Suspension, theres do’s, don’ts and maybes all over the shop.

I’ve experimented with bigger rear roll bars, but found my cornering turns into sliding. I’ve tried bigger front bars, but my steering goes light after a big turn because of the suspension shift.
I’ve tried coilovers and found them to be too hard and unforgiving on even a slightest deviation in the road. Shocks and springs, the boatyness that comes with late braking is unreal. Air, I have been told it’s a complete no go when it comes to racing anything.

So having looked into all this, I know my way round camber/castor/toe angles aswell as the best kpi and toe-in on turn values you want to see. But I just want some really basic advice for a car that’s never going to see a Grand Prix....
if I won the lottery, I’d sit in a room for days and work out every single angle I want, then have it fabricated, bought etc. But I haven’t 😂

so What is actually the best fast road/tarmac rally suspension for the classics? Without spending thousands of pounds and hours. I know there’s a lot Of answers to this question, but realistically, what is needed to make a 300 brake car stick and corner the way we want?

 

Eibach Pro Street S coilovers

 

I'd say that the start point would be to renew all bushings before choosing arb and shock combinations. Then go from there.

 

Have a browse through this thread https://www.scoobynet.com/889963-type-r-3.html

Car handles a dream on your average UK A/B road

You're welcome to experience it for yourself - I'm located SW Midlands

 

Just had a quick skim through, will have a proper look tonight. But that looks like a very helpful thread, thankyou! Is that your car on the thread then? She’s a beauty!! I’m walsall way so probably not too far away from me either

 

Yes, that's my car, thanks

you're 19miles/30 mins away

 

There's a big difference right there:
Undulating/uneven roads - P1 spring rates 190/155lb/in
Smoother roads - V6sti spring rates 235/195lb/in
Tarmac rally/road - 5kg/mm (280lb/in) front and rear spring rates.

As has been said, new bushes (urethane in compression, Hardrace/Group N rubber in pivot) + more front negative camber/positive caster (Whiteline/Pedders off-set front top mounts) + even more front positive caster (control arm spacers).

Good tyres + the right tyre pressures + alignment.

 

well, when mines back on the road, I’ll have to pop down and have a look because she’s a beaut!

 

my only worry when I start messing with geometry is tyre wear, after all it is still going to be used for shows etc! I understand hard driving is a completely different set up to tootling at speed limits. But there’s got to be some ‘rough’ middle ground to experience moderate enjoyment in both?

 

That is the middle ground.

If you're always on the motorway, then don't exceed neg 1 deg, per side, at the front.

 

You're welcome, but not just a look - a road test too