d.kenny

exactly that really...got an n reg wrx and the crank has started knocking so gonna throw a second hand lump in but are the classics and modern ej20 engines the same...i.e are the bottom ends the same and i will just bolt my ancillaries on???

cheers

WMS

iTrader: (2)

Short engines are essentially the same and you can swap all your parts over

etxp85

whast the difference between a short and long one?

Shaun

Short engine is bottom end. Long engine includes the heads (complete engine).

Shaun

The bottom ends are not all the same though, even if you can just swap them over.

Some are "better" than others.

d.kenny

well just bought an engine and its out of an n reg...been told its the 'better one'...will be fitting it over the weekend...noticed before crank went though it did feel a bit sluggish...was boosting ok well to just over half a bar but felt slow in comparison to other subarus...the dump valve isnt the best so i tried blocking it off for the 'chirp' but was still crap...any ideas on what this could be or where to generally look for a boost leak???

d.kenny

just taking my engine out and i have red that the clutch fork has to be disengaged but the 10mm allan bolt holding the fork in place is stupidly tight to the point where i looked at the bar i started swinging off and realisaed that im gonna end up breaking my 100 pound ratchet!!!

i dont see why it even has to be pulled out...can someone enlighten me???

all ancillaries are now off and it just a matter of undoing the bell housing bolts and engine mounts and it should come free!

andy-m

iTrader: (1)

if its a pull clutch rather than a push, then thats probably why.
there is an alternative.
when taking my gearbox out, I couldnt get it to seperate from the engine and ended up pulling them apart about half inch, then putting a spanner between the two to undo the bolts that bolt the diaphram to the flywheel.
that was on my 1st scoob and the 1st time i had seen a pull type clutch.

basicaly the thrust bearing is on ur clutch fork and pops in 2 the end of the diaphram. when u press the clutch, it pulls the diaphram rather than pushes it so you can see, its in there with some force and u wont pull it out. gotta undo that bolt on the fork really unless u wanna take the box out n do what I did

frodge

mine was also tight , i used a breaker bar which sorted the job out but just make sure the allen socket is a good fit and the bar/socket are minimum 1/2" drive and then justscrew a bolt into the clutch fork pin and pull it out , this in itself can be quite difficult to remove , i used a small pry bar under the head of the bolt to lever it out .

d.kenny

done it all now and got new engine in...so many vac pipes and that on these japanese engines and the metric fine threads they use are stupid...running well though except for a boost leak which i suspect is down to a fooked dump valve...gonna block it off and see if there is any change...getting just over half a bar of boost is this normal?