Any 1 use MORRIS Oils in their Scoob??
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Any 1 use MORRIS Oils in their Scoob??
I've got a '99 UK Turbo and I'm going to service it myself in the near future. Does anyone use MORRIS oils for engine/box/diff?? If so what specs do you use. I know someone who works for MORRIS, and going to ask there advice, but thought I'd ask on here first and cross reference information! Also does everyone use OEM oil/fuel filters? or are some of the japenese made 'blueprint items' as good?
Proby
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#3
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Dunno about Morris, but I used Morrisons mineral oil for running in my engine LOL - £6 for 5 litres! On a more serious note though, use a genuine oil filter.
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For engine oil viscosity, use:-
10W-40
10W-50
15W-40
15W-50
BTW, the gearbox (incorporating the front/centre diffs) and the rear diff, both use 75W-90 oil. The one that most specialists advocate is Castrol Syntrac 75W-90.
10W-40
10W-50
15W-40
15W-50
BTW, the gearbox (incorporating the front/centre diffs) and the rear diff, both use 75W-90 oil. The one that most specialists advocate is Castrol Syntrac 75W-90.
Last edited by joz8968; 04 April 2009 at 06:32 PM.
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Oilman says that 60 hot viscosity weight is too thick for modern engines - check out his "16 questions on oil" thread in the Archive Topics forum - it explains the science behind it, etc.
Also, he says that 5W cold visc. is even better than 10W or 15W. Because it's thinner, it obviously flows quicker/more easily, on the crucial cold start-up phase.
So,
5W-40
5W-50
10W-40
10W-50
15W-40
15W-50
I'd personally opt for any of the ones in bold - prob best to use 10W-50 at this time of year.
Also, he says that 5W cold visc. is even better than 10W or 15W. Because it's thinner, it obviously flows quicker/more easily, on the crucial cold start-up phase.
So,
5W-40
5W-50
10W-40
10W-50
15W-40
15W-50
I'd personally opt for any of the ones in bold - prob best to use 10W-50 at this time of year.
Last edited by joz8968; 06 April 2009 at 01:29 PM.
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Thanks for the input guys, was going to use 10W-40.
Question 2!
Am I really better off with FULLY synthetic or PART synthetic? I've heard different stories.
Proby
Question 2!
Am I really better off with FULLY synthetic or PART synthetic? I've heard different stories.
Proby
Last edited by Proby521; 06 April 2009 at 03:41 PM.
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Oilman says that 60 hot viscosity weight is too thick for modern engines - check out his "16 questions on oil" thread in the Archive Topics forum - it explains the science behind it, etc.
Also, he says that 5W cold visc. is even better than 10W or 15W. Because it's thinner, it obviously flows quicker/more easily, on the crucial cold start-up phase.
So,
5W-40
5W-50
10W-40
10W-50
15W-40
15W-50
I'd personally opt for any of the ones in bold - prob best to use 10W-50 at this time of year.
Also, he says that 5W cold visc. is even better than 10W or 15W. Because it's thinner, it obviously flows quicker/more easily, on the crucial cold start-up phase.
So,
5W-40
5W-50
10W-40
10W-50
15W-40
15W-50
I'd personally opt for any of the ones in bold - prob best to use 10W-50 at this time of year.
ill just get some motul 300v or silkolene pro s in 10w 50 then
id personally only go fully synthetic ester based oil
edit: the oils id get
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1145-sil...e-engines.aspx
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-865-motu...cing-cars.aspx
Last edited by eggy790; 06 April 2009 at 03:51 PM.
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second link sounds like proper track race oil for big bhp cars.. shame they dont do it in 10w 50 over 40?
suppose 40 will be fine anyway
btw. what does this mean in the motul race oil? "Engine producing medium fuel dilution in the oil."
suppose 40 will be fine anyway
btw. what does this mean in the motul race oil? "Engine producing medium fuel dilution in the oil."
Last edited by eggy790; 06 April 2009 at 04:08 PM.
#11
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Really chronic cases and it can cause undesirable bore wash.
But what measurement "medium" is meant to convey, who knows...
Last edited by joz8968; 06 April 2009 at 05:10 PM.
#12
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Fully will stay in grade for longer i.e. it's molecular structure is more resiliant to the literal mashing it recieives by the engine's reciprocating parts... So it protects the engine more effectively over any given time frame, than a semi.
Or to put it another way, you could go longer on oil/filter changes on a fully compared to a semi...
Last edited by joz8968; 06 April 2009 at 05:19 PM.
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