Geddon

I know this sounds a bit stupid but I thought I'd check before ripping my car apart
Can see the sump plug with wire through it presumably to stop it falling out if it comes loose. Couldn't see the filter though. Do you have to remove the big plastic panel under the engine and if so how? Any clues as to where the filter is as well?
Car is MY00 uk turbo.

Thx in advance

jjones

filter is underneath. offside front corner. you may be able to do the change with the splash guard on but it would be very fiddly. the splash guard is only held on with some small bolts (around 6 or 7 of them).

Belmondo

Wire through the sump plug is not standard. Me thinks the previous owner has done the odd track day here and there. Make sure the new filter is filled to the top before you refit it (this may require several toppings up as the element soaks up the oil)

minor_threat

The splash guard has 6 bolts (3 front, 3 back), a screw in either side and two plastic clips at the back. It's easy to get off, use the screws in the side to fit it back on as it's easier to line it up this way. Once this is removed you'll be able to see the filter and sump plug.

Eprom

You need to get the undertray off the car, on a My99 which should be the same as yours. First run engine to get it warm. Then there are 2 bolts at the front of the tray, and two at the rear, there are also two smaller self-tapping screws at either side under the wheel arch. The rear of the under tray has two plastic clips, that hold the front of the gearbox tray in place, these need removing also.
Once tray is off ,you will need a large collection container for the old oil, remove filler cap to allow air in, and then remove the sump plug, the filter is located under the car next to the sump, when you unscrew this oil goes all over the place that’s why you need a large collection container.
Whilst the oil is draining pre-fill the new oil filter with oil, this must be done until you can no longer get any more oil into it. Takes about 15 mins to soak it all up.
When oil has finished draining re-fit sump plug with a new washer and screw into sump.
Smear a light film of new oil, around the rubber seal on the new filter and re-fit.
Tighten by hand.

Refill engine to correct level on dipstick and re-fit oil filler cap.

Warning before you start the engine disconnect the crank sensor, this is located under the alternator pulley, right at the front of the engine, think it has a brown plug on it, pull the plug off. This will stop the engine from firing up and injecting fuel.

Turn engine over for about 20 seconds to prime the oil pump or until the engine oil light goes out on the dash, re-connect the crank sensor and start engine, let engine warm up, and then switch off engine. Check for any leaks and re-fit undertray.
Top-up oil if required after left standing for 5 mins.

Edited to say the wire in the sump plug may have been for an oil temp sensor in the past.

jasonius

iTrader: (1)

Anyone got a pic of crank sensor?

Eprom- good advice!

911

Jason, only point I would add to the excellent guide by Eprom is not to over-fill the engine after it has rested for 5 mins.
I leave mine for a 'car wash' then check the level, ie wash/leather the car after the change (about 45 mins) and check the level on a level drive of course!

911

richiewong

http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=226638

jasonius

iTrader: (1)

Very interesting read(s)!

Going off thread a little, what is it that makes cyl #3 more subject to failiour (compared to #4)?

I understand that it get's less cool air but so does #4 (if that's the other rear cyl?). Also Isn't it the same for any londitudally mounted engine (v or stright)?

Could it be that it's closer to turbo heat?

Jason

jjones

yes