Oil change help
28 March 2004, 01:36 PM
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Oil change help
Can anyone give me some advice on doing an oil change, ie. how much I should put in, I'm worried about over-filling it and messing up the boost solenoid.
I read somewhere just to put 4.0L first, how much does the car hold?
What is the 3rd higher mark on the dipstick for?
My car is an MY98 UK Turbo
Cheers,
Matt.
I read somewhere just to put 4.0L first, how much does the car hold?
What is the 3rd higher mark on the dipstick for?
My car is an MY98 UK Turbo
Cheers,
Matt.
28 March 2004, 02:36 PM
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This is how greasemonkey's instructions went
Correct impreza engine oil change procedure
1) Warm engine
2) Drain old oil from sump
3) Remove old filter
4) Pre-fill new filter with fresh oil. Fill and keep filling until it won't take anymore.
5) Apply new filter
6) Apply new washer to sump plug and tighten
7) Fill engine oil filler to mid-way between two holes on the dipstick
8) Disconnect crank sensor
9) (Preferably) remove spark plugs
10) Dry crank engine at least until oil pressure light extinguishes - ideally for 20
seconds or so more.
11) Refit spark plugs
12) Refit crank sensor plug
13) Start engine, leave to idle for a good minute or so before driving for oil pressure to stabilize
14) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
15) Go for slow drive until engine fully warmed
16) Top engine oil to upper hole
17) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
Crank sensor is easy peasy, right at the top front of the block, immediately behind the timing marks on the cambelt cover, underneath the alternator.
Correct impreza engine oil change procedure
1) Warm engine
2) Drain old oil from sump
3) Remove old filter
4) Pre-fill new filter with fresh oil. Fill and keep filling until it won't take anymore.
5) Apply new filter
6) Apply new washer to sump plug and tighten
7) Fill engine oil filler to mid-way between two holes on the dipstick
8) Disconnect crank sensor
9) (Preferably) remove spark plugs
10) Dry crank engine at least until oil pressure light extinguishes - ideally for 20
seconds or so more.
11) Refit spark plugs
12) Refit crank sensor plug
13) Start engine, leave to idle for a good minute or so before driving for oil pressure to stabilize
14) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
15) Go for slow drive until engine fully warmed
16) Top engine oil to upper hole
17) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
Crank sensor is easy peasy, right at the top front of the block, immediately behind the timing marks on the cambelt cover, underneath the alternator.
28 March 2004, 02:46 PM
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Thanks for reposting that Andy! 
Cinders, follow the procedure above. The oil filter can take over half a litre when pre-filling. If you put that on, and then around another 3.5 litres in the sump, that should give you a baseline for using the dipstick. Add oil 100cc at a time and leave for a couple of minutes before checking the level. Get it mid-way between the two holes and then go for a ten minute slow drive before coming home and topping to the upper hole.
The notch further up the stick is the fully hot/overfill mark. Unless you are putting the car on the track, the oil level shouldn't be any higher than the second hole, even when hot.
Cinders, follow the procedure above. The oil filter can take over half a litre when pre-filling. If you put that on, and then around another 3.5 litres in the sump, that should give you a baseline for using the dipstick. Add oil 100cc at a time and leave for a couple of minutes before checking the level. Get it mid-way between the two holes and then go for a ten minute slow drive before coming home and topping to the upper hole.
The notch further up the stick is the fully hot/overfill mark. Unless you are putting the car on the track, the oil level shouldn't be any higher than the second hole, even when hot.
28 March 2004, 02:55 PM
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OIL Change
Spot on with the above info, we're beginning to make sense consistently with this aren't we guys??
Last bit; oil should be 10W/ 40, 10W/ 50, or 15W/ 40, 15W/ 50 AT LEAST.
It is a VERY BAD idea to put 0W or 5W in a Subaru Turbo.
Use quality brand name oil, synthetic or not [ your choice].
David API Engines
Last bit; oil should be 10W/ 40, 10W/ 50, or 15W/ 40, 15W/ 50 AT LEAST.
It is a VERY BAD idea to put 0W or 5W in a Subaru Turbo.
Use quality brand name oil, synthetic or not [ your choice].
David API Engines
we need a final opinion
28 March 2004, 03:27 PM
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Final opinion? Putting too much pressure on me there chap! 
Where's the thread? I'm off out now but if you post a link I'll have a butcher's later.
Where's the thread? I'm off out now but if you post a link I'll have a butcher's later.
28 March 2004, 03:28 PM
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Done it that way many a time, but, I've always used the same oil as I was draining out, so, if I wanna go from say Mobil 1 to Castrol or something else, should I flush or what, I'm a bit wary of flushing oil, it's way too thin!, plus, can you be sure you've got rid of all the old stuff, or the flushing oil come to that??
Opinions please!
Ron.
Opinions please!
Ron.
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28 March 2004, 03:31 PM
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You don't have to be sure you've got all the old stuff, only way to do that would be to strip the engine and clean it all out!
It's not like the old oil and the new won't mix. Just get it nice and warm and leave the sump plug off for a good old while until it stops dripping.
It's not like the old oil and the new won't mix. Just get it nice and warm and leave the sump plug off for a good old while until it stops dripping.
28 March 2004, 04:12 PM
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29 March 2004, 01:17 AM
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i see the old oil chestnut comes round again!
i use 5w30 as recomended in the book, people have said not to, why?
a thread on here recently said that a subaru garage had used 5w30 on oil changes.
i'm so confused!!!! pus i have 25l of 5w30 to use up!
i use 5w30 as recomended in the book, people have said not to, why?
a thread on here recently said that a subaru garage had used 5w30 on oil changes.
i'm so confused!!!! pus i have 25l of 5w30 to use up!
22 July 2009, 01:59 PM
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This is how greasemonkey's instructions went
Correct impreza engine oil change procedure
1) Warm engine
2) Drain old oil from sump
3) Remove old filter
4) Pre-fill new filter with fresh oil. Fill and keep filling until it won't take anymore.
5) Apply new filter
6) Apply new washer to sump plug and tighten
7) Fill engine oil filler to mid-way between two holes on the dipstick
8) Disconnect crank sensor
9) (Preferably) remove spark plugs
10) Dry crank engine at least until oil pressure light extinguishes - ideally for 20
seconds or so more.
11) Refit spark plugs
12) Refit crank sensor plug
13) Start engine, leave to idle for a good minute or so before driving for oil pressure to stabilize
14) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
15) Go for slow drive until engine fully warmed
16) Top engine oil to upper hole
17) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
Crank sensor is easy peasy, right at the top front of the block, immediately behind the timing marks on the cambelt cover, underneath the alternator.
Correct impreza engine oil change procedure
1) Warm engine
2) Drain old oil from sump
3) Remove old filter
4) Pre-fill new filter with fresh oil. Fill and keep filling until it won't take anymore.
5) Apply new filter
6) Apply new washer to sump plug and tighten
7) Fill engine oil filler to mid-way between two holes on the dipstick
8) Disconnect crank sensor
9) (Preferably) remove spark plugs
10) Dry crank engine at least until oil pressure light extinguishes - ideally for 20
seconds or so more.
11) Refit spark plugs
12) Refit crank sensor plug
13) Start engine, leave to idle for a good minute or so before driving for oil pressure to stabilize
14) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
15) Go for slow drive until engine fully warmed
16) Top engine oil to upper hole
17) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
Crank sensor is easy peasy, right at the top front of the block, immediately behind the timing marks on the cambelt cover, underneath the alternator.
22 July 2009, 04:42 PM
#15
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Different on a new age as the engines are slightly different, hence you can use it (it will run like a bag of spanners on a classic).
Tony
22 July 2009, 09:17 PM
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This is how greasemonkey's instructions went
Correct impreza engine oil change procedure
1) Warm engine
2) Drain old oil from sump
3) Remove old filter
4) Pre-fill new filter with fresh oil. Fill and keep filling until it won't take anymore.
5) Apply new filter
6) Apply new washer to sump plug and tighten
7) Fill engine oil filler to mid-way between two holes on the dipstick
8) Disconnect crank sensor
9) (Preferably) remove spark plugs
10) Dry crank engine at least until oil pressure light extinguishes - ideally for 20
seconds or so more.
11) Refit spark plugs
12) Refit crank sensor plug
13) Start engine, leave to idle for a good minute or so before driving for oil pressure to stabilize
14) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
15) Go for slow drive until engine fully warmed
16) Top engine oil to upper hole
17) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
Crank sensor is easy peasy, right at the top front of the block, immediately behind the timing marks on the cambelt cover, underneath the alternator.
Correct impreza engine oil change procedure
1) Warm engine
2) Drain old oil from sump
3) Remove old filter
4) Pre-fill new filter with fresh oil. Fill and keep filling until it won't take anymore.
5) Apply new filter
6) Apply new washer to sump plug and tighten
7) Fill engine oil filler to mid-way between two holes on the dipstick
8) Disconnect crank sensor
9) (Preferably) remove spark plugs
10) Dry crank engine at least until oil pressure light extinguishes - ideally for 20
seconds or so more.
11) Refit spark plugs
12) Refit crank sensor plug
13) Start engine, leave to idle for a good minute or so before driving for oil pressure to stabilize
14) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
15) Go for slow drive until engine fully warmed
16) Top engine oil to upper hole
17) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
Crank sensor is easy peasy, right at the top front of the block, immediately behind the timing marks on the cambelt cover, underneath the alternator.
what a load of boll-cks items 8 to 14!!
22 July 2009, 10:13 PM
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Tony
Show me where I can read that SUBARU state the disconnect Crank Sensor Oil Change ............
I thought we had sorted this myth out once and for all??
The Subaru Main Dealers do NOT disconnect any sensor, they don't even pre-fill the filter!
So much poppycock is talked about this that it boils my Engineering blood!
Show me where I can read that SUBARU state the disconnect Crank Sensor Oil Change ............
I thought we had sorted this myth out once and for all??
The Subaru Main Dealers do NOT disconnect any sensor, they don't even pre-fill the filter!
So much poppycock is talked about this that it boils my Engineering blood!
22 July 2009, 10:23 PM
#19
23 July 2009, 08:36 AM
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Prefilling the filter is hardly any trouble and makes sense, I wonder about other cars where this is impossible as the filter on some is the other way up or sideways. BTW I just pull the fuel pump fuse for cranking as its easier than getting at the crank sensor.
Must admit I can't find any reference to this procedure in Subaru workshop manuals.
Must admit I can't find any reference to this procedure in Subaru workshop manuals.
23 July 2009, 01:29 PM
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23 July 2009, 01:34 PM
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So, lets get this straight - once and for all - you haven't actually seen anything from Subaru recommending the **** Oil Change Procedure?
Technical bulletins are on the web - I'm dying to see it ..... as I KNOW it doesn't exist!
23 July 2009, 08:44 PM
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I have access to all areas ..... I await the Subaru Mains Dealer name you mention - I'll not bother Pete, just the Service Manager - even the Receptionist should be able to confirm the procedure carried out.
I cannot wait to hear them laugh down the phone at the very suggestion that they waste time and energy on such nonsense, my Main Dealer certainly took 20 minutes to pick himself off the floor and stop laughing.
I cannot wait to hear them laugh down the phone at the very suggestion that they waste time and energy on such nonsense, my Main Dealer certainly took 20 minutes to pick himself off the floor and stop laughing.
24 July 2009, 09:38 AM
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well i would recormend filling filter and removing crank sensor, as i am now on my second scooby after a garage did an oil change without doing the above and YES you can guess 10 mile down the road the bottom end went
24 July 2009, 11:44 AM
#28
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This is how greasemonkey's instructions went
Correct impreza engine oil change procedure
1) Warm engine
2) Drain old oil from sump
3) Remove old filter
4) Pre-fill new filter with fresh oil. Fill and keep filling until it won't take anymore.
5) Apply new filter
6) Apply new washer to sump plug and tighten
7) Fill engine oil filler to mid-way between two holes on the dipstick
8) Disconnect crank sensor
9) (Preferably) remove spark plugs
10) Dry crank engine at least until oil pressure light extinguishes - ideally for 20
seconds or so more.
11) Refit spark plugs
12) Refit crank sensor plug
13) Start engine, leave to idle for a good minute or so before driving for oil pressure to stabilize
14) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
15) Go for slow drive until engine fully warmed
16) Top engine oil to upper hole
17) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
Crank sensor is easy peasy, right at the top front of the block, immediately behind the timing marks on the cambelt cover, underneath the alternator.
Correct impreza engine oil change procedure
1) Warm engine
2) Drain old oil from sump
3) Remove old filter
4) Pre-fill new filter with fresh oil. Fill and keep filling until it won't take anymore.
5) Apply new filter
6) Apply new washer to sump plug and tighten
7) Fill engine oil filler to mid-way between two holes on the dipstick
8) Disconnect crank sensor
9) (Preferably) remove spark plugs
10) Dry crank engine at least until oil pressure light extinguishes - ideally for 20
seconds or so more.
11) Refit spark plugs
12) Refit crank sensor plug
13) Start engine, leave to idle for a good minute or so before driving for oil pressure to stabilize
14) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
15) Go for slow drive until engine fully warmed
16) Top engine oil to upper hole
17) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
Crank sensor is easy peasy, right at the top front of the block, immediately behind the timing marks on the cambelt cover, underneath the alternator.
25 July 2009, 02:54 PM
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You don't have to remove the spark plugs, or sensor, or seats, or sing some special song and do the subaru dance
Just do as ALL Main Dealers do ...... EXCEPT I would always pre-fill the filter (but, in reality that is **** too, as there is no real reason to do it - but, I admit, I do as it feels better!)
Just do as ALL Main Dealers do ...... EXCEPT I would always pre-fill the filter (but, in reality that is **** too, as there is no real reason to do it - but, I admit, I do as it feels better!)
25 July 2009, 03:08 PM
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The actual true procedure was posted here in 2005. and it went like this:-
1. Remove Oil Filler Cap, 'gently' - take at least 5 minutes or the threads will strip and the exhaust will fall off in a weeks time.
2. Carefully jack up the front of car, make sure that only the 'special' car jacking points are used or the steering wheel will be upside down next time you see it (the special jack points are only known to a select few, not the main dealers!)
3. Locate the Sump Plug, do this using an Inspection Lamp with a 100W bulb - do not, under any circumstances, use a bulb of lower wattage or the splash cover under the engine will melt and pieces will be sucked up into the MAF and then immediate engine failure will occur.
4. Undo Sump Plug whilst humming 'Oil Be Home For Xmas' - do NOT sing any other song or the Radio will never tune into any local stations again and the aerial will need to be replaced at the next service.
5. Allow Oil to drain into a Tupperware Perspex Jug - use only perspex as other plastics react with the old oil and particles travel back through the draining oil and attack the Big-End Bearings.
6. Whilst Oil is draining run around car 15 times in a Morris Dancing Outfit with the special Subaru bells attached to shoes.
7. Remove Oil Filter by unscrewing anti-clockwise 5 times, then clockwise 2 times, continue until filter is free ..... failure to do this will result in the new Filter not filling up with Oil on start-up.
8. Fill Oil Filter with Oil and screw new Oil Filter on and replace Sump Plug - there is some discussion about the order that these need to be replaced, many an evening in a B.O. smelling corner of a dark pub has been spent mulling over the merits of both choices ..... there is a 'special' way, but we are not sure what it is yet.
9. Start filling the engine with Oil - Synthetic only please!! and of course, Subarus need 'special' Oil - Mobil made a 'special' Oil just for us!!
10. Now it gets complicated, the engine start procedure ...... remove the spark plugs, coil packs and battery - remove the seats and rear boot/tailgate - ensure Octane Booster is removed from tank as it might spontaneously start the car when you are not ready - take the drive belts off - turn engine over, s....l....o....w....l....y - engine should be turned over at least 67 times to ensure adequate Oil film coverage.
11. Return all components and start engine whilst whistling the theme tune to TITANIC ................ if you are VERY lucky the engine will not shoot a con-rod through the block (this normally happens to MY96 cars which are MicaPink in colour) - but ALL Model Years can be affected equally as bad.
12. If the engine started without any problems, then don't be smug as the MAF sensor will blow up your engine within 3 days in any case!!!!!
OR, do as the Main Dealers do:-
Change Oil - start engine - check for Oil drips - return to customer!!
The sequence has never been better explained
1. Remove Oil Filler Cap, 'gently' - take at least 5 minutes or the threads will strip and the exhaust will fall off in a weeks time.
2. Carefully jack up the front of car, make sure that only the 'special' car jacking points are used or the steering wheel will be upside down next time you see it (the special jack points are only known to a select few, not the main dealers!)
3. Locate the Sump Plug, do this using an Inspection Lamp with a 100W bulb - do not, under any circumstances, use a bulb of lower wattage or the splash cover under the engine will melt and pieces will be sucked up into the MAF and then immediate engine failure will occur.
4. Undo Sump Plug whilst humming 'Oil Be Home For Xmas' - do NOT sing any other song or the Radio will never tune into any local stations again and the aerial will need to be replaced at the next service.
5. Allow Oil to drain into a Tupperware Perspex Jug - use only perspex as other plastics react with the old oil and particles travel back through the draining oil and attack the Big-End Bearings.
6. Whilst Oil is draining run around car 15 times in a Morris Dancing Outfit with the special Subaru bells attached to shoes.
7. Remove Oil Filter by unscrewing anti-clockwise 5 times, then clockwise 2 times, continue until filter is free ..... failure to do this will result in the new Filter not filling up with Oil on start-up.
8. Fill Oil Filter with Oil and screw new Oil Filter on and replace Sump Plug - there is some discussion about the order that these need to be replaced, many an evening in a B.O. smelling corner of a dark pub has been spent mulling over the merits of both choices ..... there is a 'special' way, but we are not sure what it is yet.
9. Start filling the engine with Oil - Synthetic only please!! and of course, Subarus need 'special' Oil - Mobil made a 'special' Oil just for us!!
10. Now it gets complicated, the engine start procedure ...... remove the spark plugs, coil packs and battery - remove the seats and rear boot/tailgate - ensure Octane Booster is removed from tank as it might spontaneously start the car when you are not ready - take the drive belts off - turn engine over, s....l....o....w....l....y - engine should be turned over at least 67 times to ensure adequate Oil film coverage.
11. Return all components and start engine whilst whistling the theme tune to TITANIC ................ if you are VERY lucky the engine will not shoot a con-rod through the block (this normally happens to MY96 cars which are MicaPink in colour) - but ALL Model Years can be affected equally as bad.
12. If the engine started without any problems, then don't be smug as the MAF sensor will blow up your engine within 3 days in any case!!!!!
OR, do as the Main Dealers do:-
Change Oil - start engine - check for Oil drips - return to customer!!
The sequence has never been better explained