Cambelt changed 6000m / 5yrs ago (Classic)
#3
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7years max for cambelt if You do not fancy engine rebuild otherwise keep it to the end
#4
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personally we would change the belt every 5years regardless (unless its a show / storage / garage queen and not actually being used)
no requirement for water pumps generally but would inspect bearings & idlers and replace as / if required
no requirement for water pumps generally but would inspect bearings & idlers and replace as / if required
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#5
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Mines a garage queen
Originally Posted by stockcar
personally we would change the belt every 5years regardless (unless its a show / storage / garage queen and not actually being used)
no requirement for water pumps generally but would inspect bearings & idlers and replace as / if required
no requirement for water pumps generally but would inspect bearings & idlers and replace as / if required
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#7
Will get some quotes. It's actually done 6100 miles in nearly 8 years (time flies), and <1000m since the last oil change, so will just have the belt changed and nothing else!
Do any old school Subaru dealers still exist that charge 'old car friendly' prices !?
Do any old school Subaru dealers still exist that charge 'old car friendly' prices !?
Last edited by Flat4x4-again; 16 August 2022 at 04:26 PM.
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#9
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That reminds me, I must book Len for oil / filter change!
#11
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#14
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It's a very long belt by cambelt standards.
Something I learnt over the years is that if you look at VW's PD engines, especially the twin cam (BKD etc.) They only have a 4yr interval. What's more you can look at live data and see the deviation on the cam timing as the belt stretches causing the timing to change a little when running.
To feel and drive, you'd not notice, bar the PD engine can increase fuel consumption when the timing goes out (as cam timing affects injection timing on PDs). Subarus probably wouldn't make any difference...but then again big long belt and 4cams with 7000rpm redline? Maybe a little.
Also on Ford/PSA DV6 engines that have a 10yr/112k mile belt, they sometimes trigger MAF error codes when giving it some beans, the cause the belt is on its way out or timing has slipped, lowest mile example was 80k 5yrs, so well short of the recommended service interval.
I always used to do mine 5yrs, just because the belt is pretty cheap and its a pretty easy job to do myself when compared to belts on other cars. I did the tensioner/idlers and pumps as and when based on feel. I think at 5yrs one idler bearing had gone dry. After 10yrs the other idler and tensioner pulley also had gone. Car was doing about 4k miles a year.
Also very important is antifreeze change. Or at least test the PH to make sure it's not gone below 7.0PH and started eating your head gaskets. TBH, I just changed mine with the belt (good excuse to take the radiator out the way), using the same type and brand, other wise if switching brands I'd flush fill, flush fill etc.
Something I learnt over the years is that if you look at VW's PD engines, especially the twin cam (BKD etc.) They only have a 4yr interval. What's more you can look at live data and see the deviation on the cam timing as the belt stretches causing the timing to change a little when running.
To feel and drive, you'd not notice, bar the PD engine can increase fuel consumption when the timing goes out (as cam timing affects injection timing on PDs). Subarus probably wouldn't make any difference...but then again big long belt and 4cams with 7000rpm redline? Maybe a little.
Also on Ford/PSA DV6 engines that have a 10yr/112k mile belt, they sometimes trigger MAF error codes when giving it some beans, the cause the belt is on its way out or timing has slipped, lowest mile example was 80k 5yrs, so well short of the recommended service interval.
I always used to do mine 5yrs, just because the belt is pretty cheap and its a pretty easy job to do myself when compared to belts on other cars. I did the tensioner/idlers and pumps as and when based on feel. I think at 5yrs one idler bearing had gone dry. After 10yrs the other idler and tensioner pulley also had gone. Car was doing about 4k miles a year.
Also very important is antifreeze change. Or at least test the PH to make sure it's not gone below 7.0PH and started eating your head gaskets. TBH, I just changed mine with the belt (good excuse to take the radiator out the way), using the same type and brand, other wise if switching brands I'd flush fill, flush fill etc.
Last edited by ALi-B; 17 August 2022 at 10:47 AM.
#15
Scooby Regular
It's a very long belt by cambelt standards.
Something I learnt over the years is that if you look at VW's PD engines, especially the twin cam (BKD etc.) They only have a 4yr interval. What's more you can look at live data and see the deviation on the cam timing as the belt stretches causing the timing to change a little when running.
To feel and drive, you'd not notice, bar the PD engine can increase fuel consumption when the timing goes out (as cam timing affects injection timing on PDs). Subarus probably wouldn't make any difference...but then again big long belt and 4cams with 7000rpm redline? Maybe a little.
Also on Ford/PSA DV6 engines that have a 10yr/112k mile belt, they sometimes trigger MAF error codes when giving it some beans, the cause the belt is on its way out or timing has slipped, lowest mile example was 80k 5yrs, so well short of the recommended service interval.
I always used to do mine 5yrs, just because the belt is pretty cheap and its a pretty easy job to do myself when compared to belts on other cars. I did the tensioner/idlers and pumps as and when based on feel. I think at 5yrs one idler bearing had gone dry. After 10yrs the other idler and tensioner pulley also had gone. Car was doing about 4k miles a year.
Also very important is antifreeze change. Or at least test the PH to make sure it's not gone below 7.0PH and started eating your head gaskets. TBH, I just changed mine with the belt (good excuse to take the radiator out the way), using the same type and brand, other wise if switching brands I'd flush fill, flush fill etc.
Something I learnt over the years is that if you look at VW's PD engines, especially the twin cam (BKD etc.) They only have a 4yr interval. What's more you can look at live data and see the deviation on the cam timing as the belt stretches causing the timing to change a little when running.
To feel and drive, you'd not notice, bar the PD engine can increase fuel consumption when the timing goes out (as cam timing affects injection timing on PDs). Subarus probably wouldn't make any difference...but then again big long belt and 4cams with 7000rpm redline? Maybe a little.
Also on Ford/PSA DV6 engines that have a 10yr/112k mile belt, they sometimes trigger MAF error codes when giving it some beans, the cause the belt is on its way out or timing has slipped, lowest mile example was 80k 5yrs, so well short of the recommended service interval.
I always used to do mine 5yrs, just because the belt is pretty cheap and its a pretty easy job to do myself when compared to belts on other cars. I did the tensioner/idlers and pumps as and when based on feel. I think at 5yrs one idler bearing had gone dry. After 10yrs the other idler and tensioner pulley also had gone. Car was doing about 4k miles a year.
Also very important is antifreeze change. Or at least test the PH to make sure it's not gone below 7.0PH and started eating your head gaskets. TBH, I just changed mine with the belt (good excuse to take the radiator out the way), using the same type and brand, other wise if switching brands I'd flush fill, flush fill etc.
I may be a bit overdue on my 54 plate Passat B5.5 AWX if it's only 4 years?....
#16
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#17
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Its usually 4 or 5 years; VAG did drop it from 5 to 4. Gates state 5yrs, but 4yrs if ambients temps are regularly above 26c or below -6c. So either way it's due. I've generally done our Altea at 5/6yrs.
If you can find someone with VCDS or similar, check out the torsion value when warm at idle on measuring block 004. It should be near to zero give or take 2, if it's higher, timing is off or belt has stretched. Unlike Subarus it's a vernier pulley so you can do fine adjustment if needed.
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