Bugeye WRX shuddering whilst accelerating on right turn
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Bugeye WRX shuddering whilst accelerating on right turn
Hi all,
Need some help!
Symptoms are as follows:
Accelerating whilst turn right beyond ~50 degree turn of the wheel.
However no trouble on left turn or whilst coasting/non accelerating or driving slowly on right turn
CV assembly on right side recently replaced (4 months). Checked it all no excessive flex or movement.
Push checked bearing and no play at all.
Tried swapping front two wheels over and symptoms persist so not a wheel problem.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!! I am stumped as the symptoms kind of rule out bearing or CV or diff so I'm not sure!
Thanks in advance
Ps car is:
2000 GD Bugeye WRX, basically stock which a couple of Whiteline bushing replacements, anti-lift kit etc, nothing major.
Need some help!
Symptoms are as follows:
Accelerating whilst turn right beyond ~50 degree turn of the wheel.
However no trouble on left turn or whilst coasting/non accelerating or driving slowly on right turn
CV assembly on right side recently replaced (4 months). Checked it all no excessive flex or movement.
Push checked bearing and no play at all.
Tried swapping front two wheels over and symptoms persist so not a wheel problem.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!! I am stumped as the symptoms kind of rule out bearing or CV or diff so I'm not sure!
Thanks in advance
Ps car is:
2000 GD Bugeye WRX, basically stock which a couple of Whiteline bushing replacements, anti-lift kit etc, nothing major.
Last edited by hwill182; 27 April 2021 at 03:58 AM.
#3
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Feels like the whole car, but focused on the front right wheel, feels like driving over rasied pavement markers.
Anyway to test the strut mounts without taking them off. The one on the right side does seem pretty worn (see photo).
Anyway to test the strut mounts without taking them off. The one on the right side does seem pretty worn (see photo).
#4
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Strut mounts usually creak or grown on full lock, so mostly when you are maneuvering slowly.
I've have similar symptoms with wheel alignment being out. Excessive toe in/out. But can also be caused by misaligned camber throwing out the toe setting when cornering. Or wishbone bushes could be shot which won't effect static alignment but will dynamic (when the car is moving) alignment.
So yeah, first point of call would be an alignment set up if you can't identify anything physically at fault.
I've have similar symptoms with wheel alignment being out. Excessive toe in/out. But can also be caused by misaligned camber throwing out the toe setting when cornering. Or wishbone bushes could be shot which won't effect static alignment but will dynamic (when the car is moving) alignment.
So yeah, first point of call would be an alignment set up if you can't identify anything physically at fault.
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Hi all,
I have purchased new strut mounts, so will fit them and see if they help.
Doubt it is wishbone bushings as they were replaced ~1 year ago with whiteline bushings.
I have purchased new strut mounts, so will fit them and see if they help.
Doubt it is wishbone bushings as they were replaced ~1 year ago with whiteline bushings.
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#8
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Hi all! Replaced the mounts, old ones definitely had seen better days, however now when I drive the front right brake pad is hitting the inside of the wheel! I don't know if this is related but my guess would be I installed the strut mount the wrong way, however the mounts (kyb) didn't come with any instructions or markings. Anyone know how to find the correct direction to install them in?
Thanks all!
Thanks all!
#9
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There is no wrong way to fit AFAIK as the bearing is in the centre.
The calipers are mounted to the hub, so regardless of any change in position of the hub caused by the top mount/strut, the calipers will always be in the same position in relation to the hub and wheel. Without seeing the hub or knowing your exact steps, it's difficult to diagnose.
The calipers are mounted to the hub, so regardless of any change in position of the hub caused by the top mount/strut, the calipers will always be in the same position in relation to the hub and wheel. Without seeing the hub or knowing your exact steps, it's difficult to diagnose.
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