coll_52

iTrader: (1)

as above whats the best brand of oil to use on this model scooby this will be my first oil change what one the best for price and is it evry 4k the oil gets changed ?

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Recommended I believe is 5W-30.

A lot of owners up the 'hot' weight to a thicker 40. So they fit a 5W-40 for a bit of extra protection when hooning (and thus thinning the oil).


Regardless of the recommended weight for your car, I think the best all round oil weight 'compromise' is a 10W-50. Either Millers CFS or Silkolene Titan Pro S.

95turbowagon

iTrader: (17)

Millers oil from what i've heard from other members is good stuff, i've just ordered some from opie oils think it was £72 including filter for 6 litres of 10w40 fully synthetic.

Not sure on recomended oil change time on a classic but on the bug i think it's around 10k.

95turbowagon

iTrader: (17)

Millers oil from what i've heard from other members is good stuff, i've just ordered some from opie oils think it was £72 including filter for 6 litres of 10w40 fully synthetic.

Not sure on recomended oil change time on a classic but on the bug i think it's around 10k.

coll_52

iTrader: (1)

the guy has been using silkoline 15/40 i think do i have to take out the crank sensor and spin the engine over for 30 seconds ?

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Yes, after oil/filter change, disconnect crank sensor and spin the motor on the starter till oil light goes out.

95turbowagon

iTrader: (17)

Is this applicable on all engines, will be getting mine done in a few weeks. (bug wrx)

WhiteWagonMan

iTrader: (34)

Some will say disconnect the crank sensor after and oil/filter change and some will say theres no need,its up to you really mate.personally i dont as the engine is already fully coated in oil so its pointless unless you`ve had a rebuild or had the engine totally flushed ready for clean oil.i use fuchs 10w40 and change the oil every 3500k,if using more expensive oil then change at a higher mileage like 5k or 6k.Again its a very broad and opinionated subject.

Splitpin

It doesn't do any harm (other than possibly shorten the life of your starter motor a tiny bit) and can potentially eliminate a significant cause of avoidable engine wear. IMO it's a bit silly not to do it.

95turbowagon

iTrader: (17)

Cheers i will pass that info onto the garage doing the oil change, so to clarify disconnect crank sensor and spin on starter motor till oil light goes out.

Splitpin

I'd normally go with giving it around 20-30 seconds on the starter (in one continuous go, rather than separate bursts), or oil light off +15 seconds, whichever is the longer.

Also note that if you have a bugeye, the alternative to disconnecting the crank position sensor is removing the ECU fuse (SBF5 in the engine bay box). The end result is the same, and on a newage this avoids a perfectly routine temporary appearance of the check engine light.

coll_52

iTrader: (1)

if i disconnect the crank sensor is the ecu gonna throw up a fault code or does it reset?
because my 02 beemer thows up bloody fault codes left and right even if the oil cap is insicure lucky i have the tool lol

Splitpin

If you have a classic, under most circumstances you will not see the check engine light at all. If you do, it'll go off immediately you reconnect the sensor.

On a newage you probably will see the check engine light, but it will go out after either three or six problem-free starts. As above you can eliminate this by disconnecting the fuse instead of the sensor.

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Can you confirm exactly what model car you have? you say in the title that its a classic 2001 wrx, yet they stopped building classics in 2000, is it actually a 2001 bug eye WRX (which replaced the turbo 2000's)? or is it a classic JDM wrx? The outcome will differ due to enhancements/improvements as no way would I run a 5w30 oil in a classic (even subaru dont recommend it) and would stick with a 10w40 semi synthetic oil.

Tony

coll_52

iTrader: (1)

its a classic first reg feb 2001 but on a 51 has had a reg change here is my new baby pick up tomorrow all thigs going well at hypertec

http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/1899477.htm

coll_52

iTrader: (1)

this is the online data check

Make & Model Subaru Impreza Turbo 2000 Awd
VIN Check You have not performed a VIN check yet. Engine Size 1994cc
Engine Number 980397
First Registered 14 Feb 2001
Year Manufactured 2001
Former Keepers 2
Last Keeper Change The last recorded change of keeper occurred on 11 Jun 2006
Body 4 Door Saloon
Colour Red
Fuel Petrol
Security Markings This vehicle has not yet been protected against identity theft. Click here for more information

Splitpin

That is a 2000 model year car, not a 2001. As Tony says, all 2001MY turbocharged Imprezas were the bugeye model. Whatever the V5/online check says, it will have been manufactured sometime prior to August 2000, and then probably left around on an airfield for a few months.

Incidentally, there's a slight discrepancy between what you say is the date of first registration, and what you appear to be suggesting is the current registration mark.

If the car was registered and first used in February 2001, it should be on an X or possibly Y plate. Theoretically it's an offence for it to be on a 51, as you're not allowed to register a car on a plate that suggests it's newer than it is. If it's had a change, what was the original prefix?

Bit of a discrepancy there that is probably worth checking out sooner rather than later.

coll_52

iTrader: (1)

Well it says its had a plate change but would have to pay extra to see what the plate change is rest assured I will be showing this to the owner but as he has had it 4 years witch also ties up with the last keeper change am not worried to be honest if you give me five mins all see whT I can do

coll_52

iTrader: (1)

the registration has been involved in a plate transfer history is below

R477VSM OFF 14TH FEB 2001
M2LAS ON 14 FEB 2001 OFF 30TH NOV 2004
X251SSW ON 30TH NOV 2004

what is the descrepancy ?

Splitpin

Lol, the discrepancy was apparently in your comment in post #15 about it being "first reg feb 2001 but on a 51". That read as though you thought the car had a "51" registration - which, as I said above, would have been illegal.

It's not on a 51 plate, is it? It's currently on an X, which would be correct for the reg date. Hence, there's no discrepancy, just a mistake in your earlier post.

coll_52

iTrader: (1)

Am getting totaly mixed up here I thought if it was first half 2001 it would be on a 01 plate second half of the yer would be a 51 so anyway I have a classic 2000 model eventhough it was first reg in 2001 so what's the best oil ?

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

I think there are two dates on the V5C - one for date of manufacture; the other for date of first registration.

Now we can clearly see it's a MY2000 Classic - so the manu'd date should be any day between Sep 1999 and Aug 2000.

But as Splitpin said, after they roll out of the factory they are temp. stored in a big open space prior to being transported to a dealership. Now any number of weeks or months can elapse until this happens, so the date of registration could well be Feb 2001.

I reckon you have quoted the date of 1st reg instead of date of manufacture..............


(I know it says year manu'd as 2001... But we all know how crap databases can be - esp. anything to do with DVLA).

Splitpin

No, it wouldn't, there's no such thing as an "01" registration. The first of the new style registration marks was the 51, introduced in September 2001. March-August '01 was Y-, on the old style plates, and Sept 2000-Feb 01 was X. Hence yours being on an X-. The confusing part of your earlier post was the line about it being "on a 51". I take it this was because you saw X251 SSW?

There are plenty of good oils. As I think has already been said 5w/40 or so is about ideal for regular road driving, maybe 10/50 to 15/50 if you drive it hard. Fully synth preferable.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Ahhh, well spotted - that MUST be what accounts for the OP's reasoning/fixation with "51" then... Just an unfortunate coincidence.

coll_52

iTrader: (1)

Yes yes exactly righ saw the 51 saw the reg date on the v5 and got completely mixed up so I have my2000 that was rolled out the factory had a temp spot in storage befor it got taken to a stealers and was reg feb 2001 glad that's all sorted

Thank u for clearing that up chaps appreciated

coll_52

iTrader: (1)

Will be going to hypertec today to chat to Duncan about the engine work whatever engine oil he tells me to put In I will

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Glad we all sorted that out - nice one!