Oil and filter change
24 January 2009, 05:32 PM
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Oil and filter change
Hi
Would it be possible for someone to talk me through an oil and filter change.
I'm aware that you have to prime the engine after.
Do you need to use a ramp.
What oil and filter is best.
And how much oil will I need.
Don't think it matters but my cars a wrx bug eye.
Thanks for any input
Would it be possible for someone to talk me through an oil and filter change.
I'm aware that you have to prime the engine after.
Do you need to use a ramp.
What oil and filter is best.
And how much oil will I need.
Don't think it matters but my cars a wrx bug eye.
Thanks for any input
24 January 2009, 06:54 PM
#3
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The first reply in this thread should be what you're looking for - https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...ange-help.html
I just jacked the front of my car up, then let it down when it was draining to get everything out: if it's not level it won't drain properly. In hindsight I should have used 4 axle stands or used a friends garage pit.
Just use whatever you can. Probably best if you can borrow a pit because it can be very difficult to remove a tight oil filter with your hands when it's just jacked up and you're lying under it - I had to use a wrench to get the old one off.
My car(a classic turbo) took 4.5 litres to fill, and the oil filter about another couple of hundred mls.
Remember to keep filling the new filter with oil until it's full before you apply it.
So basically you'll need 5 litres of oil.
Hope that helps
Edited to say - I just measured out the 4.5 litres and poured it straight in, and that was the exact amount. The specialist I used told me to do that before hand instead of farting about guessing.
I just jacked the front of my car up, then let it down when it was draining to get everything out: if it's not level it won't drain properly. In hindsight I should have used 4 axle stands or used a friends garage pit.
Just use whatever you can. Probably best if you can borrow a pit because it can be very difficult to remove a tight oil filter with your hands when it's just jacked up and you're lying under it - I had to use a wrench to get the old one off.
My car(a classic turbo) took 4.5 litres to fill, and the oil filter about another couple of hundred mls.
Remember to keep filling the new filter with oil until it's full before you apply it.
So basically you'll need 5 litres of oil.
Hope that helps
Edited to say - I just measured out the 4.5 litres and poured it straight in, and that was the exact amount. The specialist I used told me to do that before hand instead of farting about guessing.
Last edited by GlesgaKiss; 24 January 2009 at 06:56 PM.
24 January 2009, 07:05 PM
#4
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Don't bother with stage 8-12. There is no need to disconnect any sensors or remove any plugs !
Warm engine
Drain oil
Prime new filter
Remove old/fit new (primed) filter
Replace sump nut with new compression washer
Fill with 4 litres
Check level and add small amounts, allowing to settle between each until at required level on dipstick (approx 4.5 l)
Run engine for a 10 minutes, then stand for 5 and recheck levels
Top up if necessary
Go for a short, gentle drive
After leaving to stand for 10 mins, recheck levels and check for leaks.
Warm engine
Drain oil
Prime new filter
Remove old/fit new (primed) filter
Replace sump nut with new compression washer
Fill with 4 litres
Check level and add small amounts, allowing to settle between each until at required level on dipstick (approx 4.5 l)
Run engine for a 10 minutes, then stand for 5 and recheck levels
Top up if necessary
Go for a short, gentle drive
After leaving to stand for 10 mins, recheck levels and check for leaks.
24 January 2009, 07:08 PM
#5
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Maybe not, but all you need to do is disconnect the crank sensor. Both specialists I have used have built up the oil pressure that way, so it's good enough for me.
24 January 2009, 07:17 PM
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Dis-connecting the sensors is asking for trouble and doesn't need to be done.
Pulling off any connector could make that connection unreliable.
Churning the engine over at low RPM on the starter does more damage than simply starting the damned thing.
When you do an oil change you capture the oil which has drained into the sump and the oil in the filter. There is a lot of oil coating the internal surfaces of all bearings ..... so, why would you want to churn the engine over at low RPM without firing?? Madness!
If it needed doing for any reason other tha being ****, then you would hae to do it EVERY single morning before starting the engine (as, of course, all the oil has drained into the sump overnight, in the same way that it drains on an oil change - no diffeence at all).
So, basically, if you don't have to dis-connect anything after leaving your engine all night ..... then you don't need to do so on an oil change - as the conditions are identical.
But, if it makes you sleep easier ... do it.
Pulling off any connector could make that connection unreliable.
Churning the engine over at low RPM on the starter does more damage than simply starting the damned thing.
When you do an oil change you capture the oil which has drained into the sump and the oil in the filter. There is a lot of oil coating the internal surfaces of all bearings ..... so, why would you want to churn the engine over at low RPM without firing?? Madness!
If it needed doing for any reason other tha being ****, then you would hae to do it EVERY single morning before starting the engine (as, of course, all the oil has drained into the sump overnight, in the same way that it drains on an oil change - no diffeence at all).
So, basically, if you don't have to dis-connect anything after leaving your engine all night ..... then you don't need to do so on an oil change - as the conditions are identical.
But, if it makes you sleep easier ... do it.
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24 January 2009, 07:52 PM
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Dis-connecting the sensors is asking for trouble and doesn't need to be done.
Pulling off any connector could make that connection unreliable.
Churning the engine over at low RPM on the starter does more damage than simply starting the damned thing.
When you do an oil change you capture the oil which has drained into the sump and the oil in the filter. There is a lot of oil coating the internal surfaces of all bearings ..... so, why would you want to churn the engine over at low RPM without firing?? Madness!
If it needed doing for any reason other tha being ****, then you would hae to do it EVERY single morning before starting the engine (as, of course, all the oil has drained into the sump overnight, in the same way that it drains on an oil change - no diffeence at all).
So, basically, if you don't have to dis-connect anything after leaving your engine all night ..... then you don't need to do so on an oil change - as the conditions are identical.
But, if it makes you sleep easier ... do it.
Pulling off any connector could make that connection unreliable.
Churning the engine over at low RPM on the starter does more damage than simply starting the damned thing.
When you do an oil change you capture the oil which has drained into the sump and the oil in the filter. There is a lot of oil coating the internal surfaces of all bearings ..... so, why would you want to churn the engine over at low RPM without firing?? Madness!
If it needed doing for any reason other tha being ****, then you would hae to do it EVERY single morning before starting the engine (as, of course, all the oil has drained into the sump overnight, in the same way that it drains on an oil change - no diffeence at all).
So, basically, if you don't have to dis-connect anything after leaving your engine all night ..... then you don't need to do so on an oil change - as the conditions are identical.
But, if it makes you sleep easier ... do it.
But, as for sensible guidance, spot-on
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