engine stuck on something
#1
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engine stuck on something
turned the car off(wrx 95 wagon) and sat for approx 20 mins
this is the confusing part .went to start the car and it sounded as if the starter solenoid had packed up (it hasn't as its been checked)
tried to bump start and all four wheels locked up and nearly put my dad through the wind screen of his car as he didnt think it would slow him down that much (lol)
so then went about the normal stuff of trying all the earths and checking oils and water .but all are ok
when you put it in 5th gear and push it backwards it will turn the engine over and roll back maybe 4 foot then stop and a clicking noise has come from the passenger side of the engine (not loads of noise )
try and start it and it will turn over for 2 secs and then the same clicking noise again .some thing has broke ?? seized ?? or jammed and i dont know where too look or what too try
no cam belts are snapped i look behind the cover on the left hand side .battery was on charge for a full day
what i cant work out is that i drove it too the spot where all this happened and there was no warning lights etc and it was driving as normal
this is the confusing part .went to start the car and it sounded as if the starter solenoid had packed up (it hasn't as its been checked)
tried to bump start and all four wheels locked up and nearly put my dad through the wind screen of his car as he didnt think it would slow him down that much (lol)
so then went about the normal stuff of trying all the earths and checking oils and water .but all are ok
when you put it in 5th gear and push it backwards it will turn the engine over and roll back maybe 4 foot then stop and a clicking noise has come from the passenger side of the engine (not loads of noise )
try and start it and it will turn over for 2 secs and then the same clicking noise again .some thing has broke ?? seized ?? or jammed and i dont know where too look or what too try
no cam belts are snapped i look behind the cover on the left hand side .battery was on charge for a full day
what i cant work out is that i drove it too the spot where all this happened and there was no warning lights etc and it was driving as normal
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Have you taken the plugs out to see if it will turn over by hand? Also does the car or engine move if you press the clutch in and try to turn the engine or push the car?
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Have heard something similar before. I think it was hydraulic lock on one of the pistons where there was a leaky injector. Wouldn't turn over because liquid doesn't compress.
It's worth taking the plugs out and try turning it over.
It's worth taking the plugs out and try turning it over.
#7
It might be hydro-lock, but from what you've said it doesn't sound like the likeliest explanation, in part because with all the pushing and pulling you've been trying to do, chances are you'd have been able to release any stored pressure by forcing one set of valves to open.
It sounds, unfortunately, more like the timing belt has jumped teeth somewhere and the "clicking" you're hearing is the sound of interference between the piston and valves.
Have a look at the plugs first, but if removing the doesn't result in fuel pouring out of one of the cylinders, your next move should probably be to take off the whole of the timing belt cover. Simply removing the left hand bit doesn't tell you about what's happened elsewhere around its circumference.
It sounds, unfortunately, more like the timing belt has jumped teeth somewhere and the "clicking" you're hearing is the sound of interference between the piston and valves.
Have a look at the plugs first, but if removing the doesn't result in fuel pouring out of one of the cylinders, your next move should probably be to take off the whole of the timing belt cover. Simply removing the left hand bit doesn't tell you about what's happened elsewhere around its circumference.
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Definately seized, whether hydro locked or timing belt.
Starter motor would probably be taking over 350amps from the battery to try and turn over the engine. so i wouldn't keep on trying it if i were you.
Like the others say, remove the plugs, which obviously isn't an easy task on the EJ's. Then try to crank her over. If she doesn't crank then pop off the timing belt cover and make sure she hasn't slipped a tooth or broken when you first came out and turned it over.
Keep us updated
Starter motor would probably be taking over 350amps from the battery to try and turn over the engine. so i wouldn't keep on trying it if i were you.
Like the others say, remove the plugs, which obviously isn't an easy task on the EJ's. Then try to crank her over. If she doesn't crank then pop off the timing belt cover and make sure she hasn't slipped a tooth or broken when you first came out and turned it over.
Keep us updated
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id cheak time belt for broken teeth first before taking plugs out and movin anything just incase so your not making it easier to turn and do more damage IF the belt has gone/slipped and timing may be out, but it dose sound as if liquid is in a cylinder
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i got home from work too late today to try the spark plugs .(bloody raining too)
but i rember seeing it some where else that said if the injector has let by and hydrolock .i will need to change the oil also ??
and a fool proof guide on making sure the cam belt markings are all correct would be really helpful .
cheers guys will defo keep ya update as i do shift work and will be able to try all what has been said tomorrow
but i rember seeing it some where else that said if the injector has let by and hydrolock .i will need to change the oil also ??
and a fool proof guide on making sure the cam belt markings are all correct would be really helpful .
cheers guys will defo keep ya update as i do shift work and will be able to try all what has been said tomorrow
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ok all the spark plugs are out and no fuel .
all cam markings are as above picture.
engine can crank over half a turn from where it gets stuck if pushed backwards and thats it .so no farther forwards .
all four cam wheels turn the same amount when trying to rock it backwards
the clicking sound is as if something is being caught and wedging against some thing metal ?? could this be a piston ring maybe .the sound is coming from maybe the back right hand side of the engine.i have also noticed a inspection hole on top of the gearbox could some thing fall in and lock the engine on the flywheel ??
running out of ideas here
all cam markings are as above picture.
engine can crank over half a turn from where it gets stuck if pushed backwards and thats it .so no farther forwards .
all four cam wheels turn the same amount when trying to rock it backwards
the clicking sound is as if something is being caught and wedging against some thing metal ?? could this be a piston ring maybe .the sound is coming from maybe the back right hand side of the engine.i have also noticed a inspection hole on top of the gearbox could some thing fall in and lock the engine on the flywheel ??
running out of ideas here
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It's highly unlikely that something will be jamming the flywheel but stranger things have happened.
What's the oil level like, you didn't run it dry at all?
Hate to say it, but i'd say the most likely explanation is going to be a dropped valve or something similar
What's the oil level like, you didn't run it dry at all?
Hate to say it, but i'd say the most likely explanation is going to be a dropped valve or something similar
#15
Can't disagree with the Stig unfortunately. Initial suspicion was valve-piston interference and what you've said now reinforces the feeling.
It's unlikely to be a ring simply because the only way a ring could come loose like that would be if a piston had broken up - and if that's happened it's more likely to be bits of that causing the problems.
It's unlikely to be a ring simply because the only way a ring could come loose like that would be if a piston had broken up - and if that's happened it's more likely to be bits of that causing the problems.
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right have took the starter motor back out and removed the intercooler .
the clicking sound i can now get closer too and its defo coming from the back middle of the engine ,gearbox area .
it sounds like as the flywheel turns some thing drops over and then it locks up.
i did speak with a localish scooby specialist and there two thoughts where a locked bottom end or a gearbox problem .
i do really think some thing is locking the flywheel up.so my next plan is too try and undo the gearbox from the engine and maybe prise them apart a little and see if i can see anything flopping about ??
so my next question is ---- will this be possible with out a complete removal of the engine or gearbox
the clicking sound i can now get closer too and its defo coming from the back middle of the engine ,gearbox area .
it sounds like as the flywheel turns some thing drops over and then it locks up.
i did speak with a localish scooby specialist and there two thoughts where a locked bottom end or a gearbox problem .
i do really think some thing is locking the flywheel up.so my next plan is too try and undo the gearbox from the engine and maybe prise them apart a little and see if i can see anything flopping about ??
so my next question is ---- will this be possible with out a complete removal of the engine or gearbox
Last edited by madmooro; 03 September 2009 at 02:01 PM.
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there is an inspection plate at thebottom of engine covers the fly wheel two bolts hold it on but migh have to jack the engine up a bit so remove twn engine mount bolts may be worth a try, id be inclined to get a small piece of say welding rod to use as a sort of dipstick and maybe gently put down the spark plug hole and gently turn engine back n forth and see if all the pistons go up and down you will know then that all rods are connected i.e not thrown a cap or snapped etc. silly but have you depressed clutch wen starting as this would rule gearbox
p.s i had engine out on a hoist and everything removed and still spent best part of 2 hours to pri the box off the engine wat a git of a job when the dowels are rusted in, and the box was removed 1 year before so i thought it was going to be easy second time how wrong i was
p.s i had engine out on a hoist and everything removed and still spent best part of 2 hours to pri the box off the engine wat a git of a job when the dowels are rusted in, and the box was removed 1 year before so i thought it was going to be easy second time how wrong i was
Last edited by andyxros; 03 September 2009 at 02:49 PM.
#18
Starter motor not damaged then? So not a bit of starter fallen in the bell housing/flywheel? Very odd, but an open inspection hole doesn't sound right so possible something got in there.
I've changed the clutch on mine and you can get the 6 inches you need by removing the propshaft, taking off the front drive shafts(just push out the locating pins and pull off the gearbox) and undoing gearbox mounts and sliding the gearbox backwards. This should give you enough room to see whats going on. You might need to remove the clutch slave cylinder, and a cover on the side of the gearbox to pull the release lever shaft out so the gearbox can slide back far enough - the lever will most likely be attached to the clutch release bearing so its pivoting shaft has to be removed to get the box off far enough.
Hope that makes more sense when you look at it...
I've changed the clutch on mine and you can get the 6 inches you need by removing the propshaft, taking off the front drive shafts(just push out the locating pins and pull off the gearbox) and undoing gearbox mounts and sliding the gearbox backwards. This should give you enough room to see whats going on. You might need to remove the clutch slave cylinder, and a cover on the side of the gearbox to pull the release lever shaft out so the gearbox can slide back far enough - the lever will most likely be attached to the clutch release bearing so its pivoting shaft has to be removed to get the box off far enough.
Hope that makes more sense when you look at it...
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there is an inspection plate at thebottom of engine covers the fly wheel two bolts hold it on but migh have to jack the engine up a bit so remove twn engine mount bolts may be worth a try, id be inclined to get a small piece of say welding rod to use as a sort of dipstick and maybe gently put down the spark plug hole and gently turn engine back n forth and see if all the pistons go up and down you will know then that all rods are connected i.e not thrown a cap or snapped etc. silly but have you depressed clutch wen starting as this would rule gearbox
p.s i had engine out on a hoist and everything removed and still spent best part of 2 hours to pri the box off the engine wat a git of a job when the dowels are rusted in, and the box was removed 1 year before so i thought it was going to be easy second time how wrong i was
p.s i had engine out on a hoist and everything removed and still spent best part of 2 hours to pri the box off the engine wat a git of a job when the dowels are rusted in, and the box was removed 1 year before so i thought it was going to be easy second time how wrong i was
Starter motor not damaged then? So not a bit of starter fallen in the bell housing/flywheel? Very odd, but an open inspection hole doesn't sound right so possible something got in there.
I've changed the clutch on mine and you can get the 6 inches you need by removing the propshaft, taking off the front drive shafts(just push out the locating pins and pull off the gearbox) and undoing gearbox mounts and sliding the gearbox backwards. This should give you enough room to see whats going on. You might need to remove the clutch slave cylinder, and a cover on the side of the gearbox to pull the release lever shaft out so the gearbox can slide back far enough - the lever will most likely be attached to the clutch release bearing so its pivoting shaft has to be removed to get the box off far enough.
Hope that makes more sense when you look at it...
I've changed the clutch on mine and you can get the 6 inches you need by removing the propshaft, taking off the front drive shafts(just push out the locating pins and pull off the gearbox) and undoing gearbox mounts and sliding the gearbox backwards. This should give you enough room to see whats going on. You might need to remove the clutch slave cylinder, and a cover on the side of the gearbox to pull the release lever shaft out so the gearbox can slide back far enough - the lever will most likely be attached to the clutch release bearing so its pivoting shaft has to be removed to get the box off far enough.
Hope that makes more sense when you look at it...
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[QUOTE=tjmatt;8919418](just push out the locating pins and pull off the gearbox)
o yeah wish i kenw to push them out first, wot an idiot i am il no next time
o yeah wish i kenw to push them out first, wot an idiot i am il no next time
#21
I've got the same exact problem on my 95 RA. It doesn't sound like it's one of those freak occurrences where something fell down in there if two folks are having the same problem. I replaced the starter (which I now know wasn't bad to begin with).
I'll check plugs and timing belt tomorrow. Have you all come up with any other ideas that might be easier than a dropped valve?
I'll check plugs and timing belt tomorrow. Have you all come up with any other ideas that might be easier than a dropped valve?
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nope iam gana get my *** in gear and push the engine up from its mounts and see if i can get at the bottom plate on the gearbox.there is the front cross member covering it.i gana be carefull when i do this as i can only see the sump as a jacking point for the engine .iam doing this all from the bottom so any better ideas ?? throw em at me .
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