alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Got my Scoob remapped a couple of years back, it's now giving me some minor probs.

Sometimes when it starts, it appears to be running on only 3 cylinders, struggling for about 2-3 minutes before running normally.

When stone cold, it HATES me to touch the throttle, I have to be so feather footed to avoid stalling it.

Just lately, it's started allowing the idling speed to drop, then come back, then drop etc. When approaching a junction and stopping, often the idling speed has dropped so far that putting on more revs to pull away, stalls it.

Anyone recognise these problems, or ought I to contact BRD for an appointment?

Alcazar

TonyFlow

Sounds like a MAF failure to me - get it changed (if not - it could be Lambda, but I would expect MAF) - Could even be both!

Graz

Maybe it is running on three cylinders (when cold), if so it may not be the MAF or lambda.

Check coilpacks, leads, plugs etc. Not sure if it's safe to do this on a Scooby but the usual thing to do it unplug each of the HT leads in turn and see it it gets any rougher. If you unplug one of them and it doesn't then thats probably the cylinder that isn't firing.

However consult with an expert, i.e. not me , before trying this. Don't know how distributerless ignition systems will react, don't want to break something by doing so.

stevem2k

6000 posts , c'mon you must have read a "my maf's dead" thread by now and recognise the symptoms ......

7 Foot

What made you come to the conclusion it is map related? Seems a strange assumption after 2 years.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Don't think it's MAF related, since the LINK doesn't use the MAF sensor at all.


Map related? Dunno really, just seems electronic/electrical. I just assumed the ecu, whichever one, would be in charge and would keep the idle speed up, make it driveable when cold etc etc.

Assuming it's NOT map related, who would I take it to, with the LINK in place?

Alcazar

JohnD

iTrader: (5)

Have you kept the original board? If so, swap it over and try it?
I used to have to do that at MOT time with the Link on my 99my.
I assume you have the later chip in the Link?
JohnD

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Can I do that? What about the 3-port solenoid also fitted at the same time? Do I need to change that too?

Alcazar

TonyFlow

Ignore me then. Made the assumption that you had a ECUtek Remap!

Probably best to phone Bob/Branko and discuss

Fangoria

iTrader: (1)

I'm no expert but sounds like coil pack problems to me

I didnt catch the age of your car - but if its over 7 years old then I'd say if they have not been changed then this is the most likely

Certainly wont be the map - nothing would cause it to be fine one day and not the next - if you see what I mean (i.e. would not be an ECU failure) but some component............

As others have said not a MAF either as you dont use it

JohnD

iTrader: (5)

As you've got the 3-port controller as part of the conversion I assume it's a late classic?
When I re-fitted the original board I left the 3 port solenoid in place as I only drove the car to the MOT station and back before re-fitting the Link. It started and ran perfectly well although I used very little boost in that period. (starting and idling was actually better!)
JohnD

Chan HT

Alcazar,
Try increase clamp number by 1-2 units and see if this helps.I am assuming you have that Link hand held thingy.

Chan HT