All VW VR6 owners....

I'm in the process of *possibly* buying a Golf VR6. Here is the spec:

1998 R reg VR6 Highline, 94k miles.

The car idled fine and sounded smooth. I took it out for a test drive - I did not thrash the car but it was a good, vigorous drive.

when I got back from the test drive we turned it off. when we started it again there was a tapping/clakking/knocking noise on tick over.

It sounded external to the block but cannot be 100% I'm thinking Cam-chain/tensioners however am reluctant to buy the car in case it isn't.

Any advice from those in the know???

 

Could have been the owner clapping his hands together thinking he had just about off loaded his clutter onto you mate

Gary

 

Cheers mate!!

 

A little concerned as this seems to be (in most cases) the tensioners etc however heard reports on VR6 websites of internal components being worn/broken/faulty.

It's weird it didn't do it until after I drove it - then it was quite noticeable. Obviously after a drive the problem was highlighted but I simply do not know whether it is simply the cam chain related stuff.

 

Hi, recently sold a Corrado VR6 that was dynamically sensational, but, of all the cars I've owned, probably the most fragile. At about the mileage that 'your' Golf is, they tend to glaze No4 or 6 cylinder, resulting in an oiled plug and a cylinder going off, in my case every 6 weeks or so, 'til I bit the bullet and stripped the motor. VW modified the pistons to eradicate this, but I don't know how successful this was. They drink a fair bit of oil too, even when perfectly healthy....however, if the owner doesn't realise this, I don't need to explain what happens. Might be worth checking the level if this lot doesn't put you off. Sunroofs and electric mirrors weren't the most reliable either. The fuel injection relay is another potential problem area ( typical VW problem this ). Won't go on, you've more than likely heard enough. Wouldn't risk it for a Golf, not rewarding enough to drive, however even I'd have another Corrado. Good luck!

Btw, how long did it stand after your drive before it was restarted....tappets can be shockingly loud from cold if they're tired.

 

I would suspect the same as you and suspect the timing gear, or possibly the water pump.. Trouble is, with it only doing it from hot suggests it could be as the oil thins down, i.e. internals..

Definatley worth a closer look before hanfing any cash over!


Chris

 

Simple answer, walk away, I bought a Fiat Coupe despite having 'niggles' and what a pile of **** that turned out to be, the VR6's arent that great anyway, I prefer a well sorted 4 cylinder Golf, a lot cheaper to run and more fun, was a bit nonplussed when I drove a (Vento) VR6, expected it to be way better than a MK2 8 valve, sure it was quicker, but more fun, er no.

 

I looked at a Corrado vr6 with the same problem. Spoke to many VW experts and checked on the web and all opinions pointed to the timing chain needing replacing as this is a week point with these engines and crops up around the 80k mark. Ignore it and the consequences could well be terminal. Was quoted between £600-£800 to sort it out....

 

Try and find a Fiat coupe without "niggles" ... sorry....

 

Yeah, opinion from Corrado VR6 owners is that you should budget for chain replacement at 100K. It isn't actually the chains that are the problem, but that the tensioners wear out. IIRC Stealth racing charge 1500 quid for chain/tensioner replacement, clutch replacement (gearbox has to come out) and top end rebuild (recommended at 100k also as oil consumption has also been put down to worn valve guides as well as the bore problem mentioned earlier).

Which side of the engine BTW? Chains are located on the gearbox side if I am correct?

The noise of worn chains/tensioners (I am told) is unmistakeable, although I am unable to describe it!

Agree with micared, these things are fragile...narrow angle V (15 degrees) and small engine bay cause heat dissapation problems, although the 2.8 suffers less than the 2.9.

HTH,
Nev

 

.......jesus.

 

reading this i would be more inclined to run

 

get yourself an 8v mk3.

all the quality, and the 2 valve engines despite only having 115bhp are really nippy in the low rev range.

Thats what Ik did.

Failing that, get a G60 corrado and tweak it.

the 1.8/2.0 bottom end is bomb proof.

The coils on all vws are fragile but will go once in 100k miles if unlucky and cost about £70

 

OK - an update.

The seller called me and said he is getting the work done to resolve this issue regardless. He said, quote "I'm not going to be able to sell it sounding like that". So, once the work is done I will again view/test the car. If I can get a 1998 with 94k where the camchain/tensioners have been done, and (of course) the knocking noise is fixed as a result of this I'll be in business.

I thought I'd have to provisionally agree to buy the car before he shelled out to do the required work. As this is not the case, there is no pressure on me and I can view at my leisure once complete.

The car itself drove far better than the previous VR6's I have viewed.

 

Sounds like a plan -- but make sure you can check receipts for the work done BEFORE shelling out the cash

 

Too true - I will.

Want a receipt for the work done and a receipt for the parts used. If it fixes the problem then sorted - plus there is the added bonus that the work is done, something that NEEDS to be done around the 100k mark.

 

Dealer just called me up.

Car is now silent and as smooth as a nut again......Still gonna get quote for the work though.

 

Probably filled the sump with sawdust

 

I will not be buying the car.

Simple as.

Thanks for the input everybody.

 

I think most people miss the point of VR6 Golfs. They were never meant to be more fun than a GTi, they were supposed to bring the Golf more upmarket, which they did. Fvck knows how the made them handle that bad though, but that's not expensive to sort.

I think the problem with VR6s is most you find haven't been serviced or looked after well as they get older. And they do need looking after - just as you'd expect to look after a 328. Find a good one with good history and they're great cars for not a lot of money. Get one that's not look after and it'll be a POS money pit.

Lou's has been absolutely spot on, just been serviced and only things it will need doing (touch wood) in the next 6 months are suspension top mounts. Judging by the way it goes round corners, I'd guess they're made of jelly so won't be expensive to sort.

SAP, sounds like you did the right thing.

Adam,

How reliable exactly was your G60?

 

No matter how hard I try I still really want one of these. After driving the Golf "in question" I absolutely loved it. Power fromanywhere in the rev range, cracking sound, a good, solid feeling motor with potential to handle great!! when people say they're heavy I recommend you check the stats, they're actually lighter than a Civic Type-R....which may come as a surprise to some.

I'm not going to give up on these just yet.

Only thing that concerns me is that when I spoke to a specialist, very knowledgable guy from "stealth racing" - he said the knocking could have been one of many "common" problems with the VR6. This worries me as every possible problem ranged from £500 - £3000 to fix.

I, for some reason was under the impression they were bombproof. However, as CraigH says, get a good one and they're great - get a bad 'un and you'll be forever paying.

Perhaps I should bite the bullet and get a low miler, 1 owner, FVWSH, 1998 highline for 6 grand and know for sure?!? I dunno.

 

Perhaps it could be "specialists" controlling urban myths that these things have mountains of problems to ensure good business - just like some E30 M3 "specialists" do with the timing chain thing......

If it's any consolation, if the engine goes bang, you can pick 'em up complete for less than £750.......or a little more for a 2.9.

 

Craig, you're a top man!!!