funkmasterjay

Well well. Not re-inventing the wheel here, but I picked up my Pro Sport gauges today to keep a keen eye on boost pressure but more importantly oil temperature and pressure.

I have my eye on 3 gauge dash pods for the Classic Subaru (MY99) and also the fitting kit.

I also need to get some conduit, several lengths of wire in different colours, heat shrink, relay etc to create a new loom for the gauges. I will post my progress on here.

These are my goodies.



J

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

A good place for wiring is here:
www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk.

The Trooper 1815

iTrader: (31)

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...e/homepage.php

funkmasterjay

Thanks guys.

I have just ordered a fitting kit for the senders. I am replacing plugs, knock and o2 sensor this weekend so I hope the fitting kit turns up so I can crack on with those while the intercooler is off.

I have looked through my parts boxes and I have a relay, loads of fuses etc but I will use that site for other stuff. My plan is to get the fitting kit installed first, and create a loom indoors.

May I ask, how accurate is the OEM water temp gauge. Is it worth installing an aftermarket one? I was thinking of running an extra wire through the bulkhead for water temp in case I need to install one later - making the job neater and a little more future proof.

Any hints and tips MUCH appreciated as I have never owned a Subaru before, and this is my first turbo car in 4 years.

Finally, apart from deep 24mm socket and 22mm socket, any other unusual tools I need?

J

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Water gauge first: the stock one is accurate to a fashion, but only reads from around 65 degrees, ie: it's not registering until then, and just sits SOMEWHERE on a scale, which is not marked, except for red and blue, for the rest of the time.

My Defi WT gauge reads from 30 degrees and seems accurate to a couple of degrees. I can immediately see if the temperature is rising above it's normal 82 degrees, and do something about it.
Last year, stuck in heavy traffic, it went over 90, so I put the heater on hot, blowers on full and opened some windows. It went back to 82-4.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Tools: I assume, since you seem to want to make a job of this, that the oil temperature sender is going into the tapping on top of No3 cylinder? And that the oil PRESSURE gauge is going where the stock OP switch is?

If so, first off, you need a LONG strong 8mm Allen Key to remove the plug in the tappings for the OT sender. THEN you need an adaptor, it's somethging like 1/8 npt to M18. A decent gauge place will sell you one, ebay do them too.

Secondly, the OT sender: depending on the sender, it may not physically fit where the stock switch does, but can be used with an extension/T-piece, which also allows you to keep the stock switch, (although my stock switch resides on a garage shelf, as it's useless).

HTH

funkmasterjay

Hey all.
Well, this afternoon I fitted some NGK Iridium plugs, cleaned the K&N panel filter and also installed the gauge fitting kit. It was a fiddly, but fairly straightforward job with my mate Gary.

After putting everything together, there was a small leak on the oil temp sensor. Intercooler etc off and a bit of PTFE tape and all is bone dry. I extended all the wires, wrapped them in some black conduit, ready to join a new loom which will go into the cabin.

I know people like pics, so here they are.

Oil presure port.


Oil temp wire hidden in conduit to protect it from the elements, but also to look a little OEM.


Oil pressure sender mounted. No leaks.


Bit random, but Gal owns the Octavia VRS and that's my old Lexus that is now being lovingly looked after by his brother, Ross.


I will do the interior when I get the chance. I will post more detailed pics as it's not as dirty / oily.

J

funkmasterjay

OK - so I prised myself away from playing happy families to complete the install.

I went to TDi South to get a few meters of good quality automotive wire (the stuff they use for new looms / ECUs etc). For accuracy, I ran a new ground wire and ensured all the gauges and sensors share a common ground. That way there will not be a potential difference between earthing points.

I then ran a fused live to the ignition switch (live while cranking and with engine running), and another to the accessory feed behind the dash. I did this so I will get oil pressure reading during cranking. Only problem after I finished is that the voltage was reading as low as 9v while cranking but it was raining so no time to fit a relay and new 16 gauge live wire straight to the battery - project for another day.

For the sensors, I ran the vac hose, oil temp and oil press plus an extra wire for water temp which I will fit later on.

I am not very happy with the dash pod but it's OK and it's function over fashion so I will learn to live with it.

Here are the pics.

PS I ran out of gas on the soldering iron on my final connection (ignition switch) so it looks messy.

1. Sensor wires hidden in new conduit for protection and neatness.


2. I know it looks nasty, but it works and I will tidy it up same time as fitting a relay for more reliable power.


3. Fused power supply.


4. Vacuum gauge, ignition/acc wires and sensor/earth wires coming up through the cubby hole base.




5. Night time - ignition off


6. Ignition on with flash


7. Ignition on without flash.


8. While I was there, I was tired of seeing my iPod/USB cable on display so I ran it under the trim with enough to reach the HU but could be hidden under the ash tray. The other end is under the arm rest.




That's it. Not as great as the cars on this site, but I am happy with it.

Jason.