Waiting for the RAC (classic turbo) - any ideas?
 

The car is hardly being driven (600 miles last year). Drove last weekend fine - filled up with Tesco 99 as concerned the other half ot tank might be getting stale.

Started first time then cut out at end of our road. Started again lumpily then drove normally for 20 minutes. Stopped at shop for ten mins then won't start - rev counter 200 300 revs. No noises but reminds me of one I had 15 years ago when bottom end went.

Car is fsh. Everything changed on the dot with Subaru. PPP plus cobra sports cat no other changes in last 5 years.

Any ideas?

need to check the basics mate. fuel? spark? compression? Any better from cold / hot? battery ok if it covers v.low mileage?

I just hope it's not major. All the electricals changed last year. I had a couple of pops and bangs on the overrun last weekend, but this morning normal start followed by sudden cut out after 2 mins.

Started first time after the hour waiting and ran spot on. Suggested crank sensor or fuel pump getting tired or fuel itself (unlikely?)

My initial thought was crank position sensor. Remember when checking sensors to also check the wiring and connection itself is in good condition.

Makes sense - would it also cause it to cut out when running ?

To rule out stale fuel I have to gamble with running the tank down tonight, fill right up, then hope it restarts at the petrol station.

The only other thought is that I also kept a new old stock fuel filler neck from years ago as I remember corrosion used to get into the fuel tank?

Fuel pump connector corroded/burnt under the back seat ??

And or the plug that goes into the fuel pump hanger under the plate in the boot.

Thanks chaps. Made it home with RAC following. Will start investigating once Ive managed to get a full tank of new fuel into it - I hope!

Mine did this and it seemed to cure it with a new fuel pump although the fuel pump relay also failed a week or so later, this could be due to the Walbro drawing a bit more current than the OEM pump.

Started then cut out this morning. Now can't hear the fuel pump priming on the key so I think we have our culprit !

Will search on here to find out where the relay is - as I can see its not under the bonnet !

Itll be the sigma alarm wiring into the fuel pump main wiring. The relay within the sigma box is failing not the main fuel pump relay. You'll understand why when you see how thin gauge the immobiliser wiring is compared to the main fuel pump wiring

Just remove the sigma wiring for fuel pump and bridge it. The alarm/immobiliser will still work as normal as it also disables the starter motor

Probably stired all the rubbish in the tank and blocked the filter.
change the filter

What year is your car -- the Immobiliser is problematic on some Classics

------

On classics, the fuel pump relay is up above the Accelerator pedal, on a bracket with two(?) other relays

Early 2000 model with the sigma alarm model that is fine until you park it near a radio mast

My money's on fuel pump

To eliminate the fuel pump relay you can swap it with the heater fan relay which is located next to it as they're the same, easiest way to get to it is to remove the lower half of the dashboard on the drivers side otherwise you'll be upside down in the footwell of the car. you can also short out the switching pins on the relay connector to eliminate the Sigma.

Had problems with my Sigma last year, post here on the problem, still intend on removing it at some point and replacing all the relays
https://www.scoobynet.com/lighting-a...arm-issue.html

Shane/Gambit/Albob - all correct !

Sigma circuit board needed re-soldering as it had dried out after nearly 20 years.

Glad you got it sorted.

Happy days!

Did they re-solder it all?

usually after sigma fuel pump relay goes...its the sigma indicator module next for flashing when arming/disarming. you'll find one side of the indicator will stay permanently on. Though a number of arms/disarms will usually cure it until it eventually burns out the relay

Not sure but I need to speak to service manager next week about something else, so will ask. I'm just glad that I still travel to use an old school Subaru dealer who know older cars, as I cant imagine a new franchise operator having a clue!

All of the relays are available for less than £20 for a set so anyone who is competent with a soldering iron can replace them. The big relay is the dual pole for the indicators, the 2 at the bottom switch the feed to the fuel pump and ignition and the one in the middle I guess operates the central locking.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...0a7a569c75.jpg