Just had an interesting chat with GGR about induction kits!
#1
Ive just been informed that if you have a car of about MY99 or MY00 you are taking a big chance by putting an induction kit on the car! The sensor that was fitted to these year cars is very fine and sensitive and is not designed for taking increased air flow and with the mesh on the filters not being fine enough on most induction kits these will let very fine particles get through and will damage the sensor eventually! GGR said that this problem is mainly on cars around MY99 and MY00 and the earlier cars are not too bad as for the 2 later years they had a different sensor and unit on them! Its £300 to replace if the sensor should go as you have to buy the whole electronic unit, they said its hit and miss as you maybe get lucky but the law of averages will catch you out eventually! One Question i have to manufacturers is? Why do they keep making these induction kits for these years then if its common knowledge that the sensor is very weak, im new to owning a scoobie and ive just bought a full HKS Racing Suction kit off scooby net and am now debating whether it should go on! They said at GGR that some lads just run the induction kits and are willing to spend the £300 if it goes wrong, i aint won the lottery so £300 every other month could be a bit risky! I wouldn`t mind knowing from any other scoobie owners that have cars around MY99 an MY00 as to what they have done and have they fitted induction kits and have they had many problems of the sensor getting damaged!
#2
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The sensor is £75 if you buy just the sensor and not the whole assembly. K&N seem to be OK. I am forced to because of a FMIC otherwise I would not bother. Many believe it may be due to vibration as well as poor filtration. Another possibility is that your engine can go lean and detonate if the sensor does a slow failure.
Some reckon that HKS, Blitz and Pipercross inductions kits may be associated with a higher failure rate of the MY99/00 MAF sensors - others disagree. Some fail on standard induction.
[Edited by john banks - 9/13/2002 11:15:42 AM]
Some reckon that HKS, Blitz and Pipercross inductions kits may be associated with a higher failure rate of the MY99/00 MAF sensors - others disagree. Some fail on standard induction.
[Edited by john banks - 9/13/2002 11:15:42 AM]
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K&N 57i seem to be the induction of choice on these year cars - I know of lots of people running them with no problems at all, me included - in fact, can't even remember hearing of a failure with one fitted.
However, the HKS isn't as reliable unfortunately, I know of a car losing 4 MAF's with the HKS fitted and others that have failed too. In fact, hasn't Trout just commented on his MY99 STi MAF being dead? He uses HKS........
One thing an induction does do though is lean the car out just before turbo spool up and can cause a flat spot, I run a TEK upgrade which compensates for this............
However, the HKS isn't as reliable unfortunately, I know of a car losing 4 MAF's with the HKS fitted and others that have failed too. In fact, hasn't Trout just commented on his MY99 STi MAF being dead? He uses HKS........
One thing an induction does do though is lean the car out just before turbo spool up and can cause a flat spot, I run a TEK upgrade which compensates for this............
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Yep - APS is the worst but AFAIK the others all do it to some degree just not as bad as the APS does.
I had the TEK anyway which is done for zorst and induction mods so I thought I may as well fit the K&N
I had the TEK anyway which is done for zorst and induction mods so I thought I may as well fit the K&N
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Yet another dnb mad idea:
Has anyone thought of using the older (alegedly more robust) MAF sensors on the newer cars?
OK, it will be a PITA to fit, and the output V/I characteristics may be off (this could be corrected by mapping or some clever analog electronics) V=IR is not a difficult concept... Neither is a hot wire volume flow sensor
Design once - sell many times
Has anyone thought of using the older (alegedly more robust) MAF sensors on the newer cars?
OK, it will be a PITA to fit, and the output V/I characteristics may be off (this could be corrected by mapping or some clever analog electronics) V=IR is not a difficult concept... Neither is a hot wire volume flow sensor
Design once - sell many times
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The earlier MAFs are in a different (smaller) inlet pipe. When remapping the ECU you can take any MAF voltage between 0 and 5.12V and assign it a load reference. Some MAFs output a pulsetrain instead so worth looking out for that.
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This thread is starting to worry me I have an HKS filter on my MY00 UK, even though I do have a TEK2 Ecu fitted by PE on the rollers I am worried about the MAF slowly dying without any signs and killing my engine !!
What are the chances of that happening and what precautions can I take to stop it.
Jake
What are the chances of that happening and what precautions can I take to stop it.
Jake
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So John in your opinion do induction kits actually have any benefit? Is it worth using one or are we better off with an ITG filter and standard airbox.
Cheers
Cheers
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Worth using - you have to with a front mount intercooler. For cars running below 300 BHP I would say not and I could not appreciate any difference beyond the noise. Some reckon that my car is held back by the standard induction - I'm going to test it separate from the front mount to see.
#13
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GGR will happily sell you an induction kit for the MY99/00 unless they have withdrawn it.
Maf can fail with any filter on it, vibration is the main culprit but contamination is close second, the filter will only gradually fail if it gets contaminated slowly and then it does not fail it just mis reads (which is serious)
APS CAK causes it to mis read badly but not fail.
Confirm sensor cartridge is available on its own so its an expense but not the disater it used to be. Interesting that the cartridge suddenly became available, probably because so many were failing under warranty which tells us something as with an induction kit warranty tends not to be honoured.
cheers
Bob
Maf can fail with any filter on it, vibration is the main culprit but contamination is close second, the filter will only gradually fail if it gets contaminated slowly and then it does not fail it just mis reads (which is serious)
APS CAK causes it to mis read badly but not fail.
Confirm sensor cartridge is available on its own so its an expense but not the disater it used to be. Interesting that the cartridge suddenly became available, probably because so many were failing under warranty which tells us something as with an induction kit warranty tends not to be honoured.
cheers
Bob
#15
Took my HKS induction kit - you would not believe how much cack there was in the induction pipe to the turbo.
Almost certianly responsible for the ground down blades on my original VF28 - filtration is appalling.
Now a pipercross which would seem to be far superior - also very cheap and if you have a Link it also replaces the MAF pipe.
And, yes, my MAF is buggered.
Trout
Almost certianly responsible for the ground down blades on my original VF28 - filtration is appalling.
Now a pipercross which would seem to be far superior - also very cheap and if you have a Link it also replaces the MAF pipe.
And, yes, my MAF is buggered.
Trout
#17
Heres my MAF experiences..
HKS filter- 3 failures
Blitz SUS- 1 failure
I found the standard airbox with resonator removed & aftermarket paper element worked best.On RR car gained 10bhp with blitz fitted, but lost 15 lb/ft torque.
First signs of a MAF contamination is hunting @ idle, simply remove MAF & clean thoroughly with aerosol brake cleaner.
Dave
HKS filter- 3 failures
Blitz SUS- 1 failure
I found the standard airbox with resonator removed & aftermarket paper element worked best.On RR car gained 10bhp with blitz fitted, but lost 15 lb/ft torque.
First signs of a MAF contamination is hunting @ idle, simply remove MAF & clean thoroughly with aerosol brake cleaner.
Dave
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