st3ph3n

Is the Anti-Lift Kit a good mod to get done?

What exactley does it actually do also?

I've got droplinks done already and they're very good indeed.

jgevers

I think it works very well, but I would say that:-)

Have a look at these links.

http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles/AS_319_ab.htm
http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles/AS_319_cd.htm
http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles/AS_319_ef.htm
http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles/AS_319_gh.htm

http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles...WL%20ALK_b.pdf

Cheers

st3ph3n

Forgive me for possibly being a bit slow. I'm not entirely Mechanically/Physics minded beyond speed = distance over time, so when the white paper talks about softening the suspension I get a bit confused.

I thought benefits were gained when making the suspension stiffer?

I've read plenty of anecdotal evidence to suggest that the ALK is indeed well worth the money, and going on that alone I've enquired about price from my modshop of choice as the car is going in on Friday for a service, Tein Springs and Geometery, so thought I could get it done at the same time.

Tidgy

i had one fitted last week, also had shcoks, lowered/stiffened springs, rear anti roll bar, front and rear alloy drop links, and uprated steering rack bush's fitted and its a whole different car.

nose goes up about half an inch when you plant it from a stand still nd if your already moving, doesn't move at all.

well worth it

jgevers

Hi,

The ALK does a few things. It reduces the anti-lift/dive geometry by reducing the sticktion in the front wishbone. The second, arguably more important, benefit is the increase in static and dynamic castor. This has some serious advantages like increased negative camber on the outside front wheel when turning and increased weight on the inside front wheel when turning.

If you want the increased castor but not the reduction in anti-lift/dive geometry, Whiteline has the castor kit (KCA375) that will increase the static castor by 0.5 degrees and the dynamic castor by a lot more.

Cheers,

Job

Jim_B

iTrader: (1)

Got the ALK put on my car by Powerstation & had their 4 wheel alignment. These were the only mods to the car at the time and the difference was very noticeable. [ Already had solid rear drop links / rear adjustable 22mm ARB ] Much more grip in fast corners and the car felt much more sure footed.

Mo

..........or the camber & castor adjustable top mounts like those available from Noltec, freedom to dial in what you want.

They will allow you to run around 5 degrees of positive castor which is far more than the Whiteline kits allow and to dial in as much negative camber as you can handle You could run say -1 degree of static camber on your way to the track (remembering the increase in dynamic camber you've gained from the additional castor) then once there, pop on the slicks and wind it in to -4 degrees should you so wish.

jgevers

If you change camber, the toe will change as well.

Mo

So three way adjustable mounts then unbeatable VFM

jgevers

The Noltec/K-mac/MRT topmounts are great. If you have 2 settings, mark the track rod ends (accurately) so that you can change at the track.

The front wishbone rear bush is very soft though, which results in a lot of castor loss when loaded around a corner. Changing this for an ALK or Castor adjustment bush reduces that loss considerably. The top mounts and ALK/Castor bush work well together.

Cheers,

Job

Mo

Thankyou Job, very informed comments.

Makes a refreshing change to some of the blurp that gets posted on here!

911

I thought that you reduced camber to accomodate cross ply slicks, about half that for road radials.
Any thoughts Job?
How are Nolteks 3 way adjustable?
Caster
Camber
and ?

for my money, the nolteks are great mainly for the caster increase, and the ALK for the solid bush , but there is a poly bush kit to replace the rear mounting which would be effective and cheaper than the ALK?

Graham.

jgevers

Hi Graham,

Changing to cross-plies will most likely allow you to run less camber. As a guess, if you run 4 degrees on radial slicks, I would start at about 2.5 degrees on crossplies and be led by cross tyre temps. Which make are you thinking about? Avon, Dunlop? I would try to get radial slicks for ease of set-up. Dunlop used to make both. Normally the 'feel' of the car will change drastically when changing to crossplies. You will most likely need to change damping rates as well. You might need to change the angle of the steering arms (on the hub) as well (heat and brute force) to change the toe-out on turns to suit as well.

The top mounts are not 3way adjustable. I think it was a comment regarding the change of toe when camber is adjusted.

Yes, Whiteline do a castor adjustable bush for the wishbone (KCA375) and is in stock in the UK. Not quite as easy to fit though and does not give the reduction in sticktion in the front suspension or reduction of the 'anti' geometry.