easiest way to change turbo up pipe,help needed
14 January 2011, 11:21 PM
#1
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easiest way to change turbo up pipe,help needed
hi,my turbo up pipe is knackered and wondered if anyone could advise me on the easiest way to get it off the car,also i was going to replace it with one of the stainless steel decat one's instead of a 2nd hand one,could anyone explain to me why there called de-cat up pipes as ive been told by subaru that my 53 bugeye doesnt have a cat in the up pipe,i no this might sound dumb but im pretty clueless when it comes to the up pipe,cheers
15 January 2011, 12:03 AM
#2
From what i have seen/read,luckily i havent had the misfortune of replacing one yet,The downpipe has to be removed, to gain access to the top of the up-pipe bolts and also an engine mount has to be loosened to allow for the gap to remove the up-pipe once unbolted.
1. intercooler off
2. turbo heat shield off
3. downpipe off
4. remove five nuts holding up pipe on to brackets and turbo
5. remove stupid plastic undertray if still fitted
6. remove sensor on newage uppipe
7. remove two bolts holding up pipe to headers
8. remove nut on left hand engine mount
9. jack engine a wee bit to give a few extra mm clearence.
10. possibly remove left hand side of headers to give more room.
not sure why its also reffered to as a decat pipe,only clued up on classics, maybe the latter models have a CAT in the up-pipe ????
1. intercooler off
2. turbo heat shield off
3. downpipe off
4. remove five nuts holding up pipe on to brackets and turbo
5. remove stupid plastic undertray if still fitted
6. remove sensor on newage uppipe
7. remove two bolts holding up pipe to headers
8. remove nut on left hand engine mount
9. jack engine a wee bit to give a few extra mm clearence.
10. possibly remove left hand side of headers to give more room.
not sure why its also reffered to as a decat pipe,only clued up on classics, maybe the latter models have a CAT in the up-pipe ????
15 January 2011, 12:31 AM
#5
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does this mean i will have to buy a 2nd hand up pipe with the cat in or would i be ok with fitting a stainless de-cat 1 instead as a straight replacement for the standard 1,the issue i have is i dont want to fit a 2nd hand one that could break shortly after fitting and i dont fancy paying the £423 for a new one,i no im tight but with the fuel prices i need to be,lol,thanks for your help so far fella's
15 January 2011, 12:31 AM
#6
Harvey's advice for your consideration:
Fitting uppipe.
Drop the D/P.
Undo the bolts, headers to uppipe.
Loosen but do not remove three nuts on each header to cylinder head.
Now undo the nuts holding the uppipe. 5# in total if they are all there.
Remove U/P.
If it will not come loosen the two bolts, collector to the rest of headers/cross pipe and it will fly out.
Alternative : Least preferred option.
If it will not come out with lots of twisting, slack engine mountings. Do not totally undo. Jack engine and pipe drops out.
Try to get pipe out first before undoing mountings for engine.
Drop the D/P.
Undo the bolts, headers to uppipe.
Loosen but do not remove three nuts on each header to cylinder head.
Now undo the nuts holding the uppipe. 5# in total if they are all there.
Remove U/P.
If it will not come loosen the two bolts, collector to the rest of headers/cross pipe and it will fly out.
Alternative : Least preferred option.
If it will not come out with lots of twisting, slack engine mountings. Do not totally undo. Jack engine and pipe drops out.
Try to get pipe out first before undoing mountings for engine.
15 January 2011, 10:40 AM
#7
If its a newage WRX then there is a cat in the up-pipe, Best option to replace it with is a newage STI uppipe as these do not have a cat in them and can be picked up for around the £25-£35 mark, It will be a straight swap and will be a good fit unlike some of the aftermarket ones that you have to mess about with to get a good fit, Gaz.
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15 January 2011, 12:03 PM
#8
As above. You're better off with a second hand STI one than a cheap Ebay flexi jointed stainless steel jobbie. Harveys ones come highly recommended.
Your CEL will illuminate when the engine gets hot as the EGT sensor from the cat will be removed. You need a 2k ohm resistor .5 watt resistor to fool the ECU that the sensor is in place. Are you remapping?
Your CEL will illuminate when the engine gets hot as the EGT sensor from the cat will be removed. You need a 2k ohm resistor .5 watt resistor to fool the ECU that the sensor is in place. Are you remapping?
15 January 2011, 01:53 PM
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Wasn't thinking of remapping unless I have to,some people have said it might need a remap but others have said if the engine is standard it wouldn't need doing,any advice would be gratefully,
15 January 2011, 02:04 PM
#10
There is no mandatory requirement for a re-map, the ECU will compensate.
re-mapping is required to map out the CEL by ditching the EGT sensor.......if you don't want to use a resistor CEL fix.
And makes the car run a whole lot better
Shaun
re-mapping is required to map out the CEL by ditching the EGT sensor.......if you don't want to use a resistor CEL fix.
And makes the car run a whole lot better
Shaun
15 January 2011, 03:08 PM
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I have spoken to scooby clinic and they have said that if I put a decay on just get it checked with them on the rolling road to make sure all is safe and set up well,it defo looks like a decat pipe then or the newage sit pipe if I can find 1 somewhere,any ideas where to look for 1,cheers all
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