Turns over but wont start
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Turns over but wont start
Hi, can anyone help me?
Battery finally died yesterday after it completely discharged when door was left ajar for a couple of days, tried to jump it but wouldn't take a charge even after about 30min of being connected to a big transit, so I replaced it and the car started fine (MY00 turbo 2000). Turned her off and went to bed.
Tried to start her this morning, she turns over but refuses to start. I don't think its the starter motor, the belts move like the flywheel is being engaged. Gave it a tap anyway whilst someone turned the key but still refused to start. It seems fuel related. There is about 1/4 of a tank left so its not empty.
No fault code is displayed, CEL just flashes with even gaps when black under dash connectors are coupled. When I connect the green ones the system check goes ahead as normal but a rapid clicking from the drivers side in the engine bay near the air filter (boost solenoid?) continues for about a minute after I switch off the ignition and disconnect the green connectors. Is this normal? I can't remember it happening before.
The car was running ok before the battery went, had an occasionally rough idle and stuttered under load sometimes. Changed the lambda sensor because she was throwing a code for it (decat exhaust, only one sensor on top, no code after sensor was changed) still showed same symptom but less so and no codes displayed even following test drive procedures.
I think there are several problems here, just want her to start first though!
Can anyone help with diagnostics to find the problem?
I have a multimeter but no idea what to look for and where.
Battery finally died yesterday after it completely discharged when door was left ajar for a couple of days, tried to jump it but wouldn't take a charge even after about 30min of being connected to a big transit, so I replaced it and the car started fine (MY00 turbo 2000). Turned her off and went to bed.
Tried to start her this morning, she turns over but refuses to start. I don't think its the starter motor, the belts move like the flywheel is being engaged. Gave it a tap anyway whilst someone turned the key but still refused to start. It seems fuel related. There is about 1/4 of a tank left so its not empty.
No fault code is displayed, CEL just flashes with even gaps when black under dash connectors are coupled. When I connect the green ones the system check goes ahead as normal but a rapid clicking from the drivers side in the engine bay near the air filter (boost solenoid?) continues for about a minute after I switch off the ignition and disconnect the green connectors. Is this normal? I can't remember it happening before.
The car was running ok before the battery went, had an occasionally rough idle and stuttered under load sometimes. Changed the lambda sensor because she was throwing a code for it (decat exhaust, only one sensor on top, no code after sensor was changed) still showed same symptom but less so and no codes displayed even following test drive procedures.
I think there are several problems here, just want her to start first though!
Can anyone help with diagnostics to find the problem?
I have a multimeter but no idea what to look for and where.
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Also, forgot to mention - supposed to be getting a new clutch fitted next week since this ones on its last legs, more slip than grip, really have to nurse it when I drive her. Could that have something to do with it?
Seriously lacking in technical knowledge.
Tez
Seriously lacking in technical knowledge.
Tez
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sounds very odd, especially given that it started when you put the new battery on.
Can anyone advise if it's possible for the ECU to lose it's key code in this sort of circumstance?
Can anyone advise if it's possible for the ECU to lose it's key code in this sort of circumstance?
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Right, I've checked all the fuses I know about - under dash and in engine bay, all have continuity.
Discovered something when unplugging things (boost solenoid and the one next to it, then the MAF) and checking for continuity - the housing for the MAF (or MAP not sure) is not bolted to the air filter box at all. might explain some of the idle/running issues, no?
Anyway, only the solenoid with the blue plug next to the boost solenoid showed continuity, not sure I checked correctly though, the others had more than two pins and frankly I have no idea what I'm doing.
Plugged them back in securely, reset the ecu and did another check for codes, giving me 44 and 45. I double and triple checked I'd put them back securely after that, reset and tested again a few times, same codes. Still wont start, still behaving like no fuel getting to engine.
44 and 45 are MAP sensor and wastegate contol solenoid. could faults with these explain the problem starting?
Tez
Discovered something when unplugging things (boost solenoid and the one next to it, then the MAF) and checking for continuity - the housing for the MAF (or MAP not sure) is not bolted to the air filter box at all. might explain some of the idle/running issues, no?
Anyway, only the solenoid with the blue plug next to the boost solenoid showed continuity, not sure I checked correctly though, the others had more than two pins and frankly I have no idea what I'm doing.
Plugged them back in securely, reset the ecu and did another check for codes, giving me 44 and 45. I double and triple checked I'd put them back securely after that, reset and tested again a few times, same codes. Still wont start, still behaving like no fuel getting to engine.
44 and 45 are MAP sensor and wastegate contol solenoid. could faults with these explain the problem starting?
Tez
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Mine did this
had codes for knock sensor
and wouldnt start
found water in main plug for engine loom on drivers side
cleaned and wd40
turned key and fired straight up
dont no if that helps
had codes for knock sensor
and wouldnt start
found water in main plug for engine loom on drivers side
cleaned and wd40
turned key and fired straight up
dont no if that helps
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Thanks, will try that tomorrow morning since its dark an bloody cold out and I'm not sure which plug you mean.
Found a good resource whist trawling for answers mind
http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals
I'm going to try disconnecting and reconnecting the battery to simulate the conditions which got her started last night and see if that works.
Found a good resource whist trawling for answers mind
http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals
I'm going to try disconnecting and reconnecting the battery to simulate the conditions which got her started last night and see if that works.
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Nope, still not starting after disconnecting, leavin 30min an reconnecting battery. Was some water in the battery tray, so maybe there is a wet connector somewhere, I'll find out tomorrow.
Tez
Tez
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She goes!
Cheers turbotits, that did the trick. Went through the process you described 3 or 4 times (fuse for fuel pump is number 11 under the dash for anyone looking for it, the ignition one) and she finally started with help of a few whacks the starter motor too. Now, just the clutch and idle issues to sort...
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Cheers turbotits, that did the trick. Went through the process you described 3 or 4 times (fuse for fuel pump is number 11 under the dash for anyone looking for it, the ignition one) and she finally started with help of a few whacks the starter motor too. Now, just the clutch and idle issues to sort...
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