How do i increase fuel pressure on my FSE regulator?
#1
This sort of follows on from my thread on what fuel pressure i should be running.
I have an uprated fuel pump and FSE regulator. The regulator has a gauge to measure fuel pressure.
I didnt fit these myself but should have asked how adjustment is made.
I'm currently running 2 bar of fuel pressure on idle and want to increase it to 3 bar. What do i turn clockwise or anti clockwise to do this and do i switch the engine off?
Excuse the dimness of my situation
I have an uprated fuel pump and FSE regulator. The regulator has a gauge to measure fuel pressure.
I didnt fit these myself but should have asked how adjustment is made.
I'm currently running 2 bar of fuel pressure on idle and want to increase it to 3 bar. What do i turn clockwise or anti clockwise to do this and do i switch the engine off?
Excuse the dimness of my situation
#3
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Er, well i would just alter the adjuster inwards, ie decreasing the hole that the fuel goes through, thus increasing the pressure. Obviously done at idle, then you will be able to tell from your gauge which way you are sending the pressure when you adjust it.
HTH
Steven
HTH
Steven
#5
done a bit of research and it seems that it is the lock nut that gets adjusted?! The same thread was saying that there have been circumstances where the locknut had loostened off. This is very interesting as i know that two weeks ago the fuel pressure was well above 2.5bar - maybe the lock nut has loosened itself somehow
#6
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The domed locknut hides the adjustor. Flat head screwdriver, turn clockwise to increase pressure. Dont go too far though, as a little turn, does increase a lot. And always adjust pressure, with the vacuum pipe NOT connected to the regulator.
#7
The plot thickens - ive just noticed a trail of what looks like fuel under the car on the wet stones. This might not be anything to do with the regulator. I think i might have a fuel leek somewhere.
Better get it checked tomorrow before i do any adjusting
thanks guys
Better get it checked tomorrow before i do any adjusting
thanks guys
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#8
I think you better not drive your car, if it is leaking fuel. You do not want the fuel make contact with your exhaust or header.
Check it your self, follow the fuel line and you will see/feel the leaking spot.
Check it your self, follow the fuel line and you will see/feel the leaking spot.
#9
Done some more looking around and noticed that the small pipe that goes into my K and N induction kit filter was hanging out. Put it back in and now got the pressure on idle up to 2.25bar - i'm getting there - lol.
The expected fuel leak might be oil come to think of it
The expected fuel leak might be oil come to think of it
#11
WRT setting the pressure...
I would suggest setting the fuel pressure referenced to atmospheric pressure rather than the manifold vacuum at idle. To do this, you would disconnect the manifold pressure reference hose at one end and block the manifold port side, leaving the fpr side open to atmospheric... then idle the car and set the desired fuel pressure (e.g. 3bar at atmospheric)... then refit the hose to the manifold (be careful to secure the hose properly, as you dont want it popping off whilst you are driving).
I would suggest setting the fuel pressure referenced to atmospheric pressure rather than the manifold vacuum at idle. To do this, you would disconnect the manifold pressure reference hose at one end and block the manifold port side, leaving the fpr side open to atmospheric... then idle the car and set the desired fuel pressure (e.g. 3bar at atmospheric)... then refit the hose to the manifold (be careful to secure the hose properly, as you dont want it popping off whilst you are driving).
#13
Is there any reason why i cant set the fuel pressure to what i want when the car is running at idle?
For example at the moment, when i look at the pressure gauge on the FSE regulator when the car is idling it reads 2.25 bar.
My thoughts are that all i need to do is remove the lock nut, get a screw driver ready, start the car and then turn the nut watching the pressure gauge until it reaches the desired point.
"I would suggest setting the fuel pressure referenced to atmospheric pressure rather than the manifold vacuum at idle."
Does this mean that the reading that i have on my gauge of 2.25bar is actually a higher true reading?
For example at the moment, when i look at the pressure gauge on the FSE regulator when the car is idling it reads 2.25 bar.
My thoughts are that all i need to do is remove the lock nut, get a screw driver ready, start the car and then turn the nut watching the pressure gauge until it reaches the desired point.
"I would suggest setting the fuel pressure referenced to atmospheric pressure rather than the manifold vacuum at idle."
Does this mean that the reading that i have on my gauge of 2.25bar is actually a higher true reading?
#14
Is there any reason why i cant set the fuel pressure to what i want when the car is running at idle?
If that makes sence
AFAIK you want 3.2 bar on idle
Scoty
#15
do you mean make the adjustments when the car is off and test it by starting the car up?
This could take a while as ive heard you have to make very fine adjustments for big change
thanks, i'll give it a go
This could take a while as ive heard you have to make very fine adjustments for big change
thanks, i'll give it a go
#17
aaaaarrrrrgggghhh,
engine switched off, took the lock nut off the regulator to reveal the nut which needs adjusting with a flat head screw driver.
It doesnt turn
The only reason why this could be the case is because there is residual fuel pressure left over in the regulator. So obviously, i need to disconnect one of the hoses that goes into the regulator. Which one? - the small one that runs in by the lock nut? or the other one?
Fuel is obviously going to start p1ss1ng out in vast quantities. Do i let it drain fully? Then once ive made my adjustment, does the fuel pump re-prime the system?
Yes this is an easy task if explained over the phone!!!
engine switched off, took the lock nut off the regulator to reveal the nut which needs adjusting with a flat head screw driver.
It doesnt turn
The only reason why this could be the case is because there is residual fuel pressure left over in the regulator. So obviously, i need to disconnect one of the hoses that goes into the regulator. Which one? - the small one that runs in by the lock nut? or the other one?
Fuel is obviously going to start p1ss1ng out in vast quantities. Do i let it drain fully? Then once ive made my adjustment, does the fuel pump re-prime the system?
Yes this is an easy task if explained over the phone!!!
#18
have you slackened the lock nut that is behind the domed nut too?.
just to add that I adjusted with the engine running(up to operating temp)
[Edited by T-uk - 5/19/2003 10:09:59 PM]
just to add that I adjusted with the engine running(up to operating temp)
[Edited by T-uk - 5/19/2003 10:09:59 PM]
#24
Re Scoty's : "You have to adjust FPR, ignition on,ignition off, adjust FPR, ignition on, ignition off.....to get the desired fuel pressure." Um, nope. you are better off adjusting it whilst the car is running at an idle.
When I suggest adjusting the pressure with ther fpr referenced to atmospheric pressure, I mean to remove the manifold reference line, block the manifold port (this stops unfiltered air entering and the engine "racing"). Then, with the fpr pressure reference port open to the atmosphere, and the manifold port blocked, run the car at idle. Your fuel pressure gauge is now showing your fuel pressure differential relative to atmosheric pressure. When I say 3.2bar fuel pressure, or 4bar fuel pressure, I assume that this is the fuel pressure reading at atmospheric.
Once you have set the pressure, you must refit the manifold reference line and ensure its secured properly at both ends (zip ties are good for this). If you run the car at idle now, you will see how the gauge pressure has dropped because the manifold is running in vacuum, this is because the fpr is referenced to the manifold. If you could were to look at the pressure gauge whilst on boost, you would see (roughly) the pressure your set at atmospheric plus the boost pressure. This pressure deviation is why i suggested you set the pressure referenced to atmospheric.
Bet thats now clear as mud!
When I suggest adjusting the pressure with ther fpr referenced to atmospheric pressure, I mean to remove the manifold reference line, block the manifold port (this stops unfiltered air entering and the engine "racing"). Then, with the fpr pressure reference port open to the atmosphere, and the manifold port blocked, run the car at idle. Your fuel pressure gauge is now showing your fuel pressure differential relative to atmosheric pressure. When I say 3.2bar fuel pressure, or 4bar fuel pressure, I assume that this is the fuel pressure reading at atmospheric.
Once you have set the pressure, you must refit the manifold reference line and ensure its secured properly at both ends (zip ties are good for this). If you run the car at idle now, you will see how the gauge pressure has dropped because the manifold is running in vacuum, this is because the fpr is referenced to the manifold. If you could were to look at the pressure gauge whilst on boost, you would see (roughly) the pressure your set at atmospheric plus the boost pressure. This pressure deviation is why i suggested you set the pressure referenced to atmospheric.
Bet thats now clear as mud!
#25
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I think the reason why Scoty mentioned it the way he did, is because at the time he was trying to set his idle fuel pressure, certain parts of his car weren't fitted, hence he couldn't run the car at idle.
Hope this clears Scoty's head..
Alan
Hope this clears Scoty's head..
Alan
#27
Just remembered the car is now in one piece again, and can be started
Went out just now, disconnected the vacum hose from the FPR and blocked it to stop dirt being sucked in to inlet manifold, started the car, adjusted the FPR to 3.2 bar on idle, stopped the car, re-connected vacum hose to FPR, started car, and FPR shows 2.6 bar on idle
Thanks Alan, Moray
Went out just now, disconnected the vacum hose from the FPR and blocked it to stop dirt being sucked in to inlet manifold, started the car, adjusted the FPR to 3.2 bar on idle, stopped the car, re-connected vacum hose to FPR, started car, and FPR shows 2.6 bar on idle
Thanks Alan, Moray
#29
Done my adjusting and have taken the fuel pressure from 2.25 bar up to 3 bar and there is definate difference. Even the knocklink reduced its activity.
The car feels so much more smoother and "happier" when on full boost. Great feeling
I know that maximum boost is 1.1bar so i should probably have set the pressure gauge at 3.1 bar but i have noticed a very slight flooding effect lower down the revs so i think i'll keep it where it is for the moment. Maybe once ive fitted my full decat on thursday, i'll review the situation
Thanks - learnt a lot
The car feels so much more smoother and "happier" when on full boost. Great feeling
I know that maximum boost is 1.1bar so i should probably have set the pressure gauge at 3.1 bar but i have noticed a very slight flooding effect lower down the revs so i think i'll keep it where it is for the moment. Maybe once ive fitted my full decat on thursday, i'll review the situation
Thanks - learnt a lot
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