Journeyman

I have not posted on here for quite some time now but I have a few nagging questions that I cannot seem to find the answers to with the search button.

Before my recent new mod I had the standard downpipe with the restrictive cat and a Kakimoto catback system (now for sale) and green panel filter, the peak boast was 1.1bar and on the rollers it was making 249 bhp and 243 torque.


I've recently fitted a Ninja sports cat downpipe, Afterburner decat centre and Afterburner Vortex backbox to my lightly modded MY99 turbo wagon.

Obviously now the car is producing more boost and the standard ECU is having problems with overboosting and the fuel cut etc (interestingly it can hit 1.3/1.4 bar (eek!) and the fuel cut sometimes does not kick in @1.2bar, anybody know why?). I've just bought a Dawes Device from a follow scooby netter to keep the boost in check and limit it to 16.5 psi or 1.13bar until I can get a remap. I'll be getting a knocklink too.

My question is, what ecu's will fit my car (sept '99) and what aftermarket ecu's can be remapped for my car?. I've found a list of factory ecu's from another thread but it does not mention the MY99's, is there an upgraded ECU that will work in my car without a remap?

U8, 2C - 1993/1994 WRX - 11.47psi saloon
W6 - 1993 WRX RA - 11.47psi saloon
W9 - 1994 WRX RA - 11.47psi saloon
Z4 - 1995/1996 WRX - 12.78psi saloon
Z5 - 1995/1996 WRX-RA - 12.57psi saloon
6K - Ver2 STi Sedan - 13.34psi saloon (not recommended - will run but not ideal some have had problems)
7K - Ver2 STi-RA - 13.19psi saloon
1C, 3B, V9, V5 - All WRX Wagons 10psi, dropping to 6.8psi (dont use these in a saloon)
V7, 7D, 6D - 1993 to 1996 UK/Euro 11.47psi (dont use these in a wrx import)

nerocircus

iTrader: (1)

Sorry if it's an obvious question, but why don't you wanna opt for an ECUTEK remap of your current ECU?

I only ask as I have a MY99 also, and am currently considering my options...

Journeyman

for that very reason you've stated, trying to find out the options

bigsinky

None of those jap ECUs will run your 20psi of boost (1.4bar) in your uk car. you will need something like polar chip, unichip. Alternatively simtec, ecutec, or one of the numerous others. these will all need mapped for your car. there are others on here who can advise you a bit better than me.

scoobyschef

iTrader: (6)

ecutek/simtek/apexi

personally with your mods i would go for ecutek less expense and result achieved

jim

Journeyman

ok thanks for the info.

Does the fuel cut from the ECU still work if the boost solonoid is bypassed with a Dawes Device?

Splitpin

Yes, unless you fit a fuel cut defender, which isn't a good idea. Assuming good fuel, knock monitoring and an engine in good nick, 1.1 bar or so on a Dawes should be fine. Beyond that, Ecutek is the most cost effective way forward, unless you're planning on mods that will need an aftermarket ECU at some point in the future.

Slick81

iTrader: (1)

Late MY99 is ECU TEK mappable. No need to change anything the ECU
No experience with a Dawes Device but IMO I wouldnt want to risk turning it up too much with your current mods and as you have mentioned keep the boost limited. I know in your 1st post you have asked what can be done without a remap. However, with the current mods etc remap is the safer and more cost effective way forward as mentioned by scoobyschef. If you can hold out until then, along with your cars engine then the end result will be well worth it

And also no need for the Knocklink once its been mapped as your car should be mapped safely anyway so only lights you need to be keeping an eye on are the traffic lights. But by all means get one if you really want it

Journeyman

Thanks for the info guys, so what you are saying is that my ECU (sept '99) will be ECUTEK mappable?. Is there a serial number on the ECU that I can check against to definately confirm this?

just123

iTrader: (1)

I also have an MY99 with PPP ecu and looked into getting a standard one so i can map it and sell the ppp one, MY99 ecu can be mapped no probs and changed over with no immobiliser issues

Splitpin

Yes.

There's no need to check the individual type number of the ECU, because every one fitted to the 99MY and 00MY cars is Ecutek programmable. For the record though, there were three distinct code variations used on the UK spec cars. You will either have an AE800 (brown label, don't remember the two letter code), AE801 (black label, E3) or AE802 (green label, Y7).

Journeyman

@Splitpin
Are there any differences between the three distinct code variations or were they just different production line runs with the same circuits and rom?

@just123
I take it the MY99 with PPP ecu is not Ecutek programmable then?. Does it not offer as good a performance gain over an ECUTEK map?

StiX

iTrader: (4)

I thought that the MY99 PPP ECU could be remapped? Perhaps I am wrong then.

However PPP produces 240bhp I think.

Ecutek of your standard MY99/00 ECU will give 270-280bhp after decatting etc.

My MY00 produced 273/273 with Ecutek with a Ninja Sports Cat and Magnex centre&backbox.

It now produces 325/320 with the above plus turbo swap to VF35 and an uprated fuel pump.

DIPSY

EcuTek Products .Have a look on the ecutek website and it gives info what the differences are between the ae800,ae801,ae802 .I would of posted the linky but ecutek website has changed since i last looked on there .You should up grade your fuel pump aswell

Splitpin

The physical design of the ECU PCB is the same no matter which you have, and, as such, you can turn any 99/00 ECU into any of the others (STi included) simply by reprogramming it.

There are differences between the UK versions - although you'd be better off asking someone like Bob Rawle, Pat or JGM about some of the details. From memory, the 800 runs a completely different firmware codebase to the other two. However, the mapping on the 800 and 801 is all but identical. The 802 runs a richer main fuel map and has a much more relaxed boost control profile. The net effect of this is that, as standard, an 802 equipped car is (and feels) slightly less powerful than the same car with one of the other two.

However, the flipside of the richer fuel map is that an 802 would give a bit more headroom to up the boost with an MBC before knock became an issue.

It is - as mentioned above it's the same physical PCB with different mapping. The reason why Just was talking about buying a standard ECU and selling the PPP one is that secondhand PPP units sell for a premium. So, he'd be considerably better off flogging his PPP for £££ and getting the TeK done on a standard one bought for £ than he would getting the one he's currently got reprogrammed.

No. The PPP was a generic map designed to work with a standardised engine/exhaust, and within the terms of the Subaru UK warranty. A custom remap will (should!) deliver better results.