PPP fuel pump on newage
24 July 2007, 10:48 PM
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PPP fuel pump on newage
See a few posts on here about the fuel pump on newage cars with ppp being fitted by the dealer not actually being fitted.
Before i get andy.f to travel all the way up here to see me and a few others i want to make sure that mine is not one of these cars.
What markings are on the pump indicating its a PPP one?
Thanks
Before i get andy.f to travel all the way up here to see me and a few others i want to make sure that mine is not one of these cars.
What markings are on the pump indicating its a PPP one?
Thanks
24 July 2007, 11:06 PM
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if you have the certificate for the ppp then it should have the uprated fuel pump on it otherwise they are breaking the law. but dont forget that even the apparently uprated uprated one might not be enough depending on what your after.
24 July 2007, 11:39 PM
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Thanks lads.
I'm aiming for anything over 335bhp and the PPP on my 03STI is only just over 6mths old.
I have the certificate but that bit of cardboard doesn't mean much really..
Rob
I'm aiming for anything over 335bhp and the PPP on my 03STI is only just over 6mths old.
I have the certificate but that bit of cardboard doesn't mean much really..
Rob
25 July 2007, 08:25 AM
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Rob,
I suggest you get Andy to check the pump before the remap. Thats what I did when I had mine (supposedly PPP) checked before remap at Scoobyclinic. SC found a standard pump and I had to pay for a Walbro one. I subsequently tackled the dealer and got stonewalled. This annoyed me so much I took out a county court claim against them and eventually won. Strangely the dealer claimed that if the wrong pump was in there it must be because Subaru UK supplied the wrong one. In the end Subaru UK admitted to supplying the wrong pump, which was a surprise.
You must check the pump as too many have been found to be wrong. The certificate sadly means nothing.
Cheers, Diccy.
I suggest you get Andy to check the pump before the remap. Thats what I did when I had mine (supposedly PPP) checked before remap at Scoobyclinic. SC found a standard pump and I had to pay for a Walbro one. I subsequently tackled the dealer and got stonewalled. This annoyed me so much I took out a county court claim against them and eventually won. Strangely the dealer claimed that if the wrong pump was in there it must be because Subaru UK supplied the wrong one. In the end Subaru UK admitted to supplying the wrong pump, which was a surprise.
You must check the pump as too many have been found to be wrong. The certificate sadly means nothing.
Cheers, Diccy.
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25 July 2007, 09:45 AM
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its always better when your the one not payingwriting in the boot not always the case as it wasn't on mine but was prodrive pump which is basicly a walbro but slightly lower output than 255 but swapped mine to a walbro before remap more for peace of mind than need really
you changing panel filter?
ste
25 July 2007, 09:59 AM
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its always better when your the one not payingwriting in the boot not always the case as it wasn't on mine but was prodrive pump which is basicly a walbro but slightly lower output than 255 but swapped mine to a walbro before remap more for peace of mind than need really
you changing panel filter?
ste
Getting a set of ported and wrapped headers/up pipe from harvey and either going to buy an STI panel filter or a simota one.
I cant be bothered with the hastle of changing the downpipe (still PPP one) to a de catted version so i figured that doing work on the headers would compensate for any lost power due to the PPP restriction... If any!! So many conflicting storys.
Can i heat wrap the PPP downpipe??
Cheers
Rob
25 July 2007, 10:38 AM
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Rob,
If you're remotely handy 'on the tools' taking the existing fuel pump out to physically check it is pretty straight forward. First time I did this found it easier to just remove the rear seat and rubber boot trim. Can be done without doing this but it's 5-10mins and gives you all the room to work in the world.
Depressurise the fuel system by disconnecting the fuel pump wiring (which you need to do anyway) and starting the car. Let it run until it conks out then turn it over another couple of times to make sure - it shouldn't start.
Have found that if you do this after leaving the car overnight, system has usually depressurised on it's own.
Lift the boot carpet and you expose an oval panel at the RH rear of the boot. Undo the screws and lift the panel. 3 hoses to disconnect (and keep a rag handy as there's usually a little petrol to mop up) and move out of the way.
Once hoses and wiring are all disconnected just lift and turn the assembly through about 180 degrees at the same time and it'll pop out.
It's reasonably large as the pump sits insite the whole sender unit/hose assembly. Think the STi also has an in line fuel filter too which is worth changing depending on age/mileage.
Including taking the seats out, allow 30mins but will take less if you're handy.
Check the pump to see if it's the standard item (part no. easily sourced from Subaru) or a Prodrive/Walbro upgrade.
If it's not been upgraded, source one. The guys at Indigo-GT were doing them for £70 delivered to your door. IMHO, for the price, not worth bothering with 2nd hand unless you know it's done very little work!
On wrapping your pipework - worth doing. Also worth fitting a turbo blanket too. As well as helping to keep under bonnet temps down (which will be higher due in part to increased boost - air heats up the more it's compressed) it will also maintain heat in the exhaust gas. The hotter the gas, the higher the gas velocity. High gas velocity will further help spool, torque and ultimately power especially with the PPP sports cat still in place. Like many things in life - every little helps
As you're using ported/ wrapped headers (also worth doing the same to your up-pipe too if you haven't already) you want to maintain the insulation right through the system to the exhaust to maximise gas flow.
Hope this makes sense and helps.
Cheers,
Stewart.
If you're remotely handy 'on the tools' taking the existing fuel pump out to physically check it is pretty straight forward. First time I did this found it easier to just remove the rear seat and rubber boot trim. Can be done without doing this but it's 5-10mins and gives you all the room to work in the world.
Depressurise the fuel system by disconnecting the fuel pump wiring (which you need to do anyway) and starting the car. Let it run until it conks out then turn it over another couple of times to make sure - it shouldn't start.
Have found that if you do this after leaving the car overnight, system has usually depressurised on it's own.
Lift the boot carpet and you expose an oval panel at the RH rear of the boot. Undo the screws and lift the panel. 3 hoses to disconnect (and keep a rag handy as there's usually a little petrol to mop up) and move out of the way.
Once hoses and wiring are all disconnected just lift and turn the assembly through about 180 degrees at the same time and it'll pop out.
It's reasonably large as the pump sits insite the whole sender unit/hose assembly. Think the STi also has an in line fuel filter too which is worth changing depending on age/mileage.
Including taking the seats out, allow 30mins but will take less if you're handy.
Check the pump to see if it's the standard item (part no. easily sourced from Subaru) or a Prodrive/Walbro upgrade.
If it's not been upgraded, source one. The guys at Indigo-GT were doing them for £70 delivered to your door. IMHO, for the price, not worth bothering with 2nd hand unless you know it's done very little work!
On wrapping your pipework - worth doing. Also worth fitting a turbo blanket too. As well as helping to keep under bonnet temps down (which will be higher due in part to increased boost - air heats up the more it's compressed) it will also maintain heat in the exhaust gas. The hotter the gas, the higher the gas velocity. High gas velocity will further help spool, torque and ultimately power especially with the PPP sports cat still in place. Like many things in life - every little helps
As you're using ported/ wrapped headers (also worth doing the same to your up-pipe too if you haven't already) you want to maintain the insulation right through the system to the exhaust to maximise gas flow.
Hope this makes sense and helps.
Cheers,
Stewart.
25 July 2007, 09:32 PM
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Rob,
If you're remotely handy 'on the tools' taking the existing fuel pump out to physically check it is pretty straight forward. First time I did this found it easier to just remove the rear seat and rubber boot trim. Can be done without doing this but it's 5-10mins and gives you all the room to work in the world.
Depressurise the fuel system by disconnecting the fuel pump wiring (which you need to do anyway) and starting the car. Let it run until it conks out then turn it over another couple of times to make sure - it shouldn't start.
Have found that if you do this after leaving the car overnight, system has usually depressurised on it's own.
Lift the boot carpet and you expose an oval panel at the RH rear of the boot. Undo the screws and lift the panel. 3 hoses to disconnect (and keep a rag handy as there's usually a little petrol to mop up) and move out of the way.
Once hoses and wiring are all disconnected just lift and turn the assembly through about 180 degrees at the same time and it'll pop out.
It's reasonably large as the pump sits insite the whole sender unit/hose assembly. Think the STi also has an in line fuel filter too which is worth changing depending on age/mileage.
Including taking the seats out, allow 30mins but will take less if you're handy.
Check the pump to see if it's the standard item (part no. easily sourced from Subaru) or a Prodrive/Walbro upgrade.
If it's not been upgraded, source one. The guys at Indigo-GT were doing them for £70 delivered to your door. IMHO, for the price, not worth bothering with 2nd hand unless you know it's done very little work!
On wrapping your pipework - worth doing. Also worth fitting a turbo blanket too. As well as helping to keep under bonnet temps down (which will be higher due in part to increased boost - air heats up the more it's compressed) it will also maintain heat in the exhaust gas. The hotter the gas, the higher the gas velocity. High gas velocity will further help spool, torque and ultimately power especially with the PPP sports cat still in place. Like many things in life - every little helps
As you're using ported/ wrapped headers (also worth doing the same to your up-pipe too if you haven't already) you want to maintain the insulation right through the system to the exhaust to maximise gas flow.
Hope this makes sense and helps.
Cheers,
Stewart.
If you're remotely handy 'on the tools' taking the existing fuel pump out to physically check it is pretty straight forward. First time I did this found it easier to just remove the rear seat and rubber boot trim. Can be done without doing this but it's 5-10mins and gives you all the room to work in the world.
Depressurise the fuel system by disconnecting the fuel pump wiring (which you need to do anyway) and starting the car. Let it run until it conks out then turn it over another couple of times to make sure - it shouldn't start.
Have found that if you do this after leaving the car overnight, system has usually depressurised on it's own.
Lift the boot carpet and you expose an oval panel at the RH rear of the boot. Undo the screws and lift the panel. 3 hoses to disconnect (and keep a rag handy as there's usually a little petrol to mop up) and move out of the way.
Once hoses and wiring are all disconnected just lift and turn the assembly through about 180 degrees at the same time and it'll pop out.
It's reasonably large as the pump sits insite the whole sender unit/hose assembly. Think the STi also has an in line fuel filter too which is worth changing depending on age/mileage.
Including taking the seats out, allow 30mins but will take less if you're handy.
Check the pump to see if it's the standard item (part no. easily sourced from Subaru) or a Prodrive/Walbro upgrade.
If it's not been upgraded, source one. The guys at Indigo-GT were doing them for £70 delivered to your door. IMHO, for the price, not worth bothering with 2nd hand unless you know it's done very little work!
On wrapping your pipework - worth doing. Also worth fitting a turbo blanket too. As well as helping to keep under bonnet temps down (which will be higher due in part to increased boost - air heats up the more it's compressed) it will also maintain heat in the exhaust gas. The hotter the gas, the higher the gas velocity. High gas velocity will further help spool, torque and ultimately power especially with the PPP sports cat still in place. Like many things in life - every little helps
As you're using ported/ wrapped headers (also worth doing the same to your up-pipe too if you haven't already) you want to maintain the insulation right through the system to the exhaust to maximise gas flow.
Hope this makes sense and helps.
Cheers,
Stewart.
I'll whip it out this weekend and have a check. Another member on here local to me has his standard pump to check it against.
26 July 2007, 10:42 AM
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Is the PPP pump up to the job? what is its flow rate.?
Seems like a strangely familiar figure, I'm sure I've seem it somewhere before........
Stewart.
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