Waiting for the RAC (classic turbo) - any ideas?
#1
Waiting for the RAC (classic turbo) - any ideas?
The car is hardly being driven (600 miles last year). Drove last weekend fine - filled up with Tesco 99 as concerned the other half ot tank might be getting stale.
Started first time then cut out at end of our road. Started again lumpily then drove normally for 20 minutes. Stopped at shop for ten mins then won't start - rev counter 200 300 revs. No noises but reminds me of one I had 15 years ago when bottom end went.
Car is fsh. Everything changed on the dot with Subaru. PPP plus cobra sports cat no other changes in last 5 years.
Any ideas?
Started first time then cut out at end of our road. Started again lumpily then drove normally for 20 minutes. Stopped at shop for ten mins then won't start - rev counter 200 300 revs. No noises but reminds me of one I had 15 years ago when bottom end went.
Car is fsh. Everything changed on the dot with Subaru. PPP plus cobra sports cat no other changes in last 5 years.
Any ideas?
#6
To rule out stale fuel I have to gamble with running the tank down tonight, fill right up, then hope it restarts at the petrol station.
The only other thought is that I also kept a new old stock fuel filler neck from years ago as I remember corrosion used to get into the fuel tank?
Trending Topics
#12
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (6)
Just remove the sigma wiring for fuel pump and bridge it. The alarm/immobiliser will still work as normal as it also disables the starter motor
#14
What year is your car -- the Immobiliser is problematic on some Classics
------
On classics, the fuel pump relay is up above the Accelerator pedal, on a bracket with two(?) other relays
------
On classics, the fuel pump relay is up above the Accelerator pedal, on a bracket with two(?) other relays
Last edited by albob; 15 May 2019 at 12:23 PM.
#16
Scooby Regular
My money's on fuel pump
#17
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (6)
To eliminate the fuel pump relay you can swap it with the heater fan relay which is located next to it as they're the same, easiest way to get to it is to remove the lower half of the dashboard on the drivers side otherwise you'll be upside down in the footwell of the car. you can also short out the switching pins on the relay connector to eliminate the Sigma.
Had problems with my Sigma last year, post here on the problem, still intend on removing it at some point and replacing all the relays
https://www.scoobynet.com/lighting-a...arm-issue.html
Had problems with my Sigma last year, post here on the problem, still intend on removing it at some point and replacing all the relays
https://www.scoobynet.com/lighting-a...arm-issue.html
#20
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (6)
Happy days!
Did they re-solder it all?
usually after sigma fuel pump relay goes...its the sigma indicator module next for flashing when arming/disarming. you'll find one side of the indicator will stay permanently on. Though a number of arms/disarms will usually cure it until it eventually burns out the relay
Did they re-solder it all?
usually after sigma fuel pump relay goes...its the sigma indicator module next for flashing when arming/disarming. you'll find one side of the indicator will stay permanently on. Though a number of arms/disarms will usually cure it until it eventually burns out the relay
#22
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (6)
All of the relays are available for less than £20 for a set so anyone who is competent with a soldering iron can replace them. The big relay is the dual pole for the indicators, the 2 at the bottom switch the feed to the fuel pump and ignition and the one in the middle I guess operates the central locking.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Borat_Drives_A_Scooby
Computer & Technology Related
4
28 January 2008 07:22 AM
Doofus
General Technical
16
13 August 2002 09:04 AM