330dan

Been looking at P1's on pistonheads and all the ones with a milage of around 75,000+ have had full engine rebuilds or at least new bttom ends. I know scoobys get thrashed but I also thought they were supposed to have very well built, reliable engines (similar to the standards set by Honda).

Is this something particularily with P1's or all scoobys?

Do you think a car advertised as having a full engine rebuild is a sensible buy - i'd imagine stear clear of a car that has had such major work carried out

RAF1

iTrader: (5)

When i was looking i made sure i bought one with a rebuild......!! As long as its done by a specialist or dealers jobs a good one..

Mine has 54k with full Dealers S/History - Engine rebuilt by Subaru at 52k miles - However bonus is the engines still under Subaru warrenty...

Pete

DET...........

c_maguire

I should think the large number of engine rebuilds is more indicative of poor 'performance tuning' modifications, poor servicing (i.e. just not doing it) and poor driving.
There are no doubt plenty on here with 100k plus cars of all types (UK, JDM, Sti, P1) that would say they drive them enthusiastically, but who also happen to look after them too.
Tweaking a 2 litre car upwards of 300bhp (some to 500+ apparently) is always going to increase the chance of terminal engine damage, but a P1 out of the box is only akin to a mildly tuned standard car.
Kevin

330dan

might go back to blobs at this rate - 52k pretty low for an engine rebuild i thought! I suppose if its done by subaru then thats fine.

Mark'sWRX

For some reason the P1 was notorious for engine failure at around 60k. I would not be put off by one that had had a rebuild as long as it was by a reputable firm. I would rather that than one on its original engine.

I don't think any other model has the same failure problem unless ,as said above, it has been badly modded/thrashed/not serviced.

Nick_Cat

iTrader: (5)

P1: wasn't it something to do with the map not fully compensating for UK fuels??? I'd be looking for one with an engine rebuild and a remap.
Nick

allsop83

iTrader: (9)

The P1 is basically supplied with a STI V engine (if I remember correctly...) from Japan and therefore the ECU is set to run on Jap fuel (100RON) along with an apparent problem with the year 2000 bottom ends being weak has resulted in a lot of engines going pop.

A P1 should really be re-mapped to run on UK fuel in order to perform safely. Saying that, it has nothing to do with mileage or treatment as has been documented on the P1woc. It has been known for well treated cars, low mileage (one as low as 27k miles IIRC..) to go pop. If it's going to happen, it's going to happen unfortunately.

My P1 currently runs safely at 330bhp on the original engine + V-Power and has just reached 30k miles but I know it had been re-mapped to UK fuel from the beginning of it's life (as it was my old man's up until a couple of years ago...) but although original engines are out there have reached 100k miles+ I still know mine could go at anytime! Even though I rarely thrash it, warm up, cool down etc.

So no, don't avoid a car with an engine rebuild- probably better off! So long as it has been carried out by a reputable company & not a cowboy outfit the rebuild will be a lot stronger than the original. Lol.

330dan

how does this sound? does the price he paid for this sound about right. and does this constitute a full engine rebuild?!?! what about cylinders, camshaft, crankshaft etc. etc.

The car has had a full engine rebuild by Subaru rebuilt at 36,497 miles but not a normal rebuild, its had pretty much everything replaced with receipts to prove totallying £7669.08.

This includes:

4x pistons, short engine, turbo, oil pump, oil cooler, exhaust front & rear, cambelt, camshaft intake, valve inlet, sensor the list goes on. So the engine is pretty much new.


what do you reckon???????????

TurboAndy

iTrader: (1)

My missus wants a P1 and was told to look for one which has a engine rebuild as they tend to have weak engines.

I know 3 people with P1's who dont thrash them, warm them up and cool them down propely.

All 3 have had there engines rebuilt.

Pete

I hope he didn,t pay for that himself?? if so he could of gone the forged route for tat price, 8k seems a fair bit to me, maybe i,m wrong, dealers for you i guess...

Edited to say..

I think tbh, it,s a lotery with most cars, tuned or standard, just enjoy them and if it does happen to blow then bad-luck, time for bigger and better things, but i wouldn,t worry about buying one that,s had a re-build as long as it,s got everything to back it up etc..

scooby-tc

iTrader: (2)

the problem with the later classics 99> was the MAF was a known weak point.Some people who bought these cars couldnt tell when a MAF was failing so continued driving it which leads to BANG !!! the 93-98 was ok as are the newages it just seems to be the last of the classics which suffered with weak MAF syndrome I know of someone who went through 3 in a month

allsop83

iTrader: (9)

Sounds like a proper rebuild to me- definately at dealer prices though! Lol.

As long as it has now been mapped to UK fuel then I would say the engine is a lot stronger than the original it replaced!

I know mine will go at some point but that will allow me to have it rebuilt and I will then be able to relax and drive it without the worry of it going pop! Lol.

Hoping to plan a trip to the Nurburgring and would feel a lot better going there with a rebuilt engine! Haha.

dj219957

As said, the p1 is just a japan type r. Prodrive took the car and tweeked it for the uk market. they did remap it and i belive they fitted something in the fuel tanks to help improve the fuel?????
Whatever they did, it was not really effective...the cars were still susceptable to det especially on our 95 ron fuel. most ive seen have given up at 60k.

vindaloo

Stuff I've read in various places... P1WOC, SN, 22B etc....
Not all specific to a P1.

P1s....
ECU is tweaked to react more strongly to det. As I understand it, the normal fuel/ignition maps weren't touched.
Runs a 99/00 "dodgy" MAF.
Is designed to perform at its best at higher RPMs (say 4.5K-7.5K).
JECS ECU knock sensing gets deafened above about 5.5K.

On top of the above, they then get modded. Big exhaust and decat are a significant risk without a proper remap.

As an overall package the car is far from bomb proof. Top speed runs, races, trackdays will all add to the strain.

You have a car that thrives on revs and encourages one to use the performance which isn't actually all that resilient.

J.

Peanuts

iTrader: (15)

search brockets or whatever the **** they are called.

MrRA

Never saw the point of the P1 myself. The Type-R is the better car in my opinion.

Pete

I,m with you there, what was its new price around 28k or so?? what was the FULL cost if importing a new Type R back in 99-2000??

MrRA

If I remember correctly a P1 brand new was £32,000 and that was back in the day!! Couldn't say on the price of importing a Type-R around then but it still would've been my choice.

Scoobybits

Off topic but owned both the type r much better car,
My p1 also had gone pop..crap maf!!crap map..det as said before over rated if ya ask me by a type r..proper gearbox!

vindaloo

...searches for vintage popcorn.... The packet I opened in 2001.....

vindaloo

You'd have saved £6K - £10K. Depending on spec, assuming new or newly new.

Pete

Amazing that, a 6k minimum saving AND the better car..

super-roo

You can never be sure with them tbh.
I bought my type r as a 1 uk owner with 40k miles , full service history, very well documented. And totaly standard thinking that it would be spot on and very reliable.
5 Months later the oilpump failed without any warning and put paid to my theory.
Cough cough, new engine please.

chrisUK300

iTrader: (10)

what are the signs of a failing maf sensor? mate of mine looking for a late classic
any advice i can give him be appreciated

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Signs are irratic idle, that seems to be the biggest givaway, though if you replace it every year (its not that expensive, 70 quidish) then your going to be pretty safe.
The biggest issue was the ecu map, it was as already stated, a JDM v5 map but with added knock correction (though still not enough for uk fuel), which was reknown for having a lean spot in it, which is great if you have 100+ ron fuel, not so great on 97 ron fuel
Remaps are advised

Tony

DazW

iTrader: (1)

Broquet

*if* they worked at all, you'll probably find they're not working now. Add to the mix a flakey MAF & it's not surprising so many go bang