Fuel economy gone down the pan.. and idle and cold start is occasionally rough..
07 February 2003, 12:59 PM
#1
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Likely to be Lambda or possibly MAF 
Fuel economy good indicator but should be least of your worries considering the potential engine melt that could occur
Get it checked ASAP and take it VERY easy in the meantime
Cheers and good luck
[Edited by SiPie - 7/2/2003 1:31:42 PM]
Fuel economy good indicator but should be least of your worries considering the potential engine melt that could occur
Get it checked ASAP and take it VERY easy in the meantime
Cheers and good luck
[Edited by SiPie - 7/2/2003 1:31:42 PM]
07 February 2003, 11:14 PM
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Steven: ok mate. hows weekend of 12th/13th??
let me know.
Sipie: thanks mate.. will take it v easy..
knowing my luck probably both (MAF and Lambda)
btw nom: no cats to kill
but yeah the wallet is taking a bashing..
[Edited by chrome - 7/2/2003 11:15:28 PM]
let me know.
Sipie: thanks mate.. will take it v easy..
knowing my luck probably both
(MAF and Lambda)btw nom: no cats to kill
but yeah the wallet is taking a bashing..[Edited by chrome - 7/2/2003 11:15:28 PM]
02 July 2003, 12:35 PM
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is my lamdba about to give up the ghost??
easy to replace? (im a mechanical muppet btw)
Had it a few times where idling on cold start and revs suddenly drop and engine stalls..
and my fuel economy is to put it plainly: crap. its a uk car too..
(using optimax- returning about 16-20 mpg per tank on average)
any thoughts?
easy to replace? (im a mechanical muppet btw)
Had it a few times where idling on cold start and revs suddenly drop and engine stalls..
and my fuel economy is to put it plainly: crap. its a uk car too..
(using optimax- returning about 16-20 mpg per tank on average)
any thoughts?
02 July 2003, 02:04 PM
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Err, why didnt you tell me this yesterday. If you need a MAF to test let me know, as i have 2 spares. In fact get yourself upto mine and you can try them
Steven
Steven
02 July 2003, 03:08 PM
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Think it's probably the lambda, though!
Easy to change, as long as you don't try to rush it (pile on WD40, wait for a couple of hours, give it a jiggle, pile on more, etc. etc.).
The lambda, when it's on its way out, reads rich, ie the 'economy' will be pants. Only worry would be bore wash (you'd need to be pretty unlucky though!) and in the long term potentially poisoning your cats, if you have any
. Oh, and your wallet
Easy to change, as long as you don't try to rush it (pile on WD40, wait for a couple of hours, give it a jiggle, pile on more, etc. etc.).
The lambda, when it's on its way out, reads rich, ie the 'economy' will be pants. Only worry would be bore wash (you'd need to be pretty unlucky though!) and in the long term potentially poisoning your cats, if you have any
. Oh, and your wallet
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04 July 2003, 12:32 PM
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hm. got there and TSL reckon it sounds like what happended to gridlock' car - "duty cycle solenoid" and I havent got time today to get it looked at.
anyone care to explain what duty cycle solenoid is??? (and how expensive to fix?)
anyone care to explain what duty cycle solenoid is??? (and how expensive to fix?)
04 July 2003, 01:36 PM
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Hiya Chrome,
On the top of ya engine, infront of the IC, bang in the centre is a silver cylinder about 2 inches long with an electrical connector on the right hand side. This is said solenoid.
This solenoid houses a "stepper" type motor which recieves electrical impulses from wherever, probably the ECU and dependent on what the engine is doing, so the voltage is different, this translates into solenoid moving an actuator arm backwards and forwards which in turn effects the idling speed at stand still.
Normally the arm is fairly free moving, but in my case, it was covered in crap and would open freely, but the actuator arm would sometimes catch when trying to close. With the throttle position closed, and the vehicle coming to a stop, the ecu would expect certain parameters to have been met and fuel accordingly, so coming to a stop would result in less fuel being demanded. Fine if the solenoid was properly closed, if stuck open, even a tiny bit, the ecu gets a duff/conflicting reading and thinks that you have put ya foot on the acellerator (sp?) it demands more fuel, engine revs rise, but the ECU knows that you have not moved so the cycle repeats itself.
To us mere mortals, it manifests itself as "hunting at idle" You know, down to almost stalling (Actually stalling in some cases) then flying up to 1200,1500 rpm then straight back down again and so on, eventually stabalising as the solenoid is "rocked" free.
Now don't get me wrong, this is what it was on MY car, no doubt a failing MAF could give the same symptoms, but before you all dive for the MAF, take the solenoid of (Careful, don't drop the little screws ) gently pull the solenoid out to its fully extended position, clear all the black gunk that is mingled into the spring and along the arm, re apply some high temp grease, not tons, put it back on, turn the key and go fo a blast. If ya car is still "hunting" it wasn't that, but at least you know
By the way, when you turn the key for the first time, the car will take a little longer to start, this is because the solenoid is "booting up" and needs to find it's place.
Hope this helps someone out there. Also, please bear in mind that this was a leymans explination and it's how I understand it. Don't give me a hard time if it's not 100% correct i.e the solenoid is closed not open etc. The important bit was the where it is and how to clean it
Mikey
On the top of ya engine, infront of the IC, bang in the centre is a silver cylinder about 2 inches long with an electrical connector on the right hand side. This is said solenoid.
This solenoid houses a "stepper" type motor which recieves electrical impulses from wherever, probably the ECU and dependent on what the engine is doing, so the voltage is different, this translates into solenoid moving an actuator arm backwards and forwards which in turn effects the idling speed at stand still.
Normally the arm is fairly free moving, but in my case, it was covered in crap and would open freely, but the actuator arm would sometimes catch when trying to close. With the throttle position closed, and the vehicle coming to a stop, the ecu would expect certain parameters to have been met and fuel accordingly, so coming to a stop would result in less fuel being demanded. Fine if the solenoid was properly closed, if stuck open, even a tiny bit, the ecu gets a duff/conflicting reading and thinks that you have put ya foot on the acellerator (sp?) it demands more fuel, engine revs rise, but the ECU knows that you have not moved so the cycle repeats itself.
To us mere mortals, it manifests itself as "hunting at idle" You know, down to almost stalling (Actually stalling in some cases) then flying up to 1200,1500 rpm then straight back down again and so on, eventually stabalising as the solenoid is "rocked" free.
Now don't get me wrong, this is what it was on MY car, no doubt a failing MAF could give the same symptoms, but before you all dive for the MAF, take the solenoid of (Careful, don't drop the little screws
) gently pull the solenoid out to its fully extended position, clear all the black gunk that is mingled into the spring and along the arm, re apply some high temp grease, not tons, put it back on, turn the key and go fo a blast. If ya car is still "hunting" it wasn't that, but at least you knowBy the way, when you turn the key for the first time, the car will take a little longer to start, this is because the solenoid is "booting up" and needs to find it's place.
Hope this helps someone out there. Also, please bear in mind that this was a leymans explination and it's how I understand it. Don't give me a hard time if it's not 100% correct i.e the solenoid is closed not open etc. The important bit was the where it is and how to clean it
Mikey
05 July 2003, 09:05 PM
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I assume they are talking about BOOST duty cycle solenoid, if thats the case its on the drivers side suspension stut. A quick clean with brake cleaner could cure the problem.
Steven
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