's going back in next week, but I presume that means the original n/s/r caliper has had it, so a pad is staying on / caliper is sticking?
I'd rather it has the right parts with it when it goes in:-
1) Anything else I need to order apart from a caliper and new pads ?
2) Would you use Import Car Parts or who else has original/ or OEM supplier ?
I had the fronts replaced with the refurbed Godspeeds a few years ago, which had been fine, but I just need standard for the back ?
It's going back in next week, but I presume that means the original n/s/r caliper has had it, so a pad is staying on / caliper is sticking?
I'd rather it has the right parts with it when it goes in:-
1) Anything else I need to order apart from a caliper and new pads ?
2) Would you use Import Car Parts or who else has original/ or OEM supplier ?
I had the fronts replaced with the refurbed Godspeeds a few years ago, which had been fine, but I just need standard for the back ?
10 June 2022, 08:59 AM
#6
Scooby Regular
Last edited by Don Clark; 10 June 2022 at 09:00 AM.
10 June 2022, 09:14 AM
#7
You can get them brand new for £50, here's one, not sure if correct caliper but there's loads, I'd just replace them both. If you want genuine Subaru go refurb route.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284762247...mis&media=COPY
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284762247...mis&media=COPY
Trending Topics
10 June 2022, 09:20 AM
#8
Scooby Regular
in general its not the actual caliper piston seized .............
if your lucky its simply the pads / pad retainer plates gummed up and not allowing them to return correctly
often its the actual slider pins / mechanism (not supplied with a refurbed caliper body!!) and this can be exasperated if people have been using copper slip, etc rather than the correct rubber grease as it swells the slider boots and stops everything moving
if your lucky its simply the pads / pad retainer plates gummed up and not allowing them to return correctly
often its the actual slider pins / mechanism (not supplied with a refurbed caliper body!!) and this can be exasperated if people have been using copper slip, etc rather than the correct rubber grease as it swells the slider boots and stops everything moving
10 June 2022, 09:31 AM
#9
Copper grease? I always but it in the back of the pads/shims to stop squeaking.
It's normally easier to buy the whole unit, as most likely pistons will be rusty. And for the amount of time it will take you refurb them, easier to buy a new set if you value your time.
It's normally easier to buy the whole unit, as most likely pistons will be rusty. And for the amount of time it will take you refurb them, easier to buy a new set if you value your time.
Originally Posted by stockcar
in general its not the actual caliper piston seized .............
if your lucky its simply the pads / pad retainer plates gummed up and not allowing them to return correctly
often its the actual slider pins / mechanism (not supplied with a refurbed caliper body!!) and this can be exasperated if people have been using copper slip, etc rather than the correct rubber grease as it swells the slider boots and stops everything moving
if your lucky its simply the pads / pad retainer plates gummed up and not allowing them to return correctly
often its the actual slider pins / mechanism (not supplied with a refurbed caliper body!!) and this can be exasperated if people have been using copper slip, etc rather than the correct rubber grease as it swells the slider boots and stops everything moving
10 June 2022, 10:04 AM
#10
Scooby Regular
copper grease is fine on pads BUT not on the slider pins or rubber seals as it reacts and swells / distorts the rubber
you MUST us suitable rubber grease........
if you look at the link you posted it only includes the caliper body with no slider pins, mechanism or seals
you MUST us suitable rubber grease........
if you look at the link you posted it only includes the caliper body with no slider pins, mechanism or seals
10 June 2022, 11:45 AM
#11
Thanks for all the help.
I think I will get a new set of the same pads currently on the car and a refurbed 'genuine' caliper.
It looks a bit of a minefield on eBay on what's fully refurbed but I've ordered one that looks right and it says 98-00MY in the application guide.
Will I need anything else - thinking caliper bolts etc?
I think I will get a new set of the same pads currently on the car and a refurbed 'genuine' caliper.
It looks a bit of a minefield on eBay on what's fully refurbed but I've ordered one that looks right and it says 98-00MY in the application guide.
Will I need anything else - thinking caliper bolts etc?
Last edited by Flat4x4-again; 10 June 2022 at 11:59 AM.
10 June 2022, 05:39 PM
#12
Scooby Regular
So long as you use 6-point* sockets and not 12-point ones, you don't run the risk of rounding the bolts. Also I'd get some threadlock for when you do up the caliper bolts again, but clean off the old threadlock 1st with a wire brush in an electric drill.
*impact sockets are all 6-point-well worth investing in a set when working on 'older' cars-saves rounding off slightly rusty nuts and bolts.
*impact sockets are all 6-point-well worth investing in a set when working on 'older' cars-saves rounding off slightly rusty nuts and bolts.
10 June 2022, 06:00 PM
#13
Scooby Regular
copper grease is fine on pads BUT not on the slider pins or rubber seals as it reacts and swells / distorts the rubber
you MUST us suitable rubber grease........
if you look at the link you posted it only includes the caliper body with no slider pins, mechanism or seals
you MUST us suitable rubber grease........
if you look at the link you posted it only includes the caliper body with no slider pins, mechanism or seals
10 June 2022, 11:54 PM
#14
Impact sockets are good. Impact guns are rubbish.
Originally Posted by nicam49
So long as you use 6-point* sockets and not 12-point ones, you don't run the risk of rounding the bolts. Also I'd get some threadlock for when you do up the caliper bolts again, but clean off the old threadlock 1st with a wire brush in an electric drill.
*impact sockets are all 6-point-well worth investing in a set when working on 'older' cars-saves rounding off slightly rusty nuts and bolts.
*impact sockets are all 6-point-well worth investing in a set when working on 'older' cars-saves rounding off slightly rusty nuts and bolts.
11 June 2022, 08:53 AM
#15
Scooby Regular
its generally simply called "Red Rubber Grease", like this albeit there aremany others
https://www.millersoils.co.uk/produc...rubber-grease/
11 June 2022, 04:55 PM
#17
Scooby Regular
Hi, check out Bigg Red for a repair kit
https://www.biggred.co.uk/
https://www.biggred.co.uk/
Last edited by nicam49; 11 June 2022 at 04:56 PM.
14 June 2022, 08:42 PM
#18
Prob best using this stuff then.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144298189...bb2e%7Ciid%3A1
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144298189...bb2e%7Ciid%3A1
copper grease is fine on pads BUT not on the slider pins or rubber seals as it reacts and swells / distorts the rubber
you MUST us suitable rubber grease........
if you look at the link you posted it only includes the caliper body with no slider pins, mechanism or seals
you MUST us suitable rubber grease........
if you look at the link you posted it only includes the caliper body with no slider pins, mechanism or seals
15 June 2022, 11:42 AM
#20
Sliding calipers are very, very easy to strip, clean and reassemble. They also require servicing annually to avoid sticking such as the OP has discovered. So you may as well get your hands dirty now and save some money for now and the future. As said, it will either be the sliders are stuck (simply clean and lubricate or replace if badly pitted), worn and distorted pads jamming in the caliper (replace pads, clean caliper) or least likely a rusted piston (replace). What it won't be is any fault with the big lump of metal that is the caliper, which is what you are paying for if you buy a replacement unit.
22 June 2022, 12:26 PM
#21
It was the caliper piston seized up. Seen off the car its very rusted up after 23 years.
Subaru part £450 + vat and no UK stock, so got a refurbished one in advance from Brakes International for £78 with warranty (looks as new) and new pads that matched the same ones that were sticking on the car.
Subaru part £450 + vat and no UK stock, so got a refurbished one in advance from Brakes International for £78 with warranty (looks as new) and new pads that matched the same ones that were sticking on the car.
Last edited by Flat4x4-again; 22 June 2022 at 12:29 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post