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-   -   Oil and filter change (https://www.scoobynet.com/general-technical-10/741023-oil-and-filter-change.html)

scoobymyster 24 January 2009 05:32 PM

Oil and filter change
 
Hi
Would it be possible for someone to talk me through an oil and filter change.
I'm aware that you have to prime the engine after.
Do you need to use a ramp.
What oil and filter is best.
And how much oil will I need.
Don't think it matters but my cars a wrx bug eye.
Thanks for any input

dreamon 24 January 2009 05:43 PM

i would be very interested in knowing how to do this aswell

GlesgaKiss 24 January 2009 06:54 PM

The first reply in this thread should be what you're looking for - https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...ange-help.html

I just jacked the front of my car up, then let it down when it was draining to get everything out: if it's not level it won't drain properly. In hindsight I should have used 4 axle stands or used a friends garage pit.

Just use whatever you can. Probably best if you can borrow a pit because it can be very difficult to remove a tight oil filter with your hands when it's just jacked up and you're lying under it - I had to use a wrench to get the old one off.

My car(a classic turbo) took 4.5 litres to fill, and the oil filter about another couple of hundred mls.

Remember to keep filling the new filter with oil until it's full before you apply it.

So basically you'll need 5 litres of oil.


Hope that helps


Edited to say - I just measured out the 4.5 litres and poured it straight in, and that was the exact amount. The specialist I used told me to do that before hand instead of farting about guessing.

corradoboy 24 January 2009 07:05 PM

Don't bother with stage 8-12. There is no need to disconnect any sensors or remove any plugs !

Warm engine

Drain oil

Prime new filter

Remove old/fit new (primed) filter

Replace sump nut with new compression washer

Fill with 4 litres

Check level and add small amounts, allowing to settle between each until at required level on dipstick (approx 4.5 l)

Run engine for a 10 minutes, then stand for 5 and recheck levels

Top up if necessary

Go for a short, gentle drive

After leaving to stand for 10 mins, recheck levels and check for leaks.

GlesgaKiss 24 January 2009 07:08 PM

Maybe not, but all you need to do is disconnect the crank sensor. Both specialists I have used have built up the oil pressure that way, so it's good enough for me.

SunnySideUp 24 January 2009 07:17 PM

Dis-connecting the sensors is asking for trouble and doesn't need to be done.

Pulling off any connector could make that connection unreliable.

Churning the engine over at low RPM on the starter does more damage than simply starting the damned thing.

When you do an oil change you capture the oil which has drained into the sump and the oil in the filter. There is a lot of oil coating the internal surfaces of all bearings ..... so, why would you want to churn the engine over at low RPM without firing?? Madness!

If it needed doing for any reason other tha being anal, then you would hae to do it EVERY single morning before starting the engine (as, of course, all the oil has drained into the sump overnight, in the same way that it drains on an oil change - no diffeence at all).

So, basically, if you don't have to dis-connect anything after leaving your engine all night ..... then you don't need to do so on an oil change - as the conditions are identical.

But, if it makes you sleep easier ... do it.

scoobymyster 24 January 2009 07:17 PM

Thanks that covers everything
Cheers

JonMc 24 January 2009 07:52 PM


Originally Posted by SunnySideUp (Post 8452179)
Dis-connecting the sensors is asking for trouble and doesn't need to be done.

Pulling off any connector could make that connection unreliable.

Churning the engine over at low RPM on the starter does more damage than simply starting the damned thing.

When you do an oil change you capture the oil which has drained into the sump and the oil in the filter. There is a lot of oil coating the internal surfaces of all bearings ..... so, why would you want to churn the engine over at low RPM without firing?? Madness!

If it needed doing for any reason other tha being anal, then you would hae to do it EVERY single morning before starting the engine (as, of course, all the oil has drained into the sump overnight, in the same way that it drains on an oil change - no diffeence at all).

So, basically, if you don't have to dis-connect anything after leaving your engine all night ..... then you don't need to do so on an oil change - as the conditions are identical.

But, if it makes you sleep easier ... do it.

Probably not 100% correct, if you've warmed the engine first so that the oil is warm, thereby thinner and easier to drain, there is probably a better coating of oil on the engine's internals that when the car has been left standing for a night or 2 on the drive:D

But, as for sensible guidance, spot-on:thumb:


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