gene1

Hi,
What would be a save psi to run?
Have just put dawes on my99 with full de-cat,blitz sus and d/valveand standard ecu.
Before the boost gauge was showing just under 15psi and no more through the gears,have just been for a spin and through the mid range up to around 4k it was showing 16psi but went to 16.5 when shortshifted up to 4th and the turbo started coming in with a taller gear.
I dont want to go mad and am now going to turn it back a little as when it crept up the extra .5psi i started to become troubled.
Am hoping to fit knocklink and lambda this weekend to help monitor things.
I never noticed any fuel cut out but due to rush hour traffic never got to right through the gears properly.Also dont really know if there was a major difference or wether the traffic conditions were confusing the issue.
Regards
Gene

LG John

From what I've picked up you can run the dawes at up to fuel cut on an MY99 without any real problems. You'll have an extra degree of safety with the decat which will get rid of hot gasses quicker. I'd happily run a maximum boost of 1.2 (but never more as getting close to cut) on your set up.

John Banks will probably advise better and in more detail. If you hit cut turn it back a little otherwise I personally wouldn't worry

I run 1.25 bar and the only real difference between us is that I have the TEK2.5 remap.

john banks

Fuel cut is 17.6 PSI sustained for a few seconds. You will get more boost in cold weather with a hot turbo in higher gears. Would suggest you aim for 16.5 PSI in top gear as this is close enough to fuel cut. In addition, the knock and lambda link will be useful to make sure the Blitz filter is not reducing the MAF voltages too much which can make it too lean and too advanced (detonation being the risk especially with extra boost).

Attu

Im sure some one will correct me if im wrong but i dont think you will be able to go over the safe limit with the fuel cut.
You probably wont notice the fuel cut untill WOT in 4th and 5th when you will feel the engine cut out.
If it does this just turn the dawes down a little untill it stops.
I get about 16psi with my my98 PPP anymore then the fuel cut comes into play and to be honest i dont realy want to remove the fuel cut.

Andy

gene1

Many thanks both,
Am just going out now to find decent length of dual carriageway and will aim for 16.5psi then in top gear.
Gene

john banks

If you find fuel cut, the fail safe way to stop it is to turn it back until it does not fuel cut (just), THEN turn it back another half turn. Otherwise you risk fuel cut when overtaking, which is not a problem if you know what it is, just go to 3/4 throttle, if you don't it could be quite worrying and you'll think your engine just let go on you.

gene1

f.t.a.o John Banks/anyone else with this knowledge.
Have just been out and the car was showing approx 16.5psi when w.o.t in 4th and 5th.Fantastic i thought just where it should be,only once did it just flit to 17 momentarily and then back to 16.5.
The boost up to 2.5-3.5k seemed much better and the Blitz d/valve was much louder than it used to be at these revs.
AND THEN!
Came up the dual carriageway alls cool,turned round to come back and halfway down felt like id hit a wall.I take it this is the fuel cut off(felt like when i had a cossie and was told that the wastegate was blocked,as when you booted it it used to stutter,but not at this kind of speed)
So i pulled over and wound the Dawes out 1/4 to bring it down.It happened again until now im virtually at15psi not far off the standard boost i had before and its done it again at 15psi.
I think the pluggin of the wastegate tube as the instructions is correct and cant think of anything else.
If i normally want to get the speed up i put my foot down but never to tje floor as i had to with the dawes to sort out the readings,so dont know if it would have done this b4 the Dawes went on.
The sad thing is it felt lovely b4 i had to test it w.o.t,but now feel pi***d off that its mucking about and saddened as my scooby has been messed with and isnt running as it was.
Any helppppppppp
Gene

john banks

Boost gauges can be a bit inaccurate. The general principle is to find fuel cut and then turn it back and keep doing so until it never does it again, and then add a bit more. Possibly your car was overboosting a bit before so the Dawes may not reach much higher on the boost gauge, but it should come in earlier, hold better and longer.

gene1

OK
back to the dual carriageway now and some more grief from the missus(what about my friday night)
The shame of it is,that the extra boost in the beginning with the Deawes made so much difference to revs between 2.5-3.5k,it came in stronger and the needle went round so much quicker,and with the Dawes backed off,doesnt have the same feel.
Would you be able to run like that if if 90% of my driving i shortshift around 4-4.5k anyway and dont hang onto the revs right up to 6-7k,as it seemed to fuel cut when on w.o.t for 3-4 seconds and not like when you drive normally changing up quickly throught the gears.
gene

john banks

No, obviously it was ridiculously overboosting before... the upside of overboost is faster boost rise - the Dawes is a "one dimensional" adjustment to your boost control. A beefier midrange comes with better bottom and top end and vice versa.

gene1

Have been out again and turned it down and soesnt seem to be fuel cutting in wot in 5th.But boost gauge is showing just over 15psi.But it was showing just over 16psi before and then fuel cut was coming in,so all i can attain is the gauge may be reading 1psi out which means im running around 16psi.The low end grung between 2.5 and 3.5k doesnt seem to be as powerfull as it was before when it seemed to be overboosting,and dont seem to b able to determine any difference from without the Dawesunless its too fine to notice without graphs etc.
Gene

john banks

It will feel faster when it overboosts. Also note that fuel cut varies with atmospheric pressure, although there is compressor outlet pressure acting against atmospheric pressure in the Dawes, so maybe it doesn't matter.

LG John

Try not do be too down on you car mate, it has its limits. I could go and turn my dawes up to somewhere above 1.3 bar and have ace fun for 10 minutes. The car would go like stink until it got too hot. It feels great but you just can't keep it like that unfortunatly.....unless you get a bigger turbo/intercooler/etc.

dhorwich

How have you got the dawes fitted...?? have you got it fitted as close to the wastgate as you can..?? this prevents boost spikes... which you could be getting... and triggering overboost... When it does this are you getting a check engine light come on... and have you reset the ECU after you hit fuel cut e.t.c

Dan

gene1

Dan
Have it right next to the wastegate act as the diagram shows but because it was getting dark and raining i couldnt find the nipple off the turbo so it had to have a "t" piece put in the boost gauge piping which is running from the inlet manifold,which was another way they showed to pipe it.
Have had a look for the turbo nipple this morn and can only see a nipple on the turbo but it has a piece of pipe already on it which breaks off from the wastegate pipe that ive already taken off and bunged with a screw,so if i connected the Dawes to this both pipes would be plugged(hope that ive described that properly).
Also dont know how or what to do to do an ecu resey,having enough grief with this and finding the hole to fix the sensor to the block for a knocklink.
It probably is picking up better but booting w.o.t all the time today and last night gets you forgetting how it performed normally in town conditions anyway.
Gene

SHether

I have an MY99 with K&N panel filter + Dawes device set to roughly 16.5 psi. Recently invested in delta dash too which shows 0.5-1.0 degrees of knock correction during build up of boost + at max boost in the mid range. Is this safe? (sorry to hijack post)
DD is certainly a fantastic mod looking at my in gear acceleration times recorded on DDash. If they are anyway accurate I can slightly better the in gear acceleration of the P1 Autocar tested in April 2000!

dhorwich

You can reset the ECU by removing the negative terminal of the battery for a couple of hours....

Dan

gene1

Dan,
Is the re-setting of the ecu a recommended thing to do at intervals or after different mods?Ive done things to the car with exhaust and breathing mods that were standard before,would it be recommended to reset it then?
Oh and will it muck up the alarm or are there any steps to follow on re-attaching earth lead to follow like on Cliffords with valet mode.
Gene

dhorwich

Your ECU will re-learn some of the new parameters e.t.c... you may have problem with your saved radio stations....

Dan