4.5litres is it?
22 July 2004, 08:31 PM
#2
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Originally Posted by louis d maclennan
i have 99 type ra-how much oil does engine take from empty 4.5litres is it?
22 July 2004, 09:21 PM
#4
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Originally Posted by S.B.
More oil with a smaller filter?
23 July 2004, 06:55 AM
#6
Arn't you all missing the point?
If you fill and soak the filter, this will take about 3 fillings of the filter as the papers soak it all in, fit and fill the engine with 4 litres that is a good starting point to crank the engine with out plugs and crank sensor connected. Churn for 20 secs, plugs/sensor back in and fire up for 30 secs.
Stop engine for coffee allowing the engine to drain to sump. Then check/fill to get the cold engine level to mid way min/max mark.
If you stick 4.5/4.6 in the level could be too full=boost soleniod disaster (or worse).
What do you think?
911
If you fill and soak the filter, this will take about 3 fillings of the filter as the papers soak it all in, fit and fill the engine with 4 litres that is a good starting point to crank the engine with out plugs and crank sensor connected. Churn for 20 secs, plugs/sensor back in and fire up for 30 secs.
Stop engine for coffee allowing the engine to drain to sump. Then check/fill to get the cold engine level to mid way min/max mark.
If you stick 4.5/4.6 in the level could be too full=boost soleniod disaster (or worse).
What do you think?
911
23 July 2004, 11:22 AM
#7
Scooby Regular
Well, when I changed mine (MY00) I filled the filter first properly and fitted that. I've put a GOOD 4.5 litres into it and its only just over the half way point cold and once warm about bang on the F level.
Gearbox on the other hand took under 4 litres. Read many times on Snet that its 4litres and I had to drain and refil after putting 4 litres in and it went about 3cm past the F - is now bang on F so about 1cm above the F hole.
Gearbox on the other hand took under 4 litres. Read many times on Snet that its 4litres and I had to drain and refil after putting 4 litres in and it went about 3cm past the F - is now bang on F so about 1cm above the F hole.
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23 July 2004, 11:38 AM
#8
Put in about 4 litres then wait 30 seconds, start him up for a few seconds, trun off, wait for 30 seconds and then check the level and add whatever is needed 1/2 a pint at a time, wait and re-check...don't just dump the whole 4.5 litres in one go.
Once mine took 4.2 litres of engine oil, another time it took 4.8litres - depends on how accurate your measuring is, and if the oil company short changed you on the bottle of oil and also how much was drained out!
Apprently it's good to overfill the gearbox oil slightly as it provides more splash lubrication to 3rd gear
Once mine took 4.2 litres of engine oil, another time it took 4.8litres - depends on how accurate your measuring is, and if the oil company short changed you on the bottle of oil and also how much was drained out!
Apprently it's good to overfill the gearbox oil slightly as it provides more splash lubrication to 3rd gear
Last edited by ALi-B; 23 July 2004 at 11:40 AM.
23 July 2004, 04:41 PM
#9
Bloody elllllllllllllll
Changing the oil is such an easy task and you lot are treating it though its some special scientific experiment!!
I've had loads of high performance cars and whilst what is said is theoretically correct in practice I wouldnt give a monkey's
All I do is:
1. Take off sump plug - drain
2. Take off oil filter
3. Put on new filter
4. Put back on sump plug
5. fill it with about 4.6-4.7 litres of oil, check it on the dip after a few mins and hey presto - done - none of this fill the filter, take the spark plugs out, etc
However it would make good advertising for a Scoob Main dealer (who dont do it the theory route!) - '' That'll be £100 for an oil and filter change sir...........''
Changing the oil is such an easy task and you lot are treating it though its some special scientific experiment!!
I've had loads of high performance cars and whilst what is said is theoretically correct in practice I wouldnt give a monkey's
All I do is:
1. Take off sump plug - drain
2. Take off oil filter
3. Put on new filter
4. Put back on sump plug
5. fill it with about 4.6-4.7 litres of oil, check it on the dip after a few mins and hey presto - done - none of this fill the filter, take the spark plugs out, etc
However it would make good advertising for a Scoob Main dealer (who dont do it the theory route!) - '' That'll be £100 for an oil and filter change sir...........''
23 July 2004, 06:06 PM
#10
Fangoria, you are probably right. I dont faf about with all this on my 911 engine, drain engine and oil tank (its a dry sump), change filter (dry because its a horizontal fit), fill with 12 litres (911's are really oil cooled), run till hot and check while running/fill to suit half way mark.
No crank sensors/plugs messing.
BUT, the sequence above should ensure the air in the pump is cleared/filter primed before wear sets in on No 3 big end.
I'd rather be safe than sorry....
Porsche engineering maybe more robust than Subaru?
911
No crank sensors/plugs messing.
BUT, the sequence above should ensure the air in the pump is cleared/filter primed before wear sets in on No 3 big end.
I'd rather be safe than sorry....
Porsche engineering maybe more robust than Subaru?
911
23 July 2004, 10:37 PM
#11
911
My wife wants me to but a 911 Turbo.........and get shot of these pesky Scoobs ( I bought her a wrx 04 a couple of months ago........ got it ecuteked straight away which is nice but not what she wants!!)
I test drove one a couple of yrs ago for a weekend from Porsche and wasn't impressed - however I have no doubt that a 550-650bhp version would be nice!! although as one of my friends owns a Ferrari/Maserati dealership I suspect that a Ferrari is the most likely next option for an old timer like myself!!
My wife wants me to but a 911 Turbo.........and get shot of these pesky Scoobs ( I bought her a wrx 04 a couple of months ago........ got it ecuteked straight away which is nice but not what she wants!!)
I test drove one a couple of yrs ago for a weekend from Porsche and wasn't impressed - however I have no doubt that a 550-650bhp version would be nice!! although as one of my friends owns a Ferrari/Maserati dealership I suspect that a Ferrari is the most likely next option for an old timer like myself!!
24 July 2004, 07:00 AM
#12
Bloodyelllllllllll !
My 911 is a classic, 1973, lowered to the cats eyes, turbo suspension and a 3200cc injected engine, chipped of course.
Absolute magic, wife won't let me sell it (has it for 16 years now) as this funny white Rice Bowl won't last long enough!
Buy her one, you know it makes sense.....reliable too.
911
My 911 is a classic, 1973, lowered to the cats eyes, turbo suspension and a 3200cc injected engine, chipped of course.
Absolute magic, wife won't let me sell it (has it for 16 years now) as this funny white Rice Bowl won't last long enough!
Buy her one, you know it makes sense.....reliable too.
911
25 July 2004, 07:20 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by Fangoria
Bloody elllllllllllllll
Changing the oil is such an easy task and you lot are treating it though its some special scientific experiment!!
I've had loads of high performance cars and whilst what is said is theoretically correct in practice I wouldnt give a monkey's
All I do is:
1. Take off sump plug - drain
2. Take off oil filter
3. Put on new filter
4. Put back on sump plug
5. fill it with about 4.6-4.7 litres of oil, check it on the dip after a few mins and hey presto - done - none of this fill the filter, take the spark plugs out, etc
However it would make good advertising for a Scoob Main dealer (who dont do it the theory route!) - '' That'll be £100 for an oil and filter change sir...........''
Changing the oil is such an easy task and you lot are treating it though its some special scientific experiment!!
I've had loads of high performance cars and whilst what is said is theoretically correct in practice I wouldnt give a monkey's
All I do is:
1. Take off sump plug - drain
2. Take off oil filter
3. Put on new filter
4. Put back on sump plug
5. fill it with about 4.6-4.7 litres of oil, check it on the dip after a few mins and hey presto - done - none of this fill the filter, take the spark plugs out, etc
However it would make good advertising for a Scoob Main dealer (who dont do it the theory route!) - '' That'll be £100 for an oil and filter change sir...........''
If you're doing oil changes that way on a Subaru, you had better keep my phone number with you at all times because you WILL need it.
Because of the way Flat 4 Soob engines work they are very susceptible to bearing scuff on oil change.
Still, people changing oil " the way I've always done it ", keeps me in business doing 3 plus rebuilds a week.
I agree it doesn't seem a problem on Volks and Porsche but it is on a Subaru and you should take care.
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
25 July 2004, 07:52 PM
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This seems to be the most recognised method 
:-
Cheers
:-
1) Warm engine
2) Drain old oil from sump
3) Remove old filter
4) Pre-fill new filter with fresh oil. Fill and keep filling until it won't take anymore.
5) Apply new filter
6) Apply new washer to sump plug and tighten
7) Fill engine oil filler to mid-way between two holes on the dipstick
8) Disconnect crank sensor
9) (Preferably) remove spark plugs
10) Dry crank engine at least until oil pressure light extinguishes - ideally for 20 seconds or so more.
11) Refit spark plugs
12) Refit crank sensor plug
13) Start engine, leave to idle for a good minute or so before driving for oil pressure to stabilise
14) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
15) Go for slow drive until engine fully warmed
16) Top engine oil to upper hole
17) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
Taken from greasemonkeys thread
2) Drain old oil from sump
3) Remove old filter
4) Pre-fill new filter with fresh oil. Fill and keep filling until it won't take anymore.
5) Apply new filter
6) Apply new washer to sump plug and tighten
7) Fill engine oil filler to mid-way between two holes on the dipstick
8) Disconnect crank sensor
9) (Preferably) remove spark plugs
10) Dry crank engine at least until oil pressure light extinguishes - ideally for 20 seconds or so more.
11) Refit spark plugs
12) Refit crank sensor plug
13) Start engine, leave to idle for a good minute or so before driving for oil pressure to stabilise
14) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
15) Go for slow drive until engine fully warmed
16) Top engine oil to upper hole
17) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
Taken from greasemonkeys thread
04 August 2004, 09:16 AM
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Rather than physically removing the plugs, could you just disconnect the HT leads to stop them fireing and crank the engine with the starter motor for 30 seconds or so?
04 August 2004, 09:30 AM
#16
crank sensor removal prevents the engine from firing (and from fuelling).
removal of the sparkplugs is the safest possible way as although the pistons are not firing they are still comressing - removal of the plugs takes the compression pressure out of the equation. most people would say this is overkill, it cannot do any harm but it adds a lot of time to the job!
most would just do the crank sensor disconnection.
removal of the sparkplugs is the safest possible way as although the pistons are not firing they are still comressing - removal of the plugs takes the compression pressure out of the equation. most people would say this is overkill, it cannot do any harm but it adds a lot of time to the job!
most would just do the crank sensor disconnection.
04 August 2004, 09:42 AM
#17
API David
Hopefully I wont have to call on your excellent services.....well not just yet anyway
But there aint no way I'm removing spark plugs/crank sensor.........
Hopefully I wont have to call on your excellent services.....well not just yet anyway
But there aint no way I'm removing spark plugs/crank sensor.........
04 August 2004, 12:43 PM
#20
Bit of a fiddle to get to it, but, having just taken my engine out, down to API (only for head gaskets) and all the way back, to master the Crank Sensor is a joke compared to the effort if the motor scuffs a big-end.....
I favour the plugs out in addition, but i would like to meet the turkey in Subaru who put the heads so close to the chassis legs....
911
I favour the plugs out in addition, but i would like to meet the turkey in Subaru who put the heads so close to the chassis legs....
911
04 August 2004, 03:54 PM
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I am with Fangoria on this.
I can just see the young YTS being told to do the above procedure on servicing a scoob!
The Impreza would have never have got to the top of a JD Power survey if you have to frig about with it no end just to change the oil. Where are all the UK blown up cars. A minus would have been noted in the survey surely as being great whiles it's not in the garage having a new engine built.
I read these threads with such disbelief that an engine designer can build such a pi$$ poor engine which is what is being implied.
In reality I bet hardly anyone actually follows that oil change procedure.
Damian.
I can just see the young YTS being told to do the above procedure on servicing a scoob!
The Impreza would have never have got to the top of a JD Power survey if you have to frig about with it no end just to change the oil. Where are all the UK blown up cars. A minus would have been noted in the survey surely as being great whiles it's not in the garage having a new engine built.
I read these threads with such disbelief that an engine designer can build such a pi$$ poor engine which is what is being implied.
In reality I bet hardly anyone actually follows that oil change procedure.
Damian.
04 August 2004, 04:39 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by 911
Bit of a fiddle to get to it, but, having just taken my engine out, down to API (only for head gaskets) and all the way back, to master the Crank Sensor is a joke compared to the effort if the motor scuffs a big-end.....
I favour the plugs out in addition, but i would like to meet the turkey in Subaru who put the heads so close to the chassis legs....
911
I favour the plugs out in addition, but i would like to meet the turkey in Subaru who put the heads so close to the chassis legs....
911
It's mostly JDM cars that suffer from the crank problem in the UK and whilst running on the correct fuel in Japan it just doesn't happen, except occasionally. They almost certainly do careless oil changes over there, just the same as happens over here. The difference is that the engine isn't pinking its brains out on the wrong fuel and overloading the oil cushion between the rod and the crank.
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
04 August 2004, 06:43 PM
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If you think the oil change procedure is bad on a Subaru, then you should see the one for my TVR Griffith... (similar procedure to the Scoob and similar reasons why you should do it.)
04 August 2004, 09:06 PM
#26
Ollie, don't forget the long suffering rear diff! It only needs about 1 litre.
David, You have been very quiet lately!
The same guy did the same chassis/engine job on my 911 too.....
911
David, You have been very quiet lately!
The same guy did the same chassis/engine job on my 911 too.....
911
04 August 2004, 10:24 PM
#27
dnb
Gives me a headache just thinking about the issues with the Griffiths........ never mind the servicing............
You can always rotate the breakdown cover with several of them
Cant wait to see a TVR Tuscan on track at Coombe on the 16th................ nice and fast but oh dear when we have a bend its by-by and a nice 360 pirroet (sp)
Gives me a headache just thinking about the issues with the Griffiths........ never mind the servicing............
You can always rotate the breakdown cover with several of them
Cant wait to see a TVR Tuscan on track at Coombe on the 16th................ nice and fast but oh dear when we have a bend its by-by and a nice 360 pirroet (sp)
05 August 2004, 08:57 AM
#28
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Originally Posted by 911
Ollie, don't forget the long suffering rear diff! It only needs about 1 litre.
David, You have been very quiet lately!
The same guy did the same chassis/engine job on my 911 too.....
911
David, You have been very quiet lately!
The same guy did the same chassis/engine job on my 911 too.....
911
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
08 August 2004, 11:30 AM
#29
Originally Posted by dnb
If you think the oil change procedure is bad on a Subaru, then you should see the one for my TVR Griffith... (similar procedure to the Scoob and similar reasons why you should do it.)
I'd like to see someone do it on a TVR 350i - the filter is upside down
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