rear wheelbearing replacement?
#1
rear wheelbearing replacement?
Got what APPEARS to be rear wheelbearing trouble on my '98 Uk car at the moment, but will hopefully know better by next wednesday.
I've been quoted around £75 per side for modified bearings and another £15 for seals, plus VAT, of course!
My question is: how easy is it to do? Will I need special tools? Is it best to leave it to a repairer?
TIA
Alcazar
I've been quoted around £75 per side for modified bearings and another £15 for seals, plus VAT, of course!
My question is: how easy is it to do? Will I need special tools? Is it best to leave it to a repairer?
TIA
Alcazar
#5
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is the car new shape or old m8
£60 labour for both sides doesnt sound too bad
bearings sound stupid price
see if you can find out the part no for the bearing you need and try a bearing factor
richie
£60 labour for both sides doesnt sound too bad
bearings sound stupid price
see if you can find out the part no for the bearing you need and try a bearing factor
richie
#6
It's a '98 UK car, so oldish shape:
Apparently, according to partman at dealer, the bearings have been a problem for some time on this model, so a "modified" bearing is available, using roller bearings instead of ball-bearings. £72.28 per side, and 3 seals per side at about £5 each, plus the dreaded VAT.
I thought £60 labour was quite good too?
Alcazar
Apparently, according to partman at dealer, the bearings have been a problem for some time on this model, so a "modified" bearing is available, using roller bearings instead of ball-bearings. £72.28 per side, and 3 seals per side at about £5 each, plus the dreaded VAT.
I thought £60 labour was quite good too?
Alcazar
#7
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if the standard ones have lasted 6 years id use those
failing that get a new one with seals from dealer on the understanding that if it doesnt fit you can take it back
take it to a bearing factor to see what they can do they may have seals as well-cash usally gets the best price
take the bearing that doesnt fit back to the dealer
job done nothing lost apart from time- and money saved hopefully(50% or thereabouts)
mail you now
richie
failing that get a new one with seals from dealer on the understanding that if it doesnt fit you can take it back
take it to a bearing factor to see what they can do they may have seals as well-cash usally gets the best price
take the bearing that doesnt fit back to the dealer
job done nothing lost apart from time- and money saved hopefully(50% or thereabouts)
mail you now
richie
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#8
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just a thought but if your m8 has a press and the back end in bits a smattering of powerflex may be in order shouls make quite a difference to the handling for not much extra labour cost
richie
ps manual sent but hotmail may bounce it cos of its size
richie
ps manual sent but hotmail may bounce it cos of its size
#10
doh!
Back end already done with Whiteline arb, solid droplinks etc. Owt else needed?
Alcazar
PS: could you try to mail it to: pughr@castledyke.ngfl.myschools.net
please? (wife's addy)
TIA
Alcazar
Back end already done with Whiteline arb, solid droplinks etc. Owt else needed?
Alcazar
PS: could you try to mail it to: pughr@castledyke.ngfl.myschools.net
please? (wife's addy)
TIA
Alcazar
Last edited by alcazar; 04 September 2004 at 10:32 AM.
#12
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too big for that addy as well
some downloads here http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=316785
richie
some downloads here http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=316785
richie
Last edited by richieh; 04 September 2004 at 01:20 PM.
#13
tozerman to the rescue!!!!!!!!!
I started a Thread on this about a month ago.here is how I got on....
I have a my97 so I assume it is the same for you, I got my bearing kits from
Midland Car Parts in Derby (01332 378090) for £40 each side
The kits include Bearing and 3 x oil seals, the quality is OE spec, the part numbers and codes on the new one were exactly the same as the original one that came out and they were about £75 cheaper than from the Main Dealer. You will have to get new driveshaft nuts from the dealer @ £7 each as they are not in the kit.
I would advise you to only do this yourself if you have a good size garage with bench and large vice..
You will need a 32mm socket to undo the hub nut, the most dificult thing I found was getting the old suspension bolts undone as they were a bit rusty after 7 years.
You will need to remove the whole hub ***'y from the and take it to your bench, you can drive the old bearing out using the inner bearing
If you do not have a bench vice you will need a garage to press the new bearing into the hub...MAKE SURE THE INNER BEARING IS IN PLACE WHEN YOU DO THIS.. if using a vice use the old bearing case as a drift
As they say assembly is the reverse of removal..retourque new hub nut to 150ft lbs good luck and take your time and it will be OK
nearly forgot the part number is QWB916 OR TBK845 (SAME PART)
I have a my97 so I assume it is the same for you, I got my bearing kits from
Midland Car Parts in Derby (01332 378090) for £40 each side
The kits include Bearing and 3 x oil seals, the quality is OE spec, the part numbers and codes on the new one were exactly the same as the original one that came out and they were about £75 cheaper than from the Main Dealer. You will have to get new driveshaft nuts from the dealer @ £7 each as they are not in the kit.
I would advise you to only do this yourself if you have a good size garage with bench and large vice..
You will need a 32mm socket to undo the hub nut, the most dificult thing I found was getting the old suspension bolts undone as they were a bit rusty after 7 years.
You will need to remove the whole hub ***'y from the and take it to your bench, you can drive the old bearing out using the inner bearing
If you do not have a bench vice you will need a garage to press the new bearing into the hub...MAKE SURE THE INNER BEARING IS IN PLACE WHEN YOU DO THIS.. if using a vice use the old bearing case as a drift
As they say assembly is the reverse of removal..retourque new hub nut to 150ft lbs good luck and take your time and it will be OK
nearly forgot the part number is QWB916 OR TBK845 (SAME PART)
#14
Thanks for that. Are those part numbers from a bearing supplier then? We actually have one of those in sunny Scunny:
No Scoob dealer for 30 odd miles though:
Do the bearings come with seals, or do I need part numbers for seals too? Any ideas of part numbers for the large nuts?
Thanks,
Alcazar
No Scoob dealer for 30 odd miles though:
Do the bearings come with seals, or do I need part numbers for seals too? Any ideas of part numbers for the large nuts?
Thanks,
Alcazar
#15
The QWB916 is the quinton hazel part number, any motor factors can cross reference it over..They do come with seals..not sure about the part numbers for the nuts though..If you are stuck use the n/s one on the o/s and vice versa that way the staked part will be in a different position..
It will be worth a trip to Derby for you at that price..we also have a main dealer for the nuts..pre-order them though as they do not keep them in stock.
It will be worth a trip to Derby for you at that price..we also have a main dealer for the nuts..pre-order them though as they do not keep them in stock.
#18
Originally Posted by tozerman
They are the roller type bearings...Good idea about the wheel alignment.As you probably know every time a suspension part is replaced a full 4 wheel alignment is recomended
If I've already got a Whiteline arb with it's owen bushes and solid droplinks with their own bushes, what's left at the rear, please anyone?
Alcazar
#20
With regard to E mail for Manuel. Open an account at
www.walla.com.
Free 1G e mail there. Only a have to register and its free.
SG
www.walla.com.
Free 1G e mail there. Only a have to register and its free.
SG
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