jonof

So, our WRX STI PPP Bug is going to go hill climbing within the road going production class. I am restricted with how many and how much modification we can do to the car, and as it was such a clean donor car, I am pleased to try and keep it as stock as possible. What I am allowed to do to stay within the class, that will make it go faster, stop faster, and be safer is as follows:

1. Front mounted intercooler kit.
2. racing air induction.
3. racing inlet manifold kit.
4. Better hoses all round.
5. Racing aluminium radiator.
6. Braided brake hoses.
7. racing brake fluid.
8. yellowstuff track / road pads.
9. Half FIA roll cage.
10. FIA race seats.
11. Gauges set.
12. Fire protection.
13. Racing 18" alloys.
14. Geometry set up of prodrive coil overs.
15. upgrade of prodrive exhaust with racier back box.
16. Sticky tyres.
17. Exedy paddle clutch.
18. Complete ECU map once finished with the 'big' bolt on stuff.

I've got a few questions that I'd like to put to everyone...

As I've lost the mounting spot for the forge dump valve as the stock intercooler's gone, which is the best one available for a round mounting, ie onto the intercooller pipework, there is an 1 1/4 round tube for one.

It's getting quite tight for the air filter with the new intercooller pipework, and I was thinking about mounting the air filter (foam type) down on the end of a flexible air tube , down where the fog light would go...am worried about road and rain water affecting the air intake though??

The racing ally rad has a header tank, but I'm looking for a small expansion tank to mount beyond the header tank...needs to be square ideally and about 3/4 of a litre capacity...

What fuel pump should I upgrade to? now that the engine can hopefully breathe both ends a bit better!

I'm currently not allowed to post attachments... how do I rectify that!?
Cheers

MartynJ

You missed the really important bit.
Turbo is free, so you have a massive choice when it comes to how much power you're going to produce and where in the rev range.
An SC42 would be a great choice for hillclimbing on a 2 litre engine with excellent response and plenty of grunt on tap.

jonof

I have thought about changing the turbo, and as the car's gotta go for mapping and setup after the biggish changes we've made, I spoke now is the time!!

jura11

iTrader: (7)

Hi there

What I would say on your list

- Hybrid(HDi) GT2 Front mount,speak here to the Harvey
- RCM V7 Big cone filter
- Racing inlet manifold,not sure what you are mean,but Spec C manifold is good enough for your needs
- OE hoses are OK,I wouldn't brother with better hoses,those silicone hoses are just for look in my view
- Mishimoto are good
- HEL or Goodridge brakes lines are mostly used,personally we are went with HEL brake lines
- Yellowstuff on the heavy new age is bad idea,I would go down the line of the Performance Friction pads or Pagid (speak to the Alyn@AS Performance 0191 410 3770) with Performance Friction RH665 brake fluid

- Swirl pot and proper baffled oil sump with Cosworth baffled plate

-Harvey Up pipe will help you with spool up,ported headers from Harvey or depends on your desired power,GT Spec headers with Harvey Up-pipe will be way to go

- Last bit which I would add to your list is 3-port Baffled Oil Catch Tank,please just don't buy cheap Catch tank from eBay


About the dump valve,not sure,we are not using for few months and really feels much better without the DV

About the induction kit,would say RCM big cone and good cold air feed will be much better,not sure if i would put induction kit down to the fog.

Fuel pump we are using HRC fuel pump,but on yours will depends how much power you are looking to run

About the attachment,probably best will be to create Photobucket account and upload your pics on the Photobucket account and use IMG code

Assume you are running OE VF35 which will make after mapping about the 330-350bhp

Second thing which I would think about is aftermarket ECU like Syvecs,which have datalogging function which can help you on the Hill Climbs,I would add there Sensor pack from Tim@jti.uk.com and if its budget I would add Toucan,which can and will replace all your gauges


Hope this help


Jura

jonof

- Hybrid(HDi) GT2 Front mount,speak here to the Harvey

Managed to get a Cosworth one!!

- RCM V7 Big cone filter

Got a HKS foam one for the mo!

- Racing inlet manifold,not sure what you are mean,but Spec C manifold is good enough for your needs

Again, managed to get a bespoke Cosworth copy!

- OE hoses are OK,I wouldn't brother with better hoses,those silicone hoses are just for look in my view

I sort of agree, although they are v good quality!

- Mishimoto are good

agreed!

- HEL or Goodridge brakes lines are mostly used,personally we are went with HEL brake lines

Can't remember what they are...being fitted next week!

- Yellowstuff on the heavy new age is bad idea,I would go down the line of the Performance Friction pads or Pagid (speak to the Alyn@AS Performance 0191 410 3770) with Performance Friction RH665 brake fluid

Good points!

- Swirl pot and proper baffled oil sump with Cosworth baffled plate

Tell me what this does, and where to get one!?

-Harvey Up pipe will help you with spool up,ported headers from Harvey or depends on your desired power,GT Spec headers with Harvey Up-pipe will be way to go

I've got prodrive up pipes already, which are in perfect nick...

- Last bit which I would add to your list is 3-port Baffled Oil Catch Tank,please just don't buy cheap Catch tank from eBay

Do these simply catch the 'mucky crappy' oil, or serve to increase the oil capacity to aid cooling?

About the dump valve,not sure,we are not using for few months and really feels much better without the DV

Difficult one, as I can see the pros and cons...spoke with Forge earlier and they are sending me one

About the induction kit,would say RCM big cone and good cold air feed will be much better,not sure if i would put induction kit down to the fog.

After today's fettling, managed to get the cold feed pipe down through the inner wing alongside the pipework from the intercooler. The Foam filter, sits perfectly tucked up inside the fog light scoop....Just hope I never drive through a very deep puddle!!
I noticed on your (Jura's) mod you wrapped all of the intercooler pipework in heat shield material...I guess this is a good idea...any preference to which wrap to use?

Fuel pump we are using HRC fuel pump,but on yours will depends how much power you are looking to run

I think I may let Roger Clark Motorsport pick the right one when the car goes there for it's mapping hopefully in 2 weeks...

About the attachment,probably best will be to create Photobucket account and upload your pics on the Photobucket account and use IMG code

I'll try!

Assume you are running OE VF35 which will make after mapping about the 330-350bhp


Yep, OE at the moment, plans to maybe change during the winter...

Second thing which I would think about is aftermarket ECU like Syvecs,which have datalogging function which can help you on the Hill Climbs,I would add there Sensor pack from Tim@jti.uk.com and if its budget I would add Toucan,which can and will replace all your gauges

Maybe for next year!!!!

Hope this help

Jura

Thanks v much buddy!! And love what you did to your wagon!!

jonof

http://s1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh523/fryer888/

Go here for the pics so far!

jura11

iTrader: (7)

Hi there

Before you will spend money on something who claiming will help you speak to Zen performance which is in your area,this company have good track record in building track,Hill Climb,Race cars

About the Cosworth FMIC,not sure this looking like eBay FMIC from pics which you are posted.

As i said before Hybrid(HDi) are proven like by people and mainly they're used in high powered track/race cars for number years.


HKS filter is not the best idea,just due is foam and will not filter much as K&N/Green cotton etc filters.

Here is good test of the Air filters:

http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/

Cosworth Inlet manifold is daddy and is used mainly on high powered cars,I would be very cautious with those Cosworth copies,I don't know who told you about the you will need better Inlet manifold,your current STi inlet manifold is enough at most cases.

Fuel swirl pot will ensure a constant supply of fuel,minimising the risk of an injection pump failure through fuel starvation or air contamination whilst cornering hard.I would say if you are looking do some Hill Climbs,track days or something else,would say is essential

This guy selling full swirl pot:

https://www.scoobynet.com/subaru-par...available.html

Baffled Sump(or proper baffled sump) with Cosworth Baffled plate will/can help prevent oil surge and will save you big bill for engine build.About the Baffled sump speak to the Zen Performance,RCM,AS performance,APi Impreza and Lateral Performance.

Or this should help too:

https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...fled-sump.html

https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...fled-sump.html

https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...affled-me.html


But in perfect world i would go with Zen Dry sump setup,which is best..But cost from £2k


Your Prodrive Up pipe will be OK for your needs,but with better up pipe you will gain on spool and this can be crucial on the Hill Climb...

DV,if you are running OE Recirc,speak to Harvey which selling kit which will allow you fit OE recirc on your FMIC and car will be run smoother with the OE recirc.

Agreed about the RCM fuel pump

About the heatwrapping FMIC pipework would say,our main reason has been,we are not like the silver pipework and we are went with heat wrap,from last time when we're logging ACT(Air Charge Temp) is there difference,not big but is there

About the best heat wrap speak to this company

http://www.thermalvelocity.co.uk/

Or you can go route as many people went with DEI heat wrap.


Jura

jonof

Thanks Jura for your help
I've dropped Zen an email, and hopefully will talk baffled sumps and the like!

About the Cosworth FMIC,not sure this looking like eBay FMIC from pics which you are posted.

Oooppss! I won't show the guy who's hand making it then! He's an ex Prodrive guy, and all of the pipework is bespoke and hand cut and Welded!

HKS filter is not the best idea,just due is foam and will not filter much as K&N/Green cotton etc filters

Only prob I can see with a cone type filter, is that where it's no sitting recessed back into the inner wing at the level of the foglight, the paper filter may get wet, then clog up, then die!! At least with the foam, it can get wet a few times and not mind!

Cosworth Inlet manifold is daddy and is used mainly on high powered cars,I would be very cautious with those Cosworth copies,I don't know who told you about the you will need better Inlet manifold,your current STi inlet manifold is enough at most cases.

Well, again, this one is handmade, and ported and very shiney and polished! Again, it has been hand welded for the car.

Fuel swirl pot will ensure a constant supply of fuel,minimising the risk of an injection pump failure through fuel starvation or air contamination whilst cornering hard.I would say if you are looking do some Hill Climbs,track days or something else,would say is essential

OK, so I'm keen on this idea...where are they normally mounted, engine bay or back? I've dropped the guy on here that's got his setup for sale...

Baffled Sump(or proper baffled sump) with Cosworth Baffled plate will/can help prevent oil surge

Yep, sold on this idea too, and if I can afoord to have it done in this first spend, then I will... I am planning on over the winter either finding a more racey engine, or taking this one out and going through it, which of course would be better than trying to retrofit the sump with the engine in the car...

Your Prodrive Up pipe will be OK for your needs,but with better up pipe you will gain on spool and this can be crucial on the Hill Climb...

Of course, better spool is what I'm aiming for with all the other mods, so which up pipe would exactly fit instead of the prodrive one? I have got a racey manifold but it's missing the up pipe, so haven't fitted it!

DV,if you are running OE Recirc,speak to Harvey which selling kit which will allow you fit OE recirc on your FMIC and car will be run smoother with the OE recirc.

OK, so now you've lost me! There is a DV now coming from Forge. I haven't changed the OE recirc, coz I wouldn't know how to!!! All I've done is remove the TMIC as it was, and install the FMIC. Whatever OE recirc there was, will be fitted back onto the new FMIC. Please can you ellaborate a bit! ta

Agreed about the RCM fuel pump

I just won't know how much it needs to be uprated by!

About the best heat wrap speak to this company
Yep, going to go for the carbon look... I think it will be the same as what you have done to yours

Again, many thanks for your comments!!

jonof

PS...I don't know how to do multiple 'quotes' in my thread reply

jonof

Hi Jura

would a 255 litre per hour fuel pump upgrade be OK...I've got a Walbro one here?
thanks
jono

jura11

iTrader: (7)

Hi Jono

255LPH Walbro/RCM/HRC will be OK for your needs.

Swirl pot is usually mounted at rear,but you can mount too in engine bay,only depends on you

What headers you are running 3bolt or two bolt,do you have pics of them?

Harvey selling like 2 bolt or 3 bolt

Your current OE recirc is still on the TMIC?

If yes should be easy to remove and you can refit this on your FMIC, Harvey selling kit which will/can allow you fit OE recirc on yours

Here is link on his thread:
https://www.scoobynet.com/trader-ann...cessories.html


Jura

jonof

Hi Jura
'soz, been hectic here!
Pump's arriving tomorrow.
the headers are 3 stud Prodrive, although I do have another Japspeed one here which would need an up pipe.
No the OE recirc was blanked and a Forge dump valve fitted to the TMIC.
Now that the FMIC is fitted, the OE recirc is still blanked and a new Forge dual dump valve has been fitted.....
plan is to hopefully start her tomorrow, and then she's going upto RMC next week for Geom set-up and remap.
Then back for the half cage and seats, harnesses and few other tweaks!
1st comp is on the 29th July!
haha

jonof

Help!!
So everything's all back together, and she started, but runs really badly! Smells really rich, and hasn't got any proper throttle response!
Any ideas?
Ta

timthebat

iTrader: (14)

I would of thought she's gone into limp mode by what you say about throttle response, mapping is needed to adjust to your new spec. If you have had the map adjusted already.......ohhh dear!!
HTH

jonof

You could be right...Nope the remap work is next week!! Hope it's got enough power to get it on the trailer hahahaha

Arch

iTrader: (59)

Even though you will be competing in the road car classes you are going to have to get the car as light as possible within the rules. You will be up against classics and evo's amongst others which will be much lighter than you bug. Depending on where you are competing you will need 400bhp + to be even remotely competative. I was running a classic with around 500bhp on a 2.5 and it was on the verge of dropping out of contention due to lack of power when compared to some of the evo's i was up against.

I do not think you will need a dry sump for hills and sprints as mentioned before the cosworth fmic is overkill an HDI one will work well at your power levels.
In terms of alloy radiators, given the time on track of most hills and sprints by adding an alloy radiator you increase the water you carry and hence the weight but get very little extra cooling due to the short times of the runs so in my opinion keep the oem radiator as long as it is in good condition and spend the money else where.

In terms of exhaust a full 3" system is a must.

You will need to spend money on the handling side of things as this really is critical, power will only get you so far.

jonof

thanks for your comments!
We've altered the works, and a SC46 billet, 3" full RCM system including RCM headers is being fitted.
Weight of course will be an issue, as the class regs prevents me from stripping etc, it will be interesting to see.
Re the ally rad etc, I intend to use this on track days too, so the tradeoff and the extra weight of the water, will hopefully not have too great an effect!
I am also fitting a set of good adjustable coilovers
cheers

Arch

iTrader: (59)

Any weight you add to your car will be an issue as you start from a position of lower power to weight when compared to a classic. There are plenty places you can remove weight and still stay within the blue book road car regs.