jimnco

Hi ive bought a 1996 turbo wagon uk 208bhp early this year its the v1 I think it needed a little tlc new cv boots, new calipers alround, abs ring on o/s/f was broke and abs sensor was missing it had the springs cut as well so ive put the sti pink spring on so it sits nice anyway it has always had a boost problem from the day i brought it home, it goes through the gears nice if driving soft/normal but if you put ya foot down it will reach 4/5 k & its like a limiter it just wont go past 4/5k unless i let off the pedal I have read a few fourms & ive changed the boost solnoid (3port) but not the other stuff near it ive put brake cleaner through new solnoid and the pipes cleaned the intake from MAF back & even lowerd the engine oil to half full (under hole not notch) put new plugs in (NGK platunem) I was wondering as it has a decat system and ramair filter n colins dv would it need a remap chip in the ecu as i have looked and it doesnt have one I have also reset the ecu and no codes are showing after a 5min run in it (cant go far in it as no MOT) but did have a few errors before tho they were (44) (45) (24) (11) the only one that worrys me is (11) as ive been messing with the others when engine was running i.e putting cleaner through them aslo the car revs dip if you rev of drive hard it has stalled a few times also what is the best fuel to use normal of premium

any help or advice would be great as its my first scooby & first turbo car

thanks Jim

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

Being slightly pedantic there are no versions of classic UK imprezas only the japanese classic STIs
Your car will be fine on 95 RON unleaded but you can put super unleaded if you want to.

So you have no error codes now?
4.5K is normally limp home mode (limited revs and limited boost) but normally you get the CEL coming one.

jimnco

hi thanks for the reply when i said v1 i ment the vents on the bonet are lines not the honey cone ones i didnt know if there was any difference in the spec but thanks for letting me know yeah i reset the ecu as most of the codes were from when i unpluged a sensor or two (boost sensor, idel control) to clean the oil out of them. There were oil in solnoid and in a few pipes coming off the air intake as the engine oil was over max (at the notch not hole) so i jacked my car up so it was level as my driveway dips n lowerd the oil (under the hole) before i cleaned the pipes n stuff then checked the ecu got the codes 44,45,24,11 so i reset it. I had it ticking over for 5 mins to warm up then ran it for 5 mins mormal/hard then checked the ecu but no code now yet the car is still the same .....Ive been told to change the MAF but if it was that causing the prob it would show up as an error on ecu wouldnt it?

any advice would be great as ive read lots of fourms n tried a few thing before i decided to start my own thread

Jim

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

The error code system only seems to pick up failed sensors rather than failing sensors imo.
Find a good local garage (preferably somone who deals with imprezas imo) that has a select monitor and can read the MAF voltage.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, we know that.

What mbwrx was saying, is that the "Version..." moniker was only marketed by Subaru for the JDM STi Classic variants. So all other UK/RoW Turbo 2000/GT and JDM WRX Classics should NOT be referred to as "Version..." -- or otherwise ve vill haf to kill you!

Furthermore, re. the very first STi: it was simply called "Version" and not "Version I", because it was the very 1st one lol - i.e. presumably Subaru didn't necessarily forsee that they'd make the other II, III, IV, V, VI versions, as at the time, they prob had no idea that a cult would come about and the high demand for the STi variant would continue apace.........

jimnco

cheers for the info what a "imo" if you dont mind

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

Which coil pack(s) do you have, do the leads come from a unit bolted on the top of the manifold or are they the idividual type? (iirc '96 is the change over year is it not?) These would be well worth checking out for deteriation/cracks ect, perhaps post a pic of the engine bay so we can see

As a matter of course, i would remove the ram-air and the DV, replacing both with the OE items, the OE airbox i would fit with a K&N panel filter

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Modern internet/text speak acronyms.

IMO = in my opinion
IMHO = in my humble/honest opinion

jimnco

hi the coil pack are individual i changed the spark plugs a few week ago and the coils look ok there were no cracks that i could see but i have a few hours spare today so i am gonna strip the pipes and check coil pack again and see if there is oil back in any pipes i cant take the car for a spin for a few days as i am having a new wheel bearing fitted and i have taken off the hub to take to a garage but thanks so far if you get any more ideas or advice please keep it coming ....will also find a standard dv and put oe airbox back on

thanks again

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

It's almost most impossible to pass coilpacks as being fit for purpose - micro fractures can cause shorting. They will now be 14-15 yo and are prob knackered to a lesser or greater degree.