Is this device easy to fit.Im not dumb and fairly competant with engines in as far as rebuilding just not the elec side....Any advice would be nice.Also where to get my ecu remapped and how much.

 

Takes about 3-5 minutes to fit. Locate your turbo nipple and the hose that goes into the waste gate actuator and fit your Dawes there, bypassing the boost solenoid.

As for remapping, I don't think we can do it on our cars unless you buy a new ECU or David's special ECU adapter chip thingy.

 

Thanks for that got one on order now.Dont suppose you could hazaard a gues as to power gains.I've changed dpipe to japinnov decat.japinnov centre sec decat and janspeed S1 bb.I know people get carried away with bhp figures.I have checked into background and found 93 wrx shouldbe about 240 on higher ron rated fuel.i run on optimax and pro boost at mo.Any ideas would be nice.
Didnt realize you couldnt remap oledr scoobs bummer!!!!.Have many more things to go on shopping list yet though..

 

Depends on how high you put the boost up. But I've got to warn you unless you get a fuel cut defender, you won't be able to pass 14-16 psi. I've had my boost whacked up safely at 23 psi with a full decat but I also had forged pistons in it. Lets just say that gearboxes were replaced quite a few times.

 

Katana, you say put the dawes between turbo housing and actuator bypassing solenoid. When I done this the boost kept rising with revs, since going back to the solenoid only the boost holds or tails off as it should (also deffinately goes better with solenoid) So 2moro I'm gonna put the dawes in the pipe between the turbo and boost solenoid and set it to hold 1 bar.

Other people must have had this, or does nobody study their boost gauge like me?

James

 

Then I think you'll get boost spikes like how some people complained. I've done it with two cars now and I haven't encountered this problem.

edit: have you checked your actuator or any leaks on the pipes?

[Edited by Katana - 11/22/2002 7:43:01 PM]

 

Yeah checked and replaced everything (pipes, actuator), still crept up.

Are you sure your boost doesn't climb?

I've got a digital boost gauge and it's a lot easier to watch it go up, dunno if i'd have noticed it in the first place if i'd been using a manual gauge.
James

 

Nah I'm sure it doesn't climb up. Wait you've got a digital boost gauge? Where do you plumb the readings from?

 

I've got a racetech manual gauge too for comparrison, and i,ve changed the pick up point for the boost gauge, I think I'm on the middle of the three pipes at the moment.
Also it doesn't climb now it's back to standard (using solenoid) so it's not the digital gauge

 

As I said before in the previous thread, this is weird. Very weird. Try as you said to hook it after the solenoid pipe. It might be okay then.

 

This might help

simon

 

Thats how i've tried it and thats the problem

 

ok got all that so how do you actually set boost? I was thinking of 1.1 or 1.2 bar is this ok.Also where to get the fuel cut off thingy you mentioned Katana...

 

You can use the Dawes one from JW-racing (its in the banner ad). I use an MRT one that I had from my last car but they both do the same job. The only thing is with these fuel cut defenders, if ever one of your pipings come loose, you'll find that there is nothing to stop the turbo from going to 10 bars and blowing both the engine and the turbo up.

edit: James, do what you originally want to do in the first place. But I think that causes boost spike based on the old threads.

[Edited by Katana - 11/22/2002 11:13:29 PM]