sparky113

iTrader: (2)

i have just fitted HID'S to my morrettes in my bug and when i am going from high beam to dip beam all the lights (apart from sidelights) go off for a second before they dips kick back in again.
i know it dunt sound like alot but when there aint no light at all for that second it cant be good especially if coming up to a corner.
All the relays are new and have even checked it against the old relays and the same thing happens.
Please help!!!

awdx4

Sounds like the starter and ballast units that run the bulbs are taking time to pull enough current to drive the lamps. That is assuming that the HID's are the ones with the lag. Most likely a wiring issue in so much as how they are configured to run. When you switch from one beam to the other, there is a lag which is causing your issue. Without me knowing exactly how you've got everything wired in detail it is difficult to offer you a concise way to rectify the problem.

Tim

sparky113

iTrader: (2)

yeh its the hids with the lag. i have hids in both dipped and full. the lights were already in the car when i bought it. is there different ways to wire them up as everything looked like it goes where it is supposed to go.

awdx4

You should be able to hear the relays close with the car engine off. It would be worth getting another person to switch between beams while you listen to see if the relays switch over seamlessly between full and dipped. If they do it could be that the new lighting system is pulling excessive current from the source it is wired to. The original non HID lamps would have had different characteristics to the new ones, which might require you to get an uprated positive feed to the switching side of the relay. The contacts that come from your selector switch will be just what's sufficient to close the relays so they connect a higher rated circuit to power the lamps. To do a test you could get a car battery and one of the relays and make one circuit using a heavy cable connected to a HID lamp, and then supply the relay with a normal size cable to make it close and see if the unit you have purchased is powering up in a timely manner. Be very careful as HID units can have voltages present which are not compatible with a happy smiley face and holding a pint steady, prior to sipping it.

Tim

sparky113

iTrader: (2)

Thanks very much for the help Tim, much appreciated i will give that a try

sparky

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Why not alter the wiring so that the dips STAY on and the main beams come on when selected?

Given that HIDs pull around 3A each and the OE lights pulled around 5A, there should not be any problem

sparky113

iTrader: (2)

How you go about doing that alcazar?

ukimpreza

iTrader: (9)

or another way is to use one double poled relay and run dipped on say normally closed and full on normally open

dunx

iTrader: (3)

No, that is what's wrong...

You need to understand how the wiring operates, mine are fine.

dunx

sparky113

iTrader: (2)

Dunx
did you have any probs with your morrette's at all?
im lost at the mo with them. think me n my dad are taking them out again tomos and check all the wires and connections

dunx

iTrader: (3)

Don't have them I hate them... only joking, but my STI has separate main and dip units.

You have to understand how Subaru switch the earth connections to select dip or main beam from a permanent switched live feed.

The problem is that a H4 bulb is usually switched from dip to main, not both simultaneously...

dunx

P.S. You may need to add a relay that is fed from the main circuit BUT switches the dip beam circuit on when main beam is selected... then if the dip circuit is broken on switching it should only be for a fraction of a second.

sparky113

iTrader: (2)

its going from high beam to dip that i have the problem as when i go from high to dipped all the lights go off for a second.

brendy76

iTrader: (6)

The hids do take a second to warm up, are you sure its total darkness and not a reduction in light for a sec then full light resumed?