Major Engine Problems - need URGENT Assistance
#1
Afternoon Boys and Girls, i have a serious problem with my '99 RB5 that i need urgent assistance, advice and a possible problem diagnosis from one of you engine experts.
About 2 days ago i was driving through town and notced that the dump valve wasn't churping as loud as it normally does, so i dropped the gears down to third and put my foot down - No Boost !! The car was very very sluggish to respond and the air filter was sucking really hard and the dump valve was whailing. First i though the FORGE Piston VTA dump valve had jammed (again) so i removed it an put the standard one back on - no luck.
When i start the car it idles beautifully and sounds really meaty. When i rev it it sounds great, no knocking or funny noises from the top and bottom of the engine block. The turbo isn't leaking so im a bit lost.
When i take the car out it runs OK before the boost kicks in with 1st and 2nd gear. But when i get into boost range in 3rd the car is sluggish and jitters. I thought that the fueling might be goosed but dont really know. With the dump vale off, the car still backfires (really loud) when i nail it in 3rd.
I recently had a HKS down pipe put in and an ECU remap (not to boost the car but to just get the fueling and valve timing right) and the car was amazing - now its sick
HELP :P
About 2 days ago i was driving through town and notced that the dump valve wasn't churping as loud as it normally does, so i dropped the gears down to third and put my foot down - No Boost !! The car was very very sluggish to respond and the air filter was sucking really hard and the dump valve was whailing. First i though the FORGE Piston VTA dump valve had jammed (again) so i removed it an put the standard one back on - no luck.
When i start the car it idles beautifully and sounds really meaty. When i rev it it sounds great, no knocking or funny noises from the top and bottom of the engine block. The turbo isn't leaking so im a bit lost.
When i take the car out it runs OK before the boost kicks in with 1st and 2nd gear. But when i get into boost range in 3rd the car is sluggish and jitters. I thought that the fueling might be goosed but dont really know. With the dump vale off, the car still backfires (really loud) when i nail it in 3rd.
I recently had a HKS down pipe put in and an ECU remap (not to boost the car but to just get the fueling and valve timing right) and the car was amazing - now its sick
HELP :P
#3
Hmmm not too sure dowser,
the mods i have are, HKS Downpipe, Jetex SS Exhaust, Forge Dump Valve, Uprated Fuel Pressure Regulator, Power FC ECU, Fuel Pump, Plugs, Solenoid kit then its breaks, handling and cosmetics.
Just had a new MAF sensor from the main dealer about 2 weeks ago (after horrendous idle and stalling problems) been OK for the past 2 weeks since repair
Andy
the mods i have are, HKS Downpipe, Jetex SS Exhaust, Forge Dump Valve, Uprated Fuel Pressure Regulator, Power FC ECU, Fuel Pump, Plugs, Solenoid kit then its breaks, handling and cosmetics.
Just had a new MAF sensor from the main dealer about 2 weeks ago (after horrendous idle and stalling problems) been OK for the past 2 weeks since repair
Andy
#4
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Scotchland
Posts: 9,200
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
is the heat sheild back on round about the turbo? the reason i ask is, it could be leaning against the actuator arm??? had this happen to me a while ago and the symptoms are sort of the same.
let us know if thats the problem bud
let us know if thats the problem bud
#5
So do you have no boost at all ? If so check the actuator arm isnt disconnected (on top of your Turbo)If it's alright but its just running crap on Boost then clean your boost solenoid.
Let us know.
Zippy
Let us know.
Zippy
#6
OK lads i'll go look, unfortunatly im the kind of scooby owner that just drives his car to the garage, tells them what i want then pays at the end - not too sure what a boost solenoid or actuator arm are/look like
i'll go look anyways
i'll go look anyways
#7
OK been outside and looked at the turbo, heat shield is intact and placed as it should be. There were a few exposed wires (not encased in elec. tape) on that deviced that plugs into the down pipe. Sorted them out but still lagging in boost.
When i floor it the engine seems to be SUCKING really hard and the exhaust is poping with the dump valve off.
any ideas ?? Would disconnecting then reconnecting the battery help in any way ??
[Edited by Andy_Razz - 12/28/2003 4:45:35 PM]
When i floor it the engine seems to be SUCKING really hard and the exhaust is poping with the dump valve off.
any ideas ?? Would disconnecting then reconnecting the battery help in any way ??
[Edited by Andy_Razz - 12/28/2003 4:45:35 PM]
Trending Topics
#8
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Scotchland
Posts: 9,200
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the actuator arm is attatched to the actuator arm which is to the left of the turbo, but is attatched TO the turbo. the arm dissappears into the heat sheild. take a set of long nose pliers or a long screwdriver and try to push the arm away from you. it should be tight to move but smooth.
try that m8
try that m8
#9
thanks drb5
i go and have a look at its positioning. Zippy suggested cleaning the boost solenoid, ill try that as well, just as soon as someone tells me where it, how to remove it and how to clean it Really Really new to this DIY lark.
Andy
i go and have a look at its positioning. Zippy suggested cleaning the boost solenoid, ill try that as well, just as soon as someone tells me where it, how to remove it and how to clean it Really Really new to this DIY lark.
Andy
#10
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Scotchland
Posts: 9,200
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
not sure how to clean it exactly, but the solenoid is the wee brown thing on the left hand strut top. in the engine bay. theres a pipe the goes from the t-piece, above the turbo. follow it and ye shall find the end
#13
I have a suggestion that's totally different - I suspect a split pipe somewhere between the compressor outlet & inlet manifold. It would make sense to me as everything's fine until you get a lot of load (so pressure) at which point the split opens up & the air escapes (ie the split probably can't be seen until pressure it put on the system). This would give a lack of high-load boost, utterly appauling fuelling (over) at load (the MAF is measuring air which isn't getting anywhere near the engine ), and the turbo would be working its butt off trying to increase the pressure in the inlet manifold, which isn't going to happen...
The intercooler would have been taken off when the DP was fitted. Something might have split (easily happens), or simply isn't back on again properly.
Worth a look?
The intercooler would have been taken off when the DP was fitted. Something might have split (easily happens), or simply isn't back on again properly.
Worth a look?
#14
thanks all
I think nom has hit the nail on the head. If the turbo is working it's butt off then surly the engine will be sucking in loads more air to compensate. Nom, you have decribed all the problems im having and with the removal of the intercooler for the new Down Pipe the chances are that the pipe has split or come loose.
Ill try and run my car to RC Developments (who installed the DP) tomorrow and i'lllet you all know
thanks for the help guys
Andy
I think nom has hit the nail on the head. If the turbo is working it's butt off then surly the engine will be sucking in loads more air to compensate. Nom, you have decribed all the problems im having and with the removal of the intercooler for the new Down Pipe the chances are that the pipe has split or come loose.
Ill try and run my car to RC Developments (who installed the DP) tomorrow and i'lllet you all know
thanks for the help guys
Andy
#15
well guys, i just got my car back from the Main Dealer and nom, you were dead right !! One of the outlet pipes had not been attached securly underneith the intercooler. I told the mechanic what we though it was and he went straigh there for the inspection. Car was fixed in an hour and now im back tearing up the tarmac of the Wirral
Nice one nom, help appreciated
Happy NEW YEAR ALL
Andy
Nice one nom, help appreciated
Happy NEW YEAR ALL
Andy
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MightyArsenal
Wheels, Tyres & Brakes
6
25 September 2015 08:31 PM