Another boost gauge question!! Confused!!
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Inverness
Posts: 743
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Another boost gauge question!! Confused!!
Please would someone tell me with photos if possible, where to plumb my boost gauge into. I know it goes off a vacuum pipe on the inlet manifold but where?
I have just spent the last 2 hours searching this forum for the answer but havent come up with anything solid. The only pics I have seen are for the MY02 with the 3 takeoff points on the inlet manifold behind the alternator. Mine is an 03 wrx and doesnt have these.
Do I connect to the dump valve or the pipe on the left of the inlet manifold with the round valve thing on the pipe? I have read that if I connect to the pipe on the dump valve, this makes a lot of needle movement on the gauge between gear changes - good, bad? Is there somewhere on the inlet manifold that will give a smoother reading, or does it matter? Someone else said to put a needle hole in the T piece to even out the reading, apparently gets rid of fluctuations from inside the manifold. Do I need to do this?
So I have done my home work! Sorry for the long winded explanation but I am more confused now than I was when I started.
Would someone please help?
I have just spent the last 2 hours searching this forum for the answer but havent come up with anything solid. The only pics I have seen are for the MY02 with the 3 takeoff points on the inlet manifold behind the alternator. Mine is an 03 wrx and doesnt have these.
Do I connect to the dump valve or the pipe on the left of the inlet manifold with the round valve thing on the pipe? I have read that if I connect to the pipe on the dump valve, this makes a lot of needle movement on the gauge between gear changes - good, bad? Is there somewhere on the inlet manifold that will give a smoother reading, or does it matter? Someone else said to put a needle hole in the T piece to even out the reading, apparently gets rid of fluctuations from inside the manifold. Do I need to do this?
So I have done my home work! Sorry for the long winded explanation but I am more confused now than I was when I started.
Would someone please help?
#2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 4,312
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b262/mel285p/D2.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b262/mel285p/D1.jpg
Just here next to the dump valve will do just fine
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b262/mel285p/D1.jpg
Just here next to the dump valve will do just fine
#4
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Lancashire & District Subaru Owners
Posts: 1,335
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thats the way I fitted mine too, works fine.
You need a 6mm T piece to connect into the dump valve vacuum hose. Some ppl choose to cut the OEM hose and put the T in the cut. I didn't want to cut the OEM pipe.
Get some 6mm petrol pipe instead, you only need 4inch or so, put that on the dump valve, stick one end of the T into that, other end into the OEM pipe then the top of the T needs to connect to the boost gauge pipe.
LMA motorsport sell 6mm -> 3mm T piece (my boost gauge pipe internal was 3mm). I just used another short section of 6mm pipe, then stepped that down with a straight joiner to 3mm for the boost gauge pipe.
Make sure there's no leaks or the dump valve wont crack and the gauge will read low.
If you get boost gauge chatter or vibration on the needle then you may need a restrictor in the pipe. LMA sell those too, but said sometimes with a subaru you always get a small amount of needle vibration at certain boost regardless.
and you thought you could waffle on lol...
You need a 6mm T piece to connect into the dump valve vacuum hose. Some ppl choose to cut the OEM hose and put the T in the cut. I didn't want to cut the OEM pipe.
Get some 6mm petrol pipe instead, you only need 4inch or so, put that on the dump valve, stick one end of the T into that, other end into the OEM pipe then the top of the T needs to connect to the boost gauge pipe.
LMA motorsport sell 6mm -> 3mm T piece (my boost gauge pipe internal was 3mm). I just used another short section of 6mm pipe, then stepped that down with a straight joiner to 3mm for the boost gauge pipe.
Make sure there's no leaks or the dump valve wont crack and the gauge will read low.
If you get boost gauge chatter or vibration on the needle then you may need a restrictor in the pipe. LMA sell those too, but said sometimes with a subaru you always get a small amount of needle vibration at certain boost regardless.
and you thought you could waffle on lol...
#6
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Inverness
Posts: 743
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I was on the phone to LMA today and are sending me a 6 - 3mm T piece. I suppose time will tell if I get needle vibration.
By saying you connected to the pipe next to the dump valve, do you mean the one that actually fits onto it? Like in the photos above?
By saying you connected to the pipe next to the dump valve, do you mean the one that actually fits onto it? Like in the photos above?
#7
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Lancashire & District Subaru Owners
Posts: 1,335
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yes, the vacuum hose that actually connects to the dump valve, like in the pics. Personally I wouldnt cut that pipe in case you ever have to refit to dmp valve without boost gauge. get some 6mm petrol pipe from halfords etc.
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mattybr5@MB Developments
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
12
18 November 2015 07:03 AM