Up_North

So you think the UK spec sound system is bad - my JDM STi 9 doesn't have tweeters or even brackets for them!!! So I thought I'd have a go at making some brackets but I'm struggling to work out how they should be mounted.

This is a picture of the area where the bracket should be:



There's 3 holes - I don't think the top one is used - I have a feeling the bracket runs horizontally using the other two equal height holes. If anybody would like to describe the profile of the bracket that would be a help too!! I'm guessing the tweeter is angled inwards to be flush-ish with the grill.

I get the feeling I'm gonna wish I never started this!!!

Cheers

Ian

Ajax

Look under front speakers

http://www.connec2.co.uk/subaru/subaru.htm

Its just a bent strip of metal with a hole in each end, the tweeter is screwed through a centre hole on the strip, because it was hard to fit a screw in the back of the plastic tweeter holder and as I did not want it to vibrate loose I used poxy resin glue to hold the tweeter housing to the bent strip of metal.

Hope that’s clear, its nothing fancy, and its only there to hold the tweeter off the metal door and let the wire out the back.

Another idea is to mount it on an small off cut block of mdf,, for what it matters.

Don’t worry easy, you aint gona see it when its done

Up_North

Ajax,

Thanx for that - seen that site before - completely forgot about it. This is gonna be a tw@t to do!!!! Might surface mount on triangle thing in the corner of the door!!!

Ian

Ajax

Cant really see why it’s a problem, find an old bit of metal tea tray or something.

Light gauge metal plate, bend it into a bridge shape and stick there holes in it, one in the centre to hold the tweeter housing to the bracket + a bit of poxy glue and the other two holes to screw it to the inside door panel.

Can't be that hard.

Ajax

Up_North

Ajax,

OK - you shamed me into it!! Think i made quite a good job of it in the end. The difficultyI had was trying to visualise where the tweeter would be when the door card was back on. Will post some pics soon.

Problem now is that I thought the adapters used for Corsa's were suitable for Impreza's for the mids - but I can't get the holes to line up!!! Didn't want to use MDF - not that dextrous - but will give it a go!!!!

Ian

Ajax

Right, get some 12mm MDF

About 12” X 24” as I remember, and draw a vertical cross at 6” from the edge and then across the centre line

Mark the diameter, that lets the main body of the new speaker throught + a bit, find an old tin the same size if you have not got a compass.

Drill some hole to let your jigsaw through and whip both the large holes out first, with the block of MDF in on piece.

Lay yer new speakers into the hole you have cut out and mark the fixings for your new speakers..

Lay your old speakers over the hole you have cut out, using the marked holes to align, and draw around them and mark the fixings for clearance holes to let the new longer fixing screws through, that will be used to screw into the plastic fixings in the door.

Now its time to jig saw to the outer marked line.

Doing it this way you get the big chunk of wood to work with before you cut it up.

File it up and clean, MDF is soft and so easy to work with.

Piece of cake.

Don’t forget to sound deaden the door skins, and also note the MDF collar is on the outer side of the plastic sheet when you fit it to the door.











Ajax

Up_North

Ajax,

Superb instructions!!! Cheers. Will post some pics when mine are done. Off to local wood place to get some MDF - will probably be better than adapters anyway - I think wood's probably more sound absorbant than plastic.

Again - many thanx.

Ian

Ajax

Up North:

It's just my way of paying back the help, I got on Scoobynet when I did my install.

It’s very satisfying to do it yourself, and the difference is quite remarkable.

Post pictures of your install, always interested to see ICE melt on a hot day

Paul

AKA Ajax

Up_North

Ajax

You have PM re your help!!!

Ian

Ajax

Ian you have pm Mail

Up_North

Well, all done. I was in B&Q and noticed a packet of 4 6 inch perforated metal strips (they called them mending strips) - noticed they were quite pliable so bought a pack. Gettng the first bracket was trial and error cos it was difficult to work out the profile and hence the angle of the tweeter in relation to the door card. Note this photo is passenger side door - original photo was drivers side. I then rerouted the tweeter cable to make it look neater!!!

I decided not to mount the cross over on the door itself - even after making a bracket it was gonna be a pain because of the size and mounting hole location. In the end I velcroed and double sided taped the crossover to the inside of the door card. So the cables come through a hole in the plastic membrane - sounds crude but works a treat. Just got to be careful if ever I need to remove the door card again. 12mm MDF was cut using a Rotozip.

Huge thanx to Ajax for his excellent step by step guide and his "get on with it you wuss" attitude!!!! Next time you're in Southport drinks are on me!!



Ian

Ajax

Up North:

Ian

When you have done the job you wonder what all the fuss was about, I was the same as you when starting out on the project.

Now you have done it its’ very pleasing to hear the fruits of your labour.

Are you doing the bass, it’s the cream on the cake, especially when driving with a noisy exhaust.

Thanks for the pictures, very neat.

Well done M8

Ajax

Up_North

Ajax,

Gonna have to do summit with tha bass. I think the things that were in there originally, although generally rubbish did have a bit of bass. My new ones really do seem to be tweeters and mid-range - very little bass.

Just another point - so that I don't have the rear OEM speakers on is it better to leave the fader set to fron or disconnect them and set the fader to middle?

Ian

Ajax

Ian

I have got my rear speakers just on to fill in, so they just add to a very - very slight rear ambiance.

But the main definition of the sound is coming predominantly from the front.

As for doing the Bass, two rolls of sound deadening in the boot and lid area hold back exhaust noise even without the head unit on, this is a bonus.

You can still hear your exhaust it’s just less irritating on the motorway as the edge is taken off the exhaust note.

It will never be quiet.

I take it you have seen my posts for the infinity bassLinkX

http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=348321

Ajax

olliecampbell

iTrader: (3)

I was thinking about doing this as well, how do you wire up the tweeters into the scooby wiring loom?

Up_North

This is for the new age 2001 onwards car....

Disconnect the big speaker things at the bottom of the doors. There are 2 sets of wires going into the connectors. Snip the wires so the connector drops off - it will help not to cut it too close to the connector - leave a bit of wire sticking out so you know which colour is positive and negative.

One set comes from the head unit - another set goes up to the tweeter connector. Find the set which DOESN'T go to the tweeter (i used a multimeter to bridge each wire to the end of the tweeter connector - the one with NO continutity comes from the head unit) - this set is therefore from the head unit and needs to go into the input terminals of the crossover - you will probably need to lengthen the cable depending on where you mount your crossover. As Ajax said - the positive wire on the old speaker terminal is the vertical bar of the T shape connector - use the colour reference from the snipped off connector to work out which way round the crossover is to be wired.

The wires which do go to the tweeter can be disregarded,

The crossover will have outputs for mids and tweeters (my CDT also has an output for an image tweeter - whatever one of them is!!). So it's just a case of running wires from those outputs to the new spaeakers - you might be able to make use of the redundant tweeter wires but probably not.

If your car already has tweeters, I think the crossover is ctually a little resistor on the back of the tweeter!!!!

Ian