Got another project :D NON IMPREZA.
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Got another project :D NON IMPREZA.
Right if anyone has seen my Sportrak up for sale, this is the reason why.
I have just agreed to buy a Series 3, 88 inch, SWB Ex RAF Landrover on a 1971 Tax Exempt plate, with a small 3.9 V8 engine lol. Going to need a bit of work to get on the road, but having a Galvanised chassis, that cuts down on the horror stories.
So looks like my summer is going to be fun, as there isn't much I can do to my Impreza now apart from mapping, and I cannot afford that as yet.
The Landy should be paid for from selling my jeep and all the bits I have for the Sportrak. And with insurance being £120 a year and FREE tax its gonna be cheaper on everything bar fuel lol.
Anyways here's the pics, I will post some up when I collect the Landy sometime in the next 2 weeks.
And here is its original RAF colours (although a different car I don`t think I'll go for arch extensions either), if anyone knows how I can trace its history let me know
I have just agreed to buy a Series 3, 88 inch, SWB Ex RAF Landrover on a 1971 Tax Exempt plate, with a small 3.9 V8 engine lol. Going to need a bit of work to get on the road, but having a Galvanised chassis, that cuts down on the horror stories.
So looks like my summer is going to be fun, as there isn't much I can do to my Impreza now apart from mapping, and I cannot afford that as yet.
The Landy should be paid for from selling my jeep and all the bits I have for the Sportrak. And with insurance being £120 a year and FREE tax its gonna be cheaper on everything bar fuel lol.
Anyways here's the pics, I will post some up when I collect the Landy sometime in the next 2 weeks.
And here is its original RAF colours (although a different car I don`t think I'll go for arch extensions either), if anyone knows how I can trace its history let me know
Last edited by Jimbob; 28 July 2012 at 08:30 PM.
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Main thing is engine and setting up the carbs, as I've a sneaky suspicion its runing 3.5 jets for the 3.9, and I'll need to get them set up properly. But engine out stripped rebuild and painted
I've not been this excited about a project car since I was 16!!
Ebay ad.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1307270335...593%26_rdc%3D1
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They are brilliant tools,Phil's has the V8 and he rebuilt the motor and now sounds great!
The Rapier comes with a twin skin chassis and is 3.9 tons when fully built up
He has even got hold of some missile shells with box's to go in the back with the control box's to boot.
I'll get some pic's up for you tomorrow
The Rapier comes with a twin skin chassis and is 3.9 tons when fully built up
He has even got hold of some missile shells with box's to go in the back with the control box's to boot.
I'll get some pic's up for you tomorrow
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They are brilliant tools,Phil's has the V8 and he rebuilt the motor and now sounds great!
The Rapier comes with a twin skin chassis and is 3.9 tons when fully built up
He has even got hold of some missile shells with box's to go in the back with the control box's to boot.
I'll get some pic's up for you tomorrow
The Rapier comes with a twin skin chassis and is 3.9 tons when fully built up
He has even got hold of some missile shells with box's to go in the back with the control box's to boot.
I'll get some pic's up for you tomorrow
Would be really good to get the landy all made back up as if it was still in the RAF, I'm guessing I'd need the chassis number and try and find anything on the chassis as a marker, as I'd imagine it would be pretty hard.
Anyone wanna buy my Daihatsu Sportrak?? lol.
https://www.scoobynet.com/other-marq...-sportrak.html
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Basically, by the looks of it now I'll need a half shaft, as the gears engage but it doesn`t go anywhere, and there is no crunching like a diff. Was beached in mud and they tried to use the engine to get them out, but it decided to break something. The props spin but it does nothing lol.
Then there is Roof, it hasn't got one, not even a tilt.
And then there is balancing the SU's never done it before, they were off a 3.5 but had new jets, but never been set up.
Would love a PTO capstan winch, but I don`t know if that is possible lol.
That hopefully will be it, but I'm preparing for more.
I do hope so, the sound of a V8 rumbling to a 4x4 whine will be great.
Last edited by Jimbob; 15 July 2012 at 09:07 PM.
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Who the **** paints a Landy purple!!
Hope you like rubbing down as you and sheets of sandpaper are going to become best mates
I notice it has no servo, must be an early brake system which with a V8 will be interesting to say the least.
A good start tho with a Galv chassis .
Hope you like rubbing down as you and sheets of sandpaper are going to become best mates
I notice it has no servo, must be an early brake system which with a V8 will be interesting to say the least.
A good start tho with a Galv chassis .
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Cheers Ian will do. Gonna need as much advise as I can get lol. May need my crane back some time tho to get this V8 out. Lol.
Yeah I noticed that too lol. How hard would it be to fit a vacuum assisted master cylinder, or would it be too hard? When I saw tax exempt and galv chassis that kind of ticked all the boxes. With it being swb and a v8 that made it too tempting.
Oh I will as I'll probably need some form of verbal advise for something or other.
As said via text rich looks like a snapped half shaft but will see when I get it back.
Who the **** paints a Landy purple!!
Hope you like rubbing down as you and sheets of sandpaper are going to become best mates
I notice it has no servo, must be an early brake system which with a V8 will be interesting to say the least.
A good start tho with a Galv chassis .
Hope you like rubbing down as you and sheets of sandpaper are going to become best mates
I notice it has no servo, must be an early brake system which with a V8 will be interesting to say the least.
A good start tho with a Galv chassis .
As said via text rich looks like a snapped half shaft but will see when I get it back.
Last edited by Jimbob; 16 July 2012 at 03:29 PM.
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The early series 3 had no servo as they were using up parts from the 2a parts bin I expect but they were fitted to the later models.
You could fit a remote servo but easier to fit a later OEM series 3 servo which are only around £65 new.
TBH brakes are not a strong point so with a V8 fitted you will need to plan ahead
A galv chassis is always a good starting point.
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The early series 3 had no servo as they were using up parts from the 2a parts bin I expect but they were fitted to the later models.
You could fit a remote servo but easier to fit a later OEM series 3 servo which are only around £65 new.
TBH brakes are not a strong point so with a V8 fitted you will need to plan ahead
A galv chassis is always a good starting point.
You could fit a remote servo but easier to fit a later OEM series 3 servo which are only around £65 new.
TBH brakes are not a strong point so with a V8 fitted you will need to plan ahead
A galv chassis is always a good starting point.
Main thing tho is getting her water tight ish, as she has no roof/door tops etc. But for now its choosing which way to go get her, as I'd prefer a recovery flat bed, but its getting one.
Ad then when put together balancing the carbs, as they are off a 3.5, but apparently has bigger jets, so its getting them set up correctly.
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Been advised to get 110 brakes as they are designed for the heavier vehicle. Also told that TD5 axles are a straight swap and they would come with disks.
Main thing tho is getting her water tight ish, as she has no roof/door tops etc. But for now its choosing which way to go get her, as I'd prefer a recovery flat bed, but its getting one.
Ad then when put together balancing the carbs, as the are off a 3.5, but apparently has bigger jets, so its getting them set up correctly.
Main thing tho is getting her water tight ish, as she has no roof/door tops etc. But for now its choosing which way to go get her, as I'd prefer a recovery flat bed, but its getting one.
Ad then when put together balancing the carbs, as the are off a 3.5, but apparently has bigger jets, so its getting them set up correctly.
I now a fella with a flatbed truck he also has a spec lift truck two if you want his number jb let me now
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Been advised to get 110 brakes as they are designed for the heavier vehicle. Also told that TD5 axles are a straight swap and they would come with disks.
Main thing tho is getting her water tight ish, as she has no roof/door tops etc. But for now its choosing which way to go get her, as I'd prefer a recovery flat bed, but its getting one.
Ad then when put together balancing the carbs, as they are off a 3.5, but apparently has bigger jets, so its getting them set up correctly.
Main thing tho is getting her water tight ish, as she has no roof/door tops etc. But for now its choosing which way to go get her, as I'd prefer a recovery flat bed, but its getting one.
Ad then when put together balancing the carbs, as they are off a 3.5, but apparently has bigger jets, so its getting them set up correctly.
Td5 axles won't fit a series chassis as a series is leaf sprung and a TD5 coil sprung so completely different.
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The 110 setup I may as well get a Salisbury Axle for it and they should come with the brakes fitted. Then two birds with one stone.
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Personally if you buy an ex military vehice you have to restore it back as best as you can if you buy a standard vehicle butcher all you like. Invisible mods would be over drive with rangy diffs fitted that will make it roll better, safety mods on an older Landy will be brakes and a servo to assist if possible.
I see it has the 2a razor edge bonnet fitted also you should be able to trace raf history and find out what service it has done, it would be good to do a historical re build in my eyes. I'm not fussed on the series 3 the dash is pants, I prefer a 2 or a 2a myself.
I see it has the 2a razor edge bonnet fitted also you should be able to trace raf history and find out what service it has done, it would be good to do a historical re build in my eyes. I'm not fussed on the series 3 the dash is pants, I prefer a 2 or a 2a myself.
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Personally if you buy an ex military vehice you have to restore it back as best as you can if you buy a standard vehicle butcher all you like. Invisible mods would be over drive with rangy diffs fitted that will make it roll better, safety mods on an older Landy will be brakes and a servo to assist if possible.
I see it has the 2a razor edge bonnet fitted also you should be able to trace raf history and find out what service it has done, it would be good to do a historical re build in my eyes. I'm not fussed on the series 3 the dash is pants, I prefer a 2 or a 2a myself.
I see it has the 2a razor edge bonnet fitted also you should be able to trace raf history and find out what service it has done, it would be good to do a historical re build in my eyes. I'm not fussed on the series 3 the dash is pants, I prefer a 2 or a 2a myself.
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The first thing would be to join a military forum, you could try "milweb" http://www.milweb.net/ through there you can find a club/forum that should be able to guide you towards finding the history out. There are a few forums where they do detailed builds and have members that go to "Dunsford" I think it's called where they trace history of vehicles and quite often you see a listing of VIN numbers where one of them says he's going and the new guys list the plate numbers for him to trace. Did any history come with the Landy ? Also check body panels for any traces of paint history you may have tyre pressures listed on top of wheel arches etc so may be worth lightly sandi g area to see if they reveal anything.
What's the bulkhead condition that could make it or break it on ease of a rebuild ?
If its shot to bits your going to have a big job on your hands, if you need a replacement series 3 military or not even after what I've said I'd be tempted to stick a series 2 design bulkhead in as it's on the crossover point.
What's the bulkhead condition that could make it or break it on ease of a rebuild ?
If its shot to bits your going to have a big job on your hands, if you need a replacement series 3 military or not even after what I've said I'd be tempted to stick a series 2 design bulkhead in as it's on the crossover point.
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The first thing would be to join a military forum, you could try "milweb" http://www.milweb.net/ through there you can find a club/forum that should be able to guide you towards finding the history out. There are a few forums where they do detailed builds and have members that go to "Dunsford" I think it's called where they trace history of vehicles and quite often you see a listing of VIN numbers where one of them says he's going and the new guys list the plate numbers for him to trace. Did any history come with the Landy ? Also check body panels for any traces of paint history you may have tyre pressures listed on top of wheel arches etc so may be worth lightly sandi g area to see if they reveal anything.
What's the bulkhead condition that could make it or break it on ease of a rebuild ?
If its shot to bits your going to have a big job on your hands, if you need a replacement series 3 military or not even after what I've said I'd be tempted to stick a series 2 design bulkhead in as it's on the crossover point.
What's the bulkhead condition that could make it or break it on ease of a rebuild ?
If its shot to bits your going to have a big job on your hands, if you need a replacement series 3 military or not even after what I've said I'd be tempted to stick a series 2 design bulkhead in as it's on the crossover point.
But the paint originally is yellow as you can see it in the engine bay under the white, and under the dash area. So my guess will be the yellow is what it was during its service life, I have been told that a fair numbers were yellow as they spent their lives around runways/aircraft.
Tbh though its not something where I'm going to chop things out, raise it stupidly high, and get it looking stupid. Also I don`t care if it takes me 10 years to get it as I want it, as long as its right then thats what matters, I will endeavour to get it on the road asap, mainly as I want to use it.
My plans are; Rebuild of engine (if needed (probably will anyways), give engine a lick of paint, re-wire (water proof everything), sort any obvious issues.
Then underseal all the footwells and underneath (not sure if I'll do the chassis), and get rid of any rusty parts that I can change.
Replace the fuel tank for new, as I know the one with it is in need of work, new pipes, and pickup including gauge sender.
Find a decent roof and colour code, and new rubbers and possibly glass.
New tilt, preferably in the colour it would have had in service (if it didn`t then see what looks best).
Eventually fit a nice set of headers and nice exhaust, nothing chavvy just to help her breathe a bit better.
Then possibly look into overdrives, and if I can fit a Capstan PTO winch.
Then if I can, get its military plates remade, and then a decent set of rubber for the wheels.
And I deffo want a Sankey Trailer to match
Other things I have looked into are disk brake conversions (pricey), and Salisbury axles. But will have to look into what is best, before buying things for the sake of it.
But as said this is long term, my goals first are to get it running and back on the road, so I can enjoy it and get it used again. And do things bit by bit.
Nah that pic is one I found on Google images as it is the same colour as what mine should be. Was for illustration only.