hrubago

What mod you prefer?
1) ALK
2) Uprated rear diff
3) Front LSD
4) Modified Central diff
5) wheel aligment
6) Different tyre presure front/rear
7) special suspension setings

Which mod. has bigest efect?

hrubago

8) uprated rear swaybar

Pete Croney

Toe the rear wheels out by 1mm

dowser

...and be careful, lol Pete! The toe method introduces more oversteer in all situations - when do you want more oversteer?

Richard

hrubago

I had M3 E30, E36 and M5 before Subaru.
I like EVO VI and VII driving characteristic. I thing more driving fun in EVO are oversteer based :-)

Erik

Disconect front swaybar

hrubago

Good idea. What is your driving experince without front swaybar?

dowser

hrubago, question still stands; when do you want oversteer?

I assume under power? What about on lift-off as well? Guess what the above do?

Richard

hrubago

Everytime......
1) I want turn by brake (like the evo)
2) I want neutral (oversteer onm demand) in the middle and in the end of curve under power.

I know, its question of driving style, but i cannot accept that the car turned well, and when i put more throttle, the car goes straight with sliping front wheel.

That looks, i need uprated central diff, LSD in front and uprated rear diff.... :-(

I think turn by brake (and first half of curve) can be solved by aligment setting, tyre pressure etc. But behavior under the power is question of differentials, weight distribution etc....

S55 HOT

Put SO2's on the front & SO1's on the back & wait for it to rain.

Well it worked for me .......oops !

dowser

Assuming you're on standard suspension, I'd recommend fitting an uprated rear ARB first - this really helps turn in. So does the ALK. Geometry should be done as a matter of course to ensure the car is predictable, regardless of the settings you choose.

While a front lsd will help getting the power down out of corners, I'm not sure how it will work with standard suspension. The real risk with the front lsd is that if you don't have enough grip in the first place, corner exit will lose traction on both front wheels....causing more understeer!

A good example was my car - after doing the front diff, but before fitting the rear ARB, I found the diff very frustrating on track; corner entry speed had to be perfect, a little too fast and the front would start to drift on entry. In this state nailing the throttle just caused more drift (obviously!).

Fitting the rear arb provided much more front end grip on turn in, meaning too fast an entry creates more of a 4 wheel drift. Nailing the throttle then gives good (barely perceptible sideways) traction out of corner.

In the end though it's a driving style thing - you probably need more power if you expect oversteer on demand corner exit style

Richard

markd

hi richard..have you got the ajustable arb if so which setting is it also have you got the links done as well .i am thinking of bumpsteer mod, alk, rear arb for my98 ive got on the car at the moment eibachs standard shocks what do you think...mark

hrubago

Now i have front ALK fitted. Standart struts but uprated springs, and heavy swaybar links. Aligment: toe front 0, rear - toe out 1mm. Thinking about rear swaybar.

Which is your experience with front LSD on the snow and ice?

dowser

Mark - yep, I did the links and heavy duty mounts too. I have my bar on middle both sides. I can't really comment on how well it all works with your spring/damper combo though - I run it on quite low KW adjustable coil-overs.

Hrubago - I run parallel rear and 1mm/side toe-in at front with -2 camber all round. But then I want to get around a corner quick, not necessarily sideways Re. the diff on snow and ice - ask me in a few months

Richard

STI MAN

If you like the Evo turning characteristics, why not get one. It'll save pi$$ing about making the Scoob different???

SteveB

iTrader: (1)

Go faster.....Back off....Foot down.......yeeha

Steve.