alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Been ill for a week, so haven't been out in the car. Last time I was, on return from a short two mile shopping trip, I thought I smelled petrol.

So off I went to sainsways again, and on the return it was eye-watering.

So I pops the bonnet, only to be horrified to find it PISSING petrol out from the flexible pipe that runs along the base of the scuttle, and all over the scuttle, fuel pressure setup and the red-hot turbo........

Switched it off straight away, but what to do now?

Here's a pic:

The pipe it's coming from runs from behind the brake fluid reservoir and across the lower edge of the scuttle past the fuel pressure regulator, and down on the nearside.

Do I replace with similar? Or different? Do I cut it at the leak-point and put an insert in? (I don't fancy this...)

Where does the left hand end come from? And where does the right hand end go to?

And why has it gone?????????


Edited: Now I've calmed down, and the sun came out, I can see the pipe in question runs from the fuel filter(???) on the nearside, down to the injectors on the offside.

There are other pieces of the same stuff, going to different places.

Should I replace it all?
And what with, please?

I think that, had I been out going anywhere except the local supermarket, you'd now be reading about how a Subaru burnt out.........

neil-h

Can't say I can help you out with what to replace it with (unless you simply use the same stuff again, presumably it's lasted pretty well so far) but personally I'd do it properly rather than splicing in new stuff just before where it leaks.

Last thing you want to be doing is bodging a quick fix onto the fuel system.

RA Dunk

Close one that, it woulden't have been the first Impreza I know of going up in a ball of flames.

Would you not get away with replacing the line with a braided hose like I see on some of the parralell<(sp) set up's?

I woulden't just replace the one section from the filter to the injectors either, I would change the whole lot, if one sections fcuked chances are the whole lots fcuked as well.

tubbytommy

iTrader: (20)

The pipe from fuel filter to injectors isn't very long and made from rubber.
Just replace the whole length with good quality fuel pipe and replace the clamps too.

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

This.

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

There shouldn't be any fuel pipes running along the bulk head from memory. They go from the filter and join onto metal pipes that run under the inlet manifold from standard.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Returns?

Anyone post a link to some decent stuff? Ebay etc is full of it, but anything from clear pvc stuff to £200 a metre.

And clips? Stainless Jubilee?

Does anyone know what size it is?

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

I see fabric braided fuel pipe in those pictures. A main cause of most modified and kit-car fires.

DO NOT USE THIS TYPE OF HOSE!

Its no good for gravity fed lawn mowers let alone 50psi of fuel injection! (I speak from experience)

Why? The ethanol in ALL uk fuel rots the rubber. It oks for a few years, then it perishes and splits.


If you need fuel pipe make sure it is SAE J30R9 or DIN 73379-3D. It will be a struggle( Good-Year make some, but its not easy to get hold of. ), DIN73379-2B or SAE 30R7 is also acceptable so long as you are aware it won't last forever.

Doesn't matter if its steel barided or not...if it hasn't those above markings, I would not use it. Steel Braid is just bling...what is important is the hose inside it (the steel doesn't stop it rotting and failing) - without the standard marking there could be anything hiding underneath that braid.

I would not buy any fuel hose without DIN or SAJ markings. Much like aviation and maritime reglation stipulate certain grades of hoses, sadly the UK/EU is lacking on demanding this requirement for fuel hose sold for automotive use.

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

This is where I got my hose from when replacing the hoses on the top-fed injectors on my Jag:

http://www.cmtflexibles.com/contacts.htm

Can't say if they'll be able to supply you by post as I just walked in and bought a length from their trade counter.

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

Not see the Aeromotive FPR in the pic, Matt?

The pipe will most likely be from the end of the fuel rail by the turbo, Jeff, going to the regulator.

As above, replace the whole lot, it's not a lot of pipe work needed, and it's certainly not worth the risk.

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Could run the bulkhead section in copper or stainless steel pipe. I've done that in the past

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Oh BTW the kitcar/classic car forums are littered with inccidents like this...

This is something I have bookmarked: http://www.volksbolts.com/faq/bioethanolstudyreport.pdf

Heavy reading, but it shows our government does know about this and anyone either with a classic car, modded/repaired/restored car with after market hoses really should be aware of the ramifications of ethanol in fuel and what they need to do to make sure no harm is done to their car.

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

The fuel return also runs under the manifold from factory.
The only reason I can think as to why you have a fuel pipe there is someone ran a pipe from the standard FPR position up to your adjustable FPR, but you said the hose goes back to the filter ??

When I replaced my fuel system I just bought my hose from my local motorfactors. Think it was no more than £15 for a couple of meters.

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

Yea saw that buddy but he said the hose goes behind the regulator and back to the filter......

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

Yeah, confuses me slightly too, Matt.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

I'll have a better look tomorrow, thanks, see if I can trace what there is and what goes where.

This has seriously scared me, so I want to get it right.

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

Best course of action, Jeff.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Just been onto them, very helpful, got the R9 stuff, not cheap, but will be here in the morning via TNT.

Am replacing the lot, so have ordered 2.5m.

Cheers Ali, and all others who responded.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

Is this the main reason fire extinguishers get fitted to some big builds?

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Probably, but it would have to be a decent size and foam to have dealt with the fire I'd have had

Petrol literally squirting out of a 3/4" split at 3 bar........

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Maybe - belt and braces etc: If someone is spending alot of money on a car then they may think its a wise investment "just incase".

I've got two small dry powder extinguishers in the car myself, but to be frank after seeing them in use in you-tube videos etc, they are pretty useless once a engine fire has took hold .

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Well, the offending hose is replaced.....two and a half hours!

It necessitated both bits of intercooler under-bonnet pipework removed and the induction kit.

And even then it was a struggle to get my quite small hands in and force the pipe into place.

Getting the i/c pipework back in place was a joke too.

That bit's done, I've cried off replacing it all, going to get some slightly larger diameter hose. the stuff I've bought is 6mm i/d but I think 8mm will be easier for the other bits, especially those that need to fit to the fuel pressure regulator.

Hopefully the replacement of the other two bits will be easier.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Question for those who know:
Having replaced it with 1/4" when it should be 5/16", will it flow enough? Or have I to do it all again?

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Question for those who know:
Having replaced it with 1/4" when it should be 5/16", will it flow enough? Or have I to do it all again?

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Not a clue: I suppose the best way is to test it.

There are two ways: one is fuel pressure guage attached to feed pipe going to the fuel rail and driving the car at WOT up to the redline in 2nd or 3rd gear and see if fuel pressure remains static - if it tails off under heavy load then there is a restriction somewhere (blocked filter, fpr leaking through the return, kinked hoses etc) or the pump is struggling.

A more basic way is to extend the feed pipe going the fuel rail so it can be fed into a measured container, bridge out the fuel pump (safetly with a cut out switch) so it runs all the time and measure how long it take to fill. From that you can work out the flow rate of your entire fuel system (including pump, filter and reg). Also check you get no air bubbles inthe fuel (clear container is ideal for this). As aereated fuel will cause lean running. What minimum flow rate you require at WOT and max rpm will be down to the state of tune of the engine, but a general rule of thumb its going to be around 3litres a minute, 2litres per minute as a bare minimum....Just for perspective A 2.0 n/a engine consumes 1litre of fuel at 7000rpm at full throttle and rich (12:1) mixture. Its a bit more tricky working it our for a turbo'd/intercooled engine as it depends on the boost pressure and charge temp.

Obviously if you do the latter whilst smoking in the same workshop as your mate who is welding their jalopy, I will not be held for responsible for any explosion that may or may not occur.

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

Oem is either 7.? or 8.? mm I/D, I forget which. I'm surprised you managed to get 6mm to actually fit.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

So was I. It was a struggle.

Problem was, I assumed it would be metric, measured it at 7.5mm, but only 8mm, or 6mm was available, (5/16" is 8mm of course), so ordered 6mm thinking it would be a nice tight fit, and that 8mm would be a loose fit, which I wanted to avoid.

Oh well....£35 down the drain, you live and learn. I'll order some more on Monday.

edited to say: found the same stuff, R9 rated. on ebay at half the price with free delivery.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-6mm-5-16...item3a66d8d6b9