Changing MAF
How often should i replace my maf on my classic my00? have been told it can lead to engine damage if it goes wrong,should i get it done as i have no paper work which says it has been done,have done 68500.
You'll only get the warning light if it fails completely and the ECU spots it. It won't give you any indication if it's starting to go.
You should still "feel" somthing isn't quite right though. I changed mine at 5.5yrs and around 75K. The car was pulsing badly on acceleration and generally not performing very well. Revs would sometimes bounce around a little.
If the car is running as per usual, then I wouldn't worry too much.
You should still "feel" somthing isn't quite right though. I changed mine at 5.5yrs and around 75K. The car was pulsing badly on acceleration and generally not performing very well. Revs would sometimes bounce around a little.
If the car is running as per usual, then I wouldn't worry too much.
Originally Posted by ozzy
You'll only get the warning light if it fails completely and the ECU spots it. It won't give you any indication if it's starting to go.
You should still "feel" somthing isn't quite right though. I changed mine at 5.5yrs and around 75K. The car was pulsing badly on acceleration and generally not performing very well. Revs would sometimes bounce around a little.
If the car is running as per usual, then I wouldn't worry too much.
You should still "feel" somthing isn't quite right though. I changed mine at 5.5yrs and around 75K. The car was pulsing badly on acceleration and generally not performing very well. Revs would sometimes bounce around a little.
If the car is running as per usual, then I wouldn't worry too much.
Originally Posted by catmeat
Mines done 68500 and ticks over fine and seems to run fine so i should leave it?whats worst case if it goes?

If the MAF completely fails then the engine will cut out and may not restart until disconnected. This has happened to me before, bit scary when your engine cuts out and you lose all power to brakes, steering

Only way to drive like this was to disconnect the plug to the MAF and drive in limp home mode
Originally Posted by richiewong
Car will run lean and possibly det without you knowing
If the MAF completely fails then the engine will cut out and may not restart until disconnected. This has happened to me before, bit scary when your engine cuts out and you lose all power to brakes, steering
Only way to drive like this was to disconnect the plug to the MAF and drive in limp home mode

If the MAF completely fails then the engine will cut out and may not restart until disconnected. This has happened to me before, bit scary when your engine cuts out and you lose all power to brakes, steering

Only way to drive like this was to disconnect the plug to the MAF and drive in limp home mode

Originally Posted by catmeat
Think i am gonna change it,just in case
Dont change it just for the sake of it, mine cost me £79.50 from subaru.
Hope this helps
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Mine went on my MY00 at around 72,000 miles. The symptoms were when I pulled up at lights etc, the idle would fluctuate between 800 and 1500 revs all by itself
I believe that it doesn't always give these symptoms though.
Cost about £65 from Subaru for a new one and takes about 2 minutes to change...
I believe that it doesn't always give these symptoms though.Cost about £65 from Subaru for a new one and takes about 2 minutes to change...
My car is an MY00 classic and the MAF was replaced about a year ago.
The symptoms were that the car idled at about 1500 rpm after a long motorway runs. I have covered around 7000 miles since and the idle has again started to become unstable, sometimes idling at around 1200 rpm and this time it stutters a little when cold. There is no sign of any engine warning light.
I have been told that aftermarket induction kits can contribute to failures but I am running the standard induction system however I do have a VTA dump valve fitted.
Is there any specific cause for the failure MAF sensors or any reason mine would appear to have failed so soon?
The symptoms were that the car idled at about 1500 rpm after a long motorway runs. I have covered around 7000 miles since and the idle has again started to become unstable, sometimes idling at around 1200 rpm and this time it stutters a little when cold. There is no sign of any engine warning light.
I have been told that aftermarket induction kits can contribute to failures but I am running the standard induction system however I do have a VTA dump valve fitted.
Is there any specific cause for the failure MAF sensors or any reason mine would appear to have failed so soon?
Touch wood at the moment i have no reason to think my maf is faulty just wanted to ask what u all thought was best? have heard induction kits can play them up so will prob go for a sti panel,not sure if a dv would cause maf failure,used to have a bailey on my bugeye my01 never had any probs.
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