scoobyecu
#1
ok.. so a search of scoobyecu has answered most of my questions about it.
however, i have a few that havent been answered...
- do you need a knocklink if you're going to run a scoobyecu? or are most people reliant on the ecu to sense knock?
- should i get anything else (other sensors etc) other than a boost gauge before fitting a scoobyecu?
- is the mod reversable - i.e. can i put it back to standard before selling? or is my only option to get 2 ecus (a standard one and a scoobyecu-enabled one)?
- i am in hampshire... can anyone recommend one of the scoobyecu guys who can install it for me (i am useless at soldering and have been banned from cutting wires!).. i dont mind travelling a little for them to do the install.
however, i have a few that havent been answered...
- do you need a knocklink if you're going to run a scoobyecu? or are most people reliant on the ecu to sense knock?
- should i get anything else (other sensors etc) other than a boost gauge before fitting a scoobyecu?
- is the mod reversable - i.e. can i put it back to standard before selling? or is my only option to get 2 ecus (a standard one and a scoobyecu-enabled one)?
- i am in hampshire... can anyone recommend one of the scoobyecu guys who can install it for me (i am useless at soldering and have been banned from cutting wires!).. i dont mind travelling a little for them to do the install.
#2
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I don't think the Knocklink is necessary (I haven't got one) but is better in terms of all round safety. AFAIK- the ECU is mapped for 97/98 RON fuel so is probably safer than driving round in a standard Jap import in terms of knock, after all lots of people forget the octane booster!
I haven't fitted a boost gauge either, although again I think one is recommended. I just run it on 98 RON fuel all the time and hope for the best!
As far as it being reversible- I think it is just a case of re-connecting the resistor J1 that is cut when installing the upgrade.
You can fit it yourself if you have a UK car, if you have a Jap car then I think you'll need the adaptor as I'm sure you know.
I'm afraid I'm not sure where the scooby ecu boys are located- I got mine secondhand. Someone here will tell you, or just drop them an email- they seem friendly enough.
I haven't fitted a boost gauge either, although again I think one is recommended. I just run it on 98 RON fuel all the time and hope for the best!
As far as it being reversible- I think it is just a case of re-connecting the resistor J1 that is cut when installing the upgrade.
You can fit it yourself if you have a UK car, if you have a Jap car then I think you'll need the adaptor as I'm sure you know.
I'm afraid I'm not sure where the scooby ecu boys are located- I got mine secondhand. Someone here will tell you, or just drop them an email- they seem friendly enough.
#3
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The mod is easily reversable... Just unplug the chip and resolder the J1 link. Easy!!
The older WRX cars (MY93 to MY95)will need a socket soldering into the ECU, but the later (late MY95 and MY96) should already have it - as should all UK cars to MY96.
NACRO is correct as far as the gauges are concerned. I'm quite conservative, (with a small c ) and would recomend the boost gauge and knocklink for safety. IMHO, the ECU isn't that clever at knock correction - with or without a scoobyecu!!
All of the ScoobyECU people are very good, so any would be able to do this easily. Not sure who the closest to you would be - probably Scott T or Pavlo? If you're in South Hants, I can fit it for you if you want. I've played with my ECU a bit
The older WRX cars (MY93 to MY95)will need a socket soldering into the ECU, but the later (late MY95 and MY96) should already have it - as should all UK cars to MY96.
NACRO is correct as far as the gauges are concerned. I'm quite conservative, (with a small c ) and would recomend the boost gauge and knocklink for safety. IMHO, the ECU isn't that clever at knock correction - with or without a scoobyecu!!
All of the ScoobyECU people are very good, so any would be able to do this easily. Not sure who the closest to you would be - probably Scott T or Pavlo? If you're in South Hants, I can fit it for you if you want. I've played with my ECU a bit
#7
I would highly recommend a knocklink as it has probably saved my engine twice now first was when my fuel pump started to fail and the mixture went very lean. My knocklink lit up while I was booting it up hill but I backed off straight away and two days later my fuel pump died. Second time was after a re-map and un-beknown to the mapper my ecu had it's knock correction map in a different place to normal and it lit up quite a bit in every gear. If I hadn't fitted a knocklink I would never have known about the above problems ( it seemed to run ok) and could have destroyed my engine so I think you'd be mad NOT to have one. Best £130 I've ever spent
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#8
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I agree it would be wise to have a knocklink- but it isn't a pre-requisite for upgrade with a scooby ECU.
I still haven't got one, don't plan to get one, I'll let you know if it blows up!
I still haven't got one, don't plan to get one, I'll let you know if it blows up!
#10
I know the knock correction is sorted as my car is running like a dream now, I was just saying that without the knocklink I could have had a det issue on both occations above and not known about it as the car drove fine and no doubt I would have kept my foot down for much longer. I feel it's a small price to pay for the re-assurance. You may run for years without a problem, but I know it has possibly saved my engine twice now so I'm VERY glad I have one fitted. I did modify it so the led's are around my boost gauge in the a-pillar though as the standard box looks pants
As for the scoobyecu, just get it, it totally transformed my 93wrx. Boost seems to come on much earlier with much less lag and mine is a lot better behaved around town too, much less stop/go than before
As for the scoobyecu, just get it, it totally transformed my 93wrx. Boost seems to come on much earlier with much less lag and mine is a lot better behaved around town too, much less stop/go than before
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