ashbuster

hey guys
i have bought a manual boost controller because at the moment my scooby suffers from overboosting i have been told its because after the decat was put on it wasnt mapped out,
anyway i bought this to see if i can turn my boost down because it boost cuts at 20 psi andi carnt afford a map right now as ive heard there 600 quid and i dont have 600 quid spare lol
this is what i have bought


this is a photo of in my engine bay

im guessing this is right

1)from turbo
2)restrictor pill
3)wastegate
4)goes to 2 port solenoid
5)t piece

i know it has to go between the turbo and wastegate but where? and what way around?
any help would be great
thanks guys

Jimbob

iTrader: (13)

You really want to get to the bottom of the boost cut before you fit one of those.

Mine was boost cutting, so I sorted the pipework out, then it was still doing it.
By passed the boost controller, and run the vacuum pipe from the turbo straight to the actuator, which should be around 5-6psi max, mine was hitting 10psi and cutting.
Un wound my actuator and hey presto it solved the issue.

So check pipes, then check everything is doing what it should. As fitting that could cause more problems than you have now.

Also you sure thats where the restrictor should be??

ashbuster

hi mate thanks for the reply
ive checked all pipes and it seems i have no leaks, everythings nice and tight
my actuator isnt adjustable its fixed bud, i dont know anything about these subarus
the problem im having is
when im in 4th or 5th and i floor it when it hits 20 psi it cuts and i want to lower it to stop it,
its had lots of different things done to it form previous owner ive only had it 2 days
i think it needs a map but for now just wanted to fit that to lower boost,

about the restrictor pill
in photos in this link its in the right place
http://www.scribd.com/doc/104227/How...m-Works-v11-01

Jimbob

iTrader: (13)

20 psi is waaaaaaay too much I`m sure, my 1995 only goes to 13 16 is boost/fuel cut.
The actuator may have a nut on it allowing you to pop the arm off the turbo allowing you to unwind it.


BUT would need to know whats been done to it first, if its been mapped etc etc etc as if it it has it may need a trip back to have it looked at.
Get some pics up and ANY spec you can remember the last owner saying, and any info they gave you.
What year/model/ etc etc etc.

ashbuster

ok mate
this was the ad

WOLF IN SHEEPS CLOTHING standard looks slightly modded 310 bhp full mot 4 months tax 85,000 miles alot of money spent on additions and sti upgrades and mods turbo gauges turbo timer sti intercooler high lift cams stage 2 rally head new clutch forge dump valve samco pipes 4" scorpion stainless steel right through form manifold to back with stainless steel de-cat 17" black alloys with brand new tyres upgraded brakes and discs and calipers alround no oil or water leaks no knock bangs or rattles nice firm ride but smooth everything works as it should nice and tight and nibble as a rally car should be under the bonnet is so clean blacked out windows all round 4x e/w e/m a/c r/c/l kenwood cd player adustable steering 2000 sti uprades chystal clear headlights and chrystal clear side lights smoked side indicators smoked matching front indicators and much much more there is just to much to list but any questions please ask away
and some pix


anything impeticular you would like me to take a photo of?

ashbuster

thanks for the reply mate
my actuator seems to be fixed, doesnt look adjustable

ashbuster

anyone here know anything about this car?
previous owner been a member here?
also a friend of mine said thats not the standard turbo for it
he said he read the numbers on it and its upgraded and its been sprayed with something

bugeyejohn

iTrader: (11)

Im no expert on classics but if the cat was put back on this wouldnt cause over boosting,the opposite i would have thought.A bigger turbo probably would though you need to check what turbo it is also what year car do you have.

ashbuster

i have a r reg mate with no cat on at all
turbo is RHF5

ashbuster

can anyone help me in what to do ?
i have got it here ready to fit it , its not a bleed valve it doesnt work like that

this is the write up on it

Purpose and Description:

The 100% genuine and original brass MBC valve! Not like other cheap replicas, money back guarantee, made to last and the highest quality version you will find! You will not be disappointed with this!

Unique and bespoke ball and spring specifically made for and only found on Mumby Engineering MBC's! Ours will not jam unlike other cheap replicas!

The stainless steel ball and spring ensure no rust build up on the valve seat for consistent performance and reliability - another unique feature of our MBC's!

Unique high quality tapered BSP fitted hose tails to ensure an air tight seal.

The quality of this controller is second to none, the body and hose tails are made from solid brass, with stainless steel bolt, nut, ball and spring, and finally brass washer.

Buy with confidence, you are looking at one of the most tried and tested quality manual boost controllers on the market that works very well!

During testing on a rolling road we found it almost eliminated waste gate creep and boost spiking.

This MBC can very accurately control boost levels up to 45psi (Tried and tested), the stainless steel allen key bolt is simply turned clockwise to increase boost level and anti-clockwise to lower it again.

I must stress this is NOT a bleed valve! Bleed valves simply bleed pressure off and do nothing to help waste gate creep, they can also cause engine damage due to the amount of metered air they bleed off.

This boost controller uses the renowned and proven ball and spring method to accurately regulate the flow of air. This not only allows regulation of boost but delays the pressure signal to turbo waste gate actuator until the pre-calibrated boost level is met, thus helping keep your waste gate closed longer hence increasing throttle response and decreasing turbo lag.

Very easy to fit - Simply fits inline on the hose to your actuator, instructions are provided.

Maintenance free! Very simple but effective design, making it ultra reliable.


i just want to fit it and turn my boost down

bugeyejohn

iTrader: (11)

If you have a rhf5 type turbo its one of the vf range fitted to sti models there should be a model type on it vf 23 24 etc.So if you have wrx model i think they were fitted with a td04 so thats the likely cause of overboost.You cant remap 97/98 models without buying a apexi or similar ecu as for the boost controller ive never fitted one?

ashbuster

ive fitted it now and its loads better
i joined the wastegate to one end and the turbo to the other and the t piece that joined to the solenoid is bypassed and blocked off
all working fine and stays at the right psi now which i set to 14,
this should do untill i get it mapped in 2 weeks time
so will i need a new ecu then ? it will bump my insurance up a little but ohhwell lol

any ideas where the turbo model number is? ive looked everywhere and carnt find it

bugeyejohn

iTrader: (11)

The turbo type is usually engraved next to the rh number on the raised rectangle piece but they are hard to read sometimes,but its definitely one of the vf range fitted on the sti types.If its a v3 or v4 the standard ecu cant be mapped and a second hand apexi ecu and remap will cost about £600.

ashbuster

sounds good mate looks like ill have to invest
when i bought this car it is supost to be 310bhp
is that roughly right with the turbo i have ?
and thanks for the replies mate

bugeyejohn

iTrader: (11)

The vf turbos are good for that kind of figure but you need a remap for maximum power and safety on the engine.If you look on the general section there a thread on the ESL daughter board thats just come out these will work on your car also.
correction esl still not ready

ashbuster

lol thanks bud