Barracuda_82

iTrader: (3)

I've got a big small problem with my engine. It has been out of the car to fix a few things, but there's one thing I can't fix... let me explain the situation breefly:

The cooling liquid return line of the turbo connects to the head just above the oil return. This picture shows the problem quite good:



The connection between the banjo bolt and the head isn't straight. The banjo bolt is good, the threads are good, the copper rings are okay. It's just that it doesn't line up. This photoshop makes it more clear:



I tried to straighten it up with a file and this helped a lot, but I can't get it exactly flat and straight with my simple tools (files, sandpaper, etc).

Now i'm looking for something to use instead of the copper rings that seals the uneven surface better... maybe a rubber or fiber ring? I am quite clueless at this point...

I'm going to try one last time next saturday and before that I'd like to collect as many feedback as possible. These are a few questions/idea's that popped up in my mind:

1. Could i use rubber o-rings? I guess not, but who knows...
2. The steeringpump has some sort of metal rings with a rubber inner ring. Could I use those rings (in a bigger diameter)?
3. Could I use fiber rings? The ones used in faucets and heating systems?
4. Does somebody know of any other type of rings that I could use?
5. Does somebody know of some kind of coupler that I could use on this thread (M12 x 1.25). This coupler cannot be to "deep" due to the uppipe running right next to it.
6. Is it possible that the head cracks when using a coupler with tapered thread?
7. Could I use some sort of straight connector and run the hoses around the uppipe?

Alll ideas and feedback are appreciated since i'm totally clueless!

Ian

iTrader: (10)

can you bend the pipe so it sits flush to the turbo? from the pic, it looks like the pipe is being held back abit so it is not free standing if you know what i mean?

Barracuda_82

iTrader: (3)

The pipe is exactly straight. 100% sure about that. There is one little brace that could do what you're pointing out, but I cut that one of and the pipe is now completely free and only touches the engine via the copper ring. No other connections or something.

mau5matt

i had this same problem with my nissan 200sx s14,

with the heat running thru them.... than cooling...then heating up again they twist only slightly and when they get removed they ping out of shape and are a nightmare to get back on!!

after a long time trying differant ways to sort it i was told to put braided lines on!

i did the oil wile i was at it and they all flew on with out a single issue

scoobymikepic

iTrader: (3)

dump the copper washers and fit dowty seals.
this will cure it forever, did on my last 3 scooby anyway. cheers scoobymike

Barracuda_82

iTrader: (3)

@mau5matt: you're suggesting to use AN fittings and braided hoses?

@scoobymike: dowty seals sound like a good sollution... But I understand there are different types of those seals: copper, metal, etc. Which should I choose?

wrxyz

iTrader: (2)

Personally I think the permanant fix would be the braided line. For whatever reason something is out of alignment; the dowty seals will work, but will not make the alignment correct.
the braided line will allow the fitting to sit in the right place.

Not criticising the seal suggestion I just think the flexi hose is better.

Barracuda_82

iTrader: (3)

I fixed it with the dowty seals! Yay!

And a little bit of teflon tape. Didn't like that, but wanted to be sure the leak was sealed this time.



Now on to fixed the next problem :P