alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Looking at some more protection for the underside of my 98 UK car.
Bodyshop guy who did the respray suggested getting it on a ramp, steam cleaning, maybe some wheel acid, allow to dry, apply rust converter, then something else.
Waxoyl?
Lanoguard?
Or what?
TIA

ted bass

Heard a few people on here mention Dinitrol for underbody protection, never used it meself tho.

hedgecutter

iTrader: (5)

Not Waxoil. Terrible stuff if a hint of moisture or rust is left. Destroyed my truck.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the replies.
Would have thought more people would have had to do this.
Just shows how dead this forum is now🙁

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Waxoyl is not what it was
Lanoguard - no idea. But features very heavily on social media advertising

I've been using ACF-50 which is like a slightly thicker (and pink) version of WD40 and XCP rust blocker which is more like waxoyl. Both with mixed results as I think it needs re-application, but being greasy it attracts dirt, so hard to see if it's doing the job until you jet-wash it off.

Next time, I'm going to degrease it all again and Zinc spray everything - the galvanised coating on the Altea's exhaust is failing so as a test I've re-sprayed the whole system with ZG-90 cold galvanising paint before winter. Will see how it's coped with the salt/gritted roads when I get back underneath it in spring.

If successful, I'm doing everything with it (helps having a silver or black car as colours are limited ).

nicam49

Is it possible to get steam cleaning any more? Or is it just jet washing?.. Which leaves the underside sopping wet and will never dry in winter. If it were me, I'd get underneath and take a look for myself. There's that company that applies Dinitrol, but it just jet washes underneath 1st, a '98 car is going to be pretty rusty in places underneath and would probably need more than just steam cleaning - that's not going to remove rust - for that you'll need some elbow grease, a wire wheel on a drill wire brushes, and some rust convertor. I then painted with engine enamel and painted over that with a mix of thick oil (I used hypoid oil) and waxoyl. It's just firefighting really, to keep the dreaded Rustworm at bay. It helps that I've got a ss exhaust on mine.
If you haven't already checked, the top of the rear arches are a stealth rust trap and can be very expensive to fix. There's a double skin and if rust appears on the inside of the rear turrets then it might be too late to fix. You need to remove the back wheels and really examine way up high in the rear arches as far as your arm can reach, that's where you'll find any rot and rust. It's important to treat any asap and then underseal it.
Mines a MMY99, and I only just managed to save it after a vigilant mot tester noticed it and I managed to get it welded up.

ted bass

Dinitrol centres have the car for 3 or 4 days and dry the car out overnight in an oven i believe between each process, i got a quote a couple of yrs ago from my nearest one and prices started around the 400 quid mark depending on how much prep work is required.

johno01

what condition is the underneath of your car in? Surface rust etc?

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Bodyshop guy said it was "raw", but nothing structural.
He cut out and replaced rear arches, cills, bits in front of cills at front, parts of inner wing front.
MoT last week reported "everything sound".

Henrik

iTrader: (5)

I have applied both bilt hambers cavity wax + underbody wax (“Dynax”), and also some lanoguard.

Suspiciously, the bilt hamber smells a bit like the lanoguard, but not quite as strongly of sheep, which leads me to believe they share at least some ingredients (lanolin).

in terms of application, I think they are both easy, but the lanoguard in a spray bottle is probably slightly easier to apply onto big areas, and it goes on in a thicker layer (as compared to the BH aerosol), but I don’t know if this is good or bad.

The BH cavity wax is amazing to apply with the tube, but at least the lance lanoguard gave me was poor.. wax dribbling out rather than spraying a mist (though I understand they have changed the nozzle now, so maybe it’s better).

one thing to maybe consider is having a mask when you’re spraying the BH products… they made my throat tickle really badly and I was coughing when applying it (until I put on a mask…) don’t know if it his is because of the extra chemicals, or because better atomisation of the spray.


long term performance I don’t know, but I think it is at least better than nothing, and it is cheap and easy enough to re-apply every year.

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

I don't think they ever really existed as such. We've had Karcher HDS units which were often sold as "steam cleaners" over the past 20odd years and all they are is a conventional HD jetwasher pump coupled to a diesel fueled boiler with the option of a low flow lance nozzle.

When new, without scale and a clean burner nozzle it could get upto 80degrees on a good day. To get higher would need the so-called "steam nozzle" but even then they struggled, realistically they'd max out at about 60degrees by the time the water's gone through 15m of hose and depending on the feed water temperature..which of course is lower in winter.

Still better than cold water jetwashing as it does soften grease and will dry quicker. At home I just hook my jetwasher (Dewalt with a Anovi Reverberi pump) to the hot tap...does the same thing!

But yes getting it dry is an ****. Do have access to a spray booth, which was handy. But not an option at todays gas prices! Mildly heated garage with a dehumidifier is a good alternative (it's how I store my cars/motorbikes anyway).

hedgecutter

iTrader: (5)

I've used the range of Bilt Hamber products. It's a UK firm and very good support from the owner Peter Bilt. They also do rust killers, and all waxes contain inhibitors, but you need to do it every couple of years. It's also essential to remove as much as possible before treating, especially at the rear where the fuel filler neck and subframes and under arches collect all the crud. Like any job, preparation is 95% it, so if diy a heated garage or hot dry summer period is essential after maximum cleaning and rust removal.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

That last post reminded me mine had a complete new fuel filler system.

nicam49

Ah yes my MY99 had a new filler pipe too, around the time I had the rear arches rescued.

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

My Impreza had it applied from new and I think it's saved it, a patch came off where jacking point is and looks like new.

Maybe it's putting it on an older car.

Saying that my Dad uses it on classic car and no issues. But it is dry stored.

nicam49

Interestingly enough, Dinitrol seems to have distanced itself from these 'Treatment Centres', their website carries this statement which I'm sure wasn't there a few months ago...

​​​​​​Please note: DINITROL® UK does NOT operate or endorse any treatment centres or providers in the UK / Republic of Ireland.

So looks like it's DIY only.

Mind you, I've found this Rustbusters site....(sorry, can't seem to copy it as a hyperlink..)

https://www.rust.co.uk/product/cat/our-complete-rust-proofing-service-24

hedgecutter

iTrader: (5)

My 09 hatch fuel filler neck was well on the way when I caught it during my lockdown derustification, so they haven't improved.