What else I need when changing ARB?
#1
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What else I need when changing ARB?
On MY06 STI. I'm going to order Whiteline 22mm rear adjustable ARB. Do I need anything else (like droplinks, bushes or something else...) Thanks!
#3
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ARBs come with bushes as part of kit. Droplinks on 06 car are balljoint type and don't need replacing. Put a 22mm bar in the front as well, makes a huge difference. Car doesn't tip over on outside front corner when pushing and steering has a lighter more controllable feel.
#4
IMHO and experience:
22mm in the front, 24mm in the rae, solid links at both ends, Whiteline bushes and stacks of grease.
The grease will slowly migrate out of the bushes, so regular re-greasing is needed, about every 2 months for me to keep it all moving.
You can tune the rear on the 3 positions of the rear bar. Middle is a nice road/track setting for me.
The transformation is amazing!
22mm in the front, 24mm in the rae, solid links at both ends, Whiteline bushes and stacks of grease.
The grease will slowly migrate out of the bushes, so regular re-greasing is needed, about every 2 months for me to keep it all moving.
You can tune the rear on the 3 positions of the rear bar. Middle is a nice road/track setting for me.
The transformation is amazing!
#5
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911, so you think that 22 front and 24 rear is beter than only 22mm rear. I'm talking about MY06 STI. Read many of your posts and you are one of my top suspension experts. Thanks
#6
I'm no expert, but I have tried a lot of things, including the highly contraversial 27mm front / 24 rear!
The later cars are heavy in comparison to the classic so imho need a bit more help.
The essence of all this is to give the car a stiffer rear bar in relative terms.
Adding a 22 to the rear is stiffer than stock (on the classic), so 22 front is stiffer, but you want the rear to be stiffer still, hence the 24 in the rear.
The 3 positions in the rear allow a range of stiffness rates (a roll bar is a long torsion spring), and the difference in effect of the weakest to stiffest can be quite marked.
Much of this is down to personal driving needs, so you need some adjustment to feel for your ideal.
Personally, the 22/24 and play with the 3 holes in the rear will reap good rewards for you.
If you want a second opinion, call Curtis at Powerstation. He is a very approachable guy with vast experience.
Another is Job at Whiteline UK again, a real expert as you would expect.
Graham.
The later cars are heavy in comparison to the classic so imho need a bit more help.
The essence of all this is to give the car a stiffer rear bar in relative terms.
Adding a 22 to the rear is stiffer than stock (on the classic), so 22 front is stiffer, but you want the rear to be stiffer still, hence the 24 in the rear.
The 3 positions in the rear allow a range of stiffness rates (a roll bar is a long torsion spring), and the difference in effect of the weakest to stiffest can be quite marked.
Much of this is down to personal driving needs, so you need some adjustment to feel for your ideal.
Personally, the 22/24 and play with the 3 holes in the rear will reap good rewards for you.
If you want a second opinion, call Curtis at Powerstation. He is a very approachable guy with vast experience.
Another is Job at Whiteline UK again, a real expert as you would expect.
Graham.
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#8
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Have a read of these threads, might save you some money
https://www.scoobynet.com/suspension...preza-sti.html
https://www.scoobynet.com/suspension...p-b-roads.html
#10
No need to be confused at all.
You do need to think about what YOU want from the car and to be honest with yourself about how you drive some/most of the time.
Selecting chassis mods to me is all about tweeking the car to suit you.
My car is a road going racer built to be as competative as my wallet and nerve will tolerate, but I never drive it on the road as hard as I race it.
A stock road car will be really bad on the track with very few exceptions, ie Lotus Elise, 911 RS.
You do need to think about what YOU want from the car and to be honest with yourself about how you drive some/most of the time.
Selecting chassis mods to me is all about tweeking the car to suit you.
My car is a road going racer built to be as competative as my wallet and nerve will tolerate, but I never drive it on the road as hard as I race it.
A stock road car will be really bad on the track with very few exceptions, ie Lotus Elise, 911 RS.
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